MK Sportscars USA Posted January 25 Author Posted January 25 46 minutes ago, MV8 said: Usually it is whatever they are connected to that fails and blows or damages these components while away from home. These things are easily accessible on the miata, but I admire your optimism. (11) 6mm allen head bolts to remove the bulkhead panel. All easily accessible. I am an optimist, but I've also never had one of these components fail in all my years of car ownership. Probably shouldn't say that out loud.... 1
JohnCh Posted January 25 Posted January 25 11 minutes ago, MK Sportscars USA said: Just checked.... 13 lbs of left over wire, plus probably another pound or two of stuff I've tossed. That's a big chunk of weight to jettison. 5 minutes ago, MK Sportscars USA said: I am an optimist, but I've also never had one of these components fail in all my years of car ownership. Probably shouldn't say that out loud.... Yeah, you just screwed yourself
MK Sportscars USA Posted February 17 Author Posted February 17 Been plugging away here! Received the chassis harness and ECU from across the pond and started getting everything wired. (MK harness, ME360 ECU and engine harness) This car will use the OEM steering controls from the miata - wipers, horn, lights etc. We are also using the MK gauge set for this car, which conveniently integrates indicators for high beams, blinkers, alternator failure, and oil pressure. We will have one stand alone indicator for the CEL. This also necessitated the implementation of a speed sensor on the rear axle. I tacked some small sections of flat bar on the inner axle stub shaft to provide the signal needed. They say you should glue them on, but that doesn't seem like a reasonable attachment method IMO. Added a real oil pressure sensor, additional water temp sensor, and a new bosch knock sensor. The OEM mazda clocks can be used if preferred, even with the aftermarket harnesses. We decided to reuse the hazard switch from the miata - as the double pole switch makes the job clean and simple with no parasitic draw. A single pole switch will leave the battery powered to the flasher, which doesn't draw much current - but 0 seems a lot better. The only wiring left at this point is the dashboard - which will have it's own harness so that it can easily be removed from the car should the need arise for future modifications. A few pics attached for your pleasure.... 5
MV8 Posted February 19 Posted February 19 The horn opening should point down so rain or water from a pressure washer is less likely to enter and ruin it or freeze.
MK Sportscars USA Posted Wednesday at 03:46 PM Author Posted Wednesday at 03:46 PM Lots of progress made on the car. Been going fairly smoothly - still waiting on an exhaust header from MK which has prevented finishing the bodywork - but it's finally in route! All electrical is finished, all gauges and sensors work. I briefly started the engine over the weekend, using a basemap for the ME360 ECU. No issues there fortunately. Body has been trimmed and dry fit - not too bad though, a small cutoff wheel and a bandfile make the job pretty simple. Interior panels are drilled for final assembly. Rear fenders and boot bin fitted. Fuel fill assembly completed. She's getting pretty close! Windshield and wipers / squirter will be the next step of the build. Any questions, let me know! 2
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