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Posted
46 minutes ago, MV8 said:

Usually it is whatever they are connected to that fails and blows or damages these components while away from home. These things are easily accessible on the miata, but I admire your optimism.

(11) 6mm allen head bolts to remove the bulkhead panel.  All easily accessible.  

I am an optimist, but I've also never had one of these components fail in all my years of car ownership.  Probably shouldn't say that out loud....

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, MK Sportscars USA said:

Just checked.... 13 lbs  of left over wire, plus probably another pound or two of stuff I've tossed.  

 

That's a big chunk of weight to jettison.

 

5 minutes ago, MK Sportscars USA said:

I am an optimist, but I've also never had one of these components fail in all my years of car ownership.  Probably shouldn't say that out loud....

 

Yeah, you just screwed yourself :D

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Been plugging away here!  

 

Received the chassis harness and ECU from across the pond and started getting everything wired.  (MK harness, ME360 ECU and engine harness)

This car will use the OEM steering controls from the miata - wipers, horn, lights etc.  

We are also using the MK gauge set for this car, which conveniently integrates indicators for high beams, blinkers, alternator failure, and oil pressure. We will have one stand alone indicator for the CEL.  

This also necessitated the implementation of a speed sensor on the rear axle.  I tacked some small sections of flat bar on the inner axle stub shaft to provide the signal needed.  They say you should glue them on, but that doesn't seem like a reasonable attachment method IMO.  

Added a real oil pressure sensor, additional water temp sensor, and a new bosch knock sensor.  

 

The OEM mazda clocks can be used if preferred, even with the aftermarket harnesses.  

 

We decided to reuse the hazard switch from the miata - as the double pole switch makes the job clean and simple with no parasitic draw.  A single pole switch will leave the battery powered to the flasher, which doesn't draw much current - but 0 seems a lot better. 

 

The only wiring left at this point is the dashboard - which will have it's own harness so that it can easily be removed from the car should the need arise for future modifications.  

 

A few pics attached for your pleasure....

 

 

 

 

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  • Like 5
Posted

The horn opening should point down so rain or water from a pressure washer is less likely to enter and ruin it or freeze.

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