Paint stripping off fiberglass

[IamScotticus]

Yes, as exciting as watching paint dry.

But for today, I am interested in removing paint off 60's Lotus plastic without damaging the original gelcoat.

No, I'm not going restore the gelcoat, I just need to get repairs done.

 

I have been searching for a safe stripper, if there is such a thing, and found Cooper's Strip Club Paint and Varnish stripper and rinse kit out of Kiwi land.

https://coopersstripclub.com/marine-lpp1/

Can anyone vouch for this product?  Or recommend another one?

[MV8]

Aquastrip is about a third of the price, available locally, and safe for gel coat.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Aqua-Strip-1-gal-Safe-Marine-Paint-and-Varnish-Remover-650G1/203112317

[IamScotticus]

Thanks, good to know.

 

I did buy a small quantity of Coopers taking advantage of free shipping and a bonus 50% more striper (don't ask).

 

The reason I did was to see about the specialty rinse.  It has waterless anti-rust properties I am looking for in a non- petroleum dry coating as an alternative to WD-40.

 

One takeaway from my stripper research is the old standard Aircraft Remover had been neutered by the EPA, removing the nice toxic stuff that made it so crinkly good.  If you still have any of the old formula,  conserve it.  

Edited December 29, 2024 by IamScotticus

[Christopher smith]

Just a tech note of caution---- A real gel coat applied over mold release on the fiberglass mold at the original factory is a thermosetting polyester, so generally more resistant to chemical strippers than most paints . 2 part paints are also thermosets as are the peroxide initiated polyesters used to build fiberglass parts and autobody fillers (2 part putties). However, be aware that thermoset polyesters do not resist strong alkaline conditions that have been used in hot tank strippers and also strippers ( the old toxic really effective paint strippers) that contain methylene chloride must be used with caution- read the label. Anyone using a stripper on an old fiberglass part may want to try just a little first on a less obvious part if there is one. If anyone has to remove paint that is of the newer 2 part ones ( the kind professionally applied with great caution to breathing hazard) good luck- not sure how that may be done.

[IamScotticus]

Yes, I generally wish to avoid all methylene chloride products.  The alternative strippers, according to what I can glean from the Tube demonstrations, appear to be a much lower odor and toxicity and work well.  This is important because I will be working in a shack attatched to the residence in which contains a very sensitive odor alarm that will scream at the first offending scent.

 

My other concern is reactivity with Bondo.  I don't want any existing fillers to dissolve.

[MV8]

There are some like the aquastrip that say they are safe for gelcoat. Short of that, the newer "safe" strippers would probably not damage polyester and a heat gun with a hard plastic scraper may get enough of it off to sand the rest.

[Christopher smith]

The "Bondo", either the actual brand products made just outside Atlanta or their competitors' body filler products are all thermoset polyester/styrene monomer based loaded with talc and other fillers. Styrene monomer is the smell you will notice using body filler or making fiberglass parts. The styrene is not a solvent but rather an integral component when cured with peroxide paste or liquid hardener( common in a few countries) and these are much more resistant to attack by solvents than the older paints and primers. I would be concerned if a product called spot putty or lacquer putty was used on top of any patches of "bondo" prior to paint application to cover very minor defects. It is a composition quite like paint but with much lower thinner % and the acrylic or nitrocellulose polymer would be attacked by solvents in the paint stripper. If spot putty is removed by stripper or sanding you will see pinholes or minute scratches that must be covered again when refinishing to get that ultra smooth glossy finish you will want. So several layers of primer (with intermittent sanding) could be needed. Sorry to be so lengthy but all this was critical  for a top quality final finish as I worked closely with the chemists in virtually all major body filler companies around the world 1975 to 2005.

[IamScotticus]

@Christopher smithSir, don't apologize for anything!

You are an official subject matter guru!

I'm taking notes!

Edited December 30, 2024 by IamScotticus