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WCM S2K Ultralite Wheel and Tire Recommendations?


powerbookguy

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I got mine from edgeracing but the site isn't opening for me right now.

 

Their 5zigen but the exact ones I got may be discontinued but these look the same:

 

http://www.5zigenusa.com/english/products/wheel/proracer/fn01rchot.html

 

thanks for the helpful replies everyone.

 

i've come across these wheels in my searches as well. they look fine but illustrate the problem i have been running into most everywhere i look: finding a staggered set that comes in sizes that will fit the car.

 

On the 5 Zigens, there is a 5/100 setup in 17x8, but the 17x9 comes only in 5/114. i've had this same issue with most of the enkeis i've come across as well. the team dynamics do come in the proper sizes and look fantastic but i was hoping for something lighter than 20 lbs: http://www.rimstock.co.uk/rimstockuk/wheelsmain.php?name=Pro%20Race%201.2

 

just to be sure, based on the guidance i've received here i am looking at:

 

17" front 8" wide 5/100 35mm

17" rear 9" wide 5/100 43mm

 

thanks.

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17x9 wheels below 20lbs are going to be very expensive. There are a few out there like Rays or Volks Engineering they are in the 18lb range but are close to 1k per wheel. Team Dynamics wheels are very nice and are a good price. Maybe even better now with the exchange rate. They are made in the UK. I have the number for the importer in CA he is easy to deal with. He might have to order them if he doesnt have the size or color you want it typically takes 6 weeks.

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17x9 wheels below 20lbs are going to be very expensive. There are a few out there like Rays or Volks Engineering they are in the 18lb range but are close to 1k per wheel. Team Dynamics wheels are very nice and are a good price. Maybe even better now with the exchange rate. They are made in the UK. I have the number for the importer in CA he is easy to deal with. He might have to order them if he doesnt have the size or color you want it typically takes 6 weeks.

 

thanks for the insight. i would appreciate the importer contact info. are the offsets shown below correct?

 

17" front 8" wide 5/100 35mm

17" rear 9" wide 5/100 43mm

 

should i be looking to get the wheels bored for hubcentric mounting without centering rings?

 

thanks.

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I think they make hubcentric rings for using with spacers (have that on my G35)... my rims are just bolted up. I have a different Suburu STI rear-end so your best to wait for an answer from Loren or one of the other guys on bolt pattern.

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I think they make hubcentric rings for using with spacers (have that on my G35)... my rims are just bolted up. I have a different Suburu STI rear-end so your best to wait for an answer from Loren or one of the other guys on bolt pattern.

 

i know the bolt pattern is 5/100 as i measured it. just need to confirm the offsets.

 

thank you.

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Those are the correct sizes and offsets. We also are using the STI so I am unsure if the hub centric size on the standard rear end. Kevin had no issues fitting the rear with the standard center bore, but Kevin had to have the front wheels bored out more. The front wheel had the tapered front hub so be carful with your measurements. You most likely only need the inside portion of the wheel machined if at all. The importer for the US is 909 947 0114.

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Those are the correct sizes and offsets. We also are using the STI so I am unsure if the hub centric size on the standard rear end. Kevin had no issues fitting the rear with the standard center bore, but Kevin had to have the front wheels bored out more. The front wheel had the tapered front hub so be carful with your measurements. You most likely only need the inside portion of the wheel machined if at all. The importer for the US is 909 947 0114.

 

thanks again for all the helpful info, i'd be lost without you guys.

 

is there anyway to tell if the rear end is from the STI? seller told me the differential had been changed for better acceleration and i was given the original differential as well. they look pretty similar from the outside though i have not gone over them that closely.

 

thank you.

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I am pretty sure you still have the R160. The R180 is bigger. He probably just switched diffs with lower gear to help acceleration. There are 3:70, 3:90, 4:11, 4:56 units available. The 4:11 and 4:56 do give alot more grunt out of the hole. It will raise you cruising rpm by about 1k rpm but it isnt bad with the high reving Honda

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I am pretty sure you still have the R160. The R180 is bigger. He probably just switched diffs with lower gear to help acceleration. There are 3:70, 3:90, 4:11, 4:56 units available. The 4:11 and 4:56 do give alot more grunt out of the hole. It will raise you cruising rpm by about 1k rpm but it isnt bad with the high reving Honda

 

thanks. i should be able to figure out which one it is based on a comparison of a given gear, rpm and speed as compared to stock, right?

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  • 3 weeks later...

after spending far too much time researching wheel sizes and availability for the ultralite i am tentatively planning on custom made bogart racing 17x8 fronts with falken RT615 225s and 17x10 rears with falken RT615 275s. i currently have a set of 16x10 and 16x12 bogart road race wheels and while not cheap they are solidly made and lightweight.

 

the question i have regards backspace, in particular the clearance from the inboard wheel lip edge to the bicycle fender support up front and from the inboard wheel lip edge to the chassis skin in the back.

 

the current 16x10 bogart wheel clears the calipers front and back just fine but it seems too far outboard in the rear -- there is approximately 2" of space between the wheel lip and the chassis. this same wheel mounted up front has approximately 1" of space between the wheel lip and bicycle fender support, which to me seems just about right.

 

can others chime in on what inboard clearances their wheel setup has front and back so i can make a informed decision as to backspace?

 

i would appreciate any other feedback about my proposed setup as well, especially the advisability of using a 17x8 and 17x10 staggered setup.

 

TIA.

Edited by powerbookguy
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I have the same rear tires but with 9 inch rims (and they fit nice on the rim)...

 

By me eyeballing the tire with tape measure, it's about 10 to 10.25 inches total sidewall to sidewall width (not tread width); . The fender is 12 inches wide and there looks to be over an inch of room on the inside. You'd need an inch (25 millimeters) of additional backspace to keep the rim flush with the outside fender lip... as mine is in the pics.

 

With all that being said, due to the cost of rims and any tire movement due to suspension travel, I'd figure out a way to make sure before purchasing... though it would likely be ok, I'd hate to steer you wrong.

 

I've seen wider rims (slicks) on S2Ks but it's been 15inch diameter and they've stuck out. I know Kevin has ran 17inch slicks but don't know how wide the rims were.

 

Just remember it'll really be for looks as our cars don't need that much rubber unless supercharged... good luck!

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A simple and effective way to do this, is to determine your overall wheel and tire diameter.

lets say 20". Buy a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum, drill a small hole in the middle, for your center reference and draw a 20" circle around it (then cut it out). Layout your bolt pattern (centered of course) drill it. Now bolt it on and measure away. This will allow you to move your suspension through it full travel and take measurements though the entire range. This may seem a little overkill, but it sure beats spending a butt load of money on wheels that do not fit like you want them to.

 

I have been very satisfied with the strength and performance of the Team dynamic wheels I

embezzled from WestTex..... Price was on the money also...

 

http://www.usa7s.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=231&stc=1&d=1240971780

 

Cheers

7evin

oloa-2008-02sr0070 (Medium).jpg

Edited by 7evin
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