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I need someone to finish my Megabusa engine wiring...


Hank

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The local instrument tech working on my Megabusa wiring is swamped with work and his wife had a baby last week. I don't think he'll ever finish it.

 

I'm willing to trailer my car somewhere in the Gulf Coast area to get the wiring harness properly sorted. Part of the wiring harness needs to be extended to allow the ECU to be mounted in the passenger side footwell. The only add-ons from the factory Hayabusa & Westfield harnesses are a Flaming River safety/battery kill switch and a GI Pro gear indicator/timing retard eliminator.

 

Let me know if anyone is recommended to do the job.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Hank

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Well, it is partly my fault. I could have simply sent the loom to Westfield for modification. However, Westfield does not use the factory dash for anything. I want to use the factory Hayabusa dash for the speedometer and tachometer. So, it is somewhat hybrid than what others do. Some have done it in the past, but they are all in Europe.

 

To add to my dilemma, no one in my area works on custom wiring harnesses. The street rod crew order Painless wiring kits and the motorcycle racers remove and install factory wiring harnesses in their drag bikes. My situation is definitely unique in that part of the harness needs to be extended so that the ECU can fit in the passenger footwell on a hinged plate that pivots down from the Scuttle behind the dashboard.

 

 

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Hank,

 

Why don’t’ you tackle this yourself? If you are just extending the loom and tapping in a few components it isn’t that hard. I built the engine loom for my Emerald with no prior experience and it is about 4 years old and still going strong (I should know better than to tempt fate by writing that :banghead: ). I’m sure there are folks here who can steer you through the process.

 

-John

 

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I really wish I could but I'm up to my eyeballs in website work right now and I want the car finished at the same time. From the outside looking in it seems crazy, but I can't find the time to go in the garage and finish it.

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David,

 

Sure, there were "tests" along the way, but this car isn't exactly going to build itself. That's the fun in purchasing a kit car. If everything was slide tab "A" into slob "B" it wouldn't be fun, right?

 

Keep in mind I'm customizing the car as I go. The paddle shift setup is on its way from Britain right now. The reverse box is getting ripped out before the first mile is put on the chassis. In its place will be an alternative that I will post about after completion.

 

It's been fun up until a month ago. Now I want it done. The wiring kid had it for a month and I think he spent 3 hours on it.

 

 

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Hank,

Myself, the older I get, the more I like slot A into B, then change it later.

If you had built your car as per stock would it have been a lot easier? are your [problems self inflicted you think?

I did not study your whole build site but from what I saw, it seemed to me like a hell of a lot of work for you to correct many basic assembly faults that should have been corrected by the factory.; or at the very least helped you out a bit more.

By the way, do you have a reverse gear, is that a problem if you do not and need to register the car; and finally ,what was it that drew you to the bike engined 7, I mean if the reg 7 is on the edge, bike engined 7's are jumping off the cliff.:)

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David,

 

The only hiccups I had along the way were as follows:

1. Missing brake master cylinder fittings (2)

2. Steering shaft was for a fixed steering wheel and I specifically ordered a detachable steering wheel mount

3. Dry Sump tank fitting - I only used the Westfield dry sump tank. I used the SBD dry sump system. I knew the revisions required ahead of time.

4. Roll cage side mounts. Sure I could have removed the lower body section to mount the inner roll cage mounts, but I chose not to.

 

I agree with your statement that if I had wanted the Megabusa completely stock it would have been completed a long time ago. The bulk of the build took only 3 weeks. I waited on the wheels for 3 months. Other bits took additional time (brake fittings, shoulder harness spacers).

 

I will leave the reverse box in for certifying the car for road use by the State Police. They do not require me to drive it. I was told on the phone if it passes inspection on my trailer that I would be issued a registration shortly thereafter. After the registration is printed and I get an inspection tag I will drop the car off to get the reverse box removed. Then I'll update my website with what I replaced it with. :D

 

What brought me to get a Megabusa? I like challenges. I like power-to-weight ratios. I love the sound of motorcycle engines over blatty 4 cylinders. Now turbo 4 cylinders, that's a different story. I might turbo the Megabusa and have the best of both worlds. Of course the reliability might be thrown out the window.

 

Hank

 

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Hank----I did the same thing to my hayabusa turbo wiring (Westfield of course). I placed the ECU under the passenger area. Yes, you need to extend the wires to reach the projected area.

 

Took me night and day to accomplish the job. Buy a couple of 18ga wires (diff colors) & bunch of butt connectors. The first step I did was to unwrapped the Busa stock harness. Identify which wire or sensor wires that needs to be extended. You have do it carefully and accurately. Never cut more than two wires. "Cut, extend, solder & label" You will make it, its just tidious.

IMG_0965.jpg

Image043.jpg

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Hank,

 

I turbo'ed my Blackbird BEC 4 years ago; I only street drive and have no reliability issues so far. I have a Quaife reverse box which has held up so far (~18k miles total, ~8k with the turbo) although I don't like the amount of lash it adds to the drive train. I'll be interested to see your reverse solution when you finish.

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