Zetec (1999) and the ODB II connector?

[SevenHeaven]

My Caterham Zetec, developed a skip (or not firing at all on one) the other morning. Perhaps a bit damp in the storage shed, (but no amount of warming or drying it out seems to help).

In any case, took to local shop for a diagnosis on the computer... BUT it does NOT seem to conform to ODB II.. connection...

 

Can anyone tell me what might be the connector, used, is the wiring harness non standard?

Is there some trick to this, or is this something most shops should know?

 

thanks

[catracer]

7heaven.

 

I looked through the photos that you have posted of your car. It looks as if it's a standard Caterham USA Zetec engine package. If so it should be using the stock Ford ECU (under the passenger foot well) and OBD2 should be functional.

 

The connector should be in the bundle above the steering column. 3/4" x 2" and pretty hard to miss. They are all standard with OBD.

 

If your shop was able to actully plug in their scanner, but could not access stored data, then check for a wire near (and hooked to) the battery positive terminal. There should be a small single fuseholder with a 0.3 amp fuse installed. That powers the memory of the ecu. If it's not installed, it should be. It maintains modified maps of timing and fueling (adaptive ecu). But.....Your shop should have been able to get realtime data with the car running.....

 

Also....Often, it's hard to "feel" for the sparkplug boots engaging the top of the plug in these cars. They can feel like they are home, but end up askew in the sparkplug well with the result of a single cylinder out all the time. If you have changed plugs recently, you may want to take a look at that. It's happened here more than a few times.....

 

Hope that helps....btw, nice looking 7.

 

Chip

[SevenHeaven]

Here is what I think is the ODB II connector...

My shop says his computer will not plug into this???

 

He's been doing this for almost 30 years, but I have to tell you, he was a little upset (disturbed) by seeing a little Contour engine, in that "foreign car" as he called it.

In any case he tried connecting his computer and said it would not plug in...

 

does this connector, look right?

 

thanks

-geoff

[pksurveyor]

It looks like the same one I have on my cars. Don' t be surprised that you may get a bunch of error codes. One of the codes on my 03 is due to factthat the engine was originally configured for an automatic transmission and now the car has a 5 speed.

[catracer]

16 pin connector. That's it.

[SevenHeaven]

Thanks Chip and others.

Why do you suppose my ford dealer is saying he can't plug that connector to his computer?

He said it physically does not fit!

 

Hmmm

 

I will try another today...

 

thanks all

[SevenHeaven]

Ok thanks every one. The ODB II connector was FINE, it fit at the second SHOP, perfectly ( I suspect the first shop just didn't like that 'foreign car')

Ultimately the problem was solved by simply replacing the plugs and wires. These wires have a LONG bakelite tube that goes down in the spark plug well, and two of these were visibly wet with water droplets, its been raining here for two weeks and even though in a garage with a breathable cover etc. It was just condensation in there (I suppose)... In any case I just replaced the wires, and the plugs.. AND PERFECTION...

There certainly could have been a crack too, in the bakelite? But nothing like new dry wires to clean things up.

 

I have one problem now, and that is it idle's at about 1500 1600 rpm... How do i calm it down..

 

thanks

-geoff

[11Budlite]

  SevenHeaven said:

.

 

I have one problem now, and that is it idle's at about 1500 1600 rpm... How do i calm it down..

 

thanks

-geoff

 

There should be an idle adjustment screw on the throttle body, I would check that first. Someone could have compensated for the plugs/wires going bad by bumping up the idle a bit.

[SevenHeaven]

  11Budlite said:

There should be an idle adjustment screw on the throttle body, I would check that first. Someone could have compensated for the plugs/wires going bad by bumping up the idle a bit.

 

Ok, I don't see it. Here are a couple pictures... thanks

Edited August 1, 2009 by SevenHeaven

[MHKflyer52]

You could also have a vacume leak that will also cause the engine to run a little higher RPM at idel so look for a vacume leak.

[11Budlite]

Geoff - Good advice by Martin to check for a vacuum leak. I use a can of carb cleaner and spray around the TB/intake area and listen for a change in rpm. Pay particular attention to two areas at the lower part of the intake manifold (closest to the block) where I believe the IACV and EGR valve bosses are blocked off in the typical se7en installation. The second picture shows the two plugged off areas on my manifold.

 

The following picture is from my '96 Ford Contour ZX1 set-up. The idle adjustment screw is in the threaded boss with the orange sealer/locktite. I would think your set-up should be similar.

[SevenHeaven]

Can't quite tell where those parts are ON YOUR photo.

Can't see where in relation to entire intake...

 

But here is picture of mine, with arrows pointing to what I'm guessing is the equivalent???

 

Ok so I did spray cleaner in there, and yes the engine bogged down a bit, (but it should no?). I did not detect any leaks..

 

I can see the idle on mine is just like yours. Seems odd that you have to remove the throttle bracket screw to get at it? Is that correct?

 

thanks much

[11Budlite]

Geoff - On my intake, I have three ports in the same location that you have (2) arrows to in your picture, two of which are capped off and the third one has a hose that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. That is definitely not the same as the two areas that were in my previous photo. I've taken another photo from the rear of the intake to show the location of the IACV and EGR bosses that are plugged. This photo should show it more clearly.

 

If you spray carb cleaner in the throttle body, yes it will bog down some. What you want to do is spray it around the intake manifold and gaskets, basically anywhere downstream from the butterfly that would have vacuum. If there's a leak anywhere the engine should smooth out and the rpm should change. You have to make sure that all open ports that are not used are plugged and that any gaskets are sealing properly.

 

You should also check that the accelerator cable is not hanging up anywhere near the pedal or the throttle body.

 

If you can't find anything else causing the high idle then you can remove the throttle bracket upper torx bolt and adjust the idle speed. The way I understand it, you usually only have to set the idle once on a FI car and the IACV should fine tune from there. But since on a Zetec Seven installation the IACV is removed, that ability is no longer there. When I was running the stock FI setup, I remember the idle was really low when cold and only got up to the normal 800-900 rpm once it warmed up.

[pksurveyor]

I have to increase the idle speed to about 1000 rpm (if you trust the Caterham tech) on my Zetec because it is too low and stalls when cold.

[catracer]

Hmm, May want to look at the idle air valve also (think it's still in place in your car). I've seen them hang open on occasion (trash inside) . But agree that a vac leak somewhere is the the most probable.

 

You do have to remove the throttle body to adjust idle screw, and by doing so, void you new FORD warranty!. If the sealant paint is tampered, it will key you that somebody did this But its' also possible to change throttle plate position by:

1: slight bend in the plate that secures the end of the throttle cable (where the nylon wedge secures the cable housing)

2: bend in the idle stop. (the metal part that contacts the sealed idle screw below the throttle body)

 

Removing the throttle cable totally will tell you if there is a cable/linkage problem. It's a simple matter. The white nylon wedge is removed allowing the cable to slide through the upper slot in the securing bracket. Then open the throttle manually (car not running of course!) and slide the cable end from it's bore on the bell crank. (did that make any sense?)....start up and see it the idle is lower. You may be able to learn something with the car running, by rotating, with your hand, the throttle bellcrank in reverse. If it moves a bit and the engine slow, something in linkage/cable/accel pedal may be amiss. The fun part....while your at it, with the car OFF, check full throttle by having someone in the car holding the accel pedal to the floor and look at the throttle plate position...it should be....well, wide open....if not you have just found the cheapest horsepower ever. And you would be suprised how often this is never even considered, or examined....

 

It's really important, in the stock condition, to NOT modify the idle externally. The stock position provides the base voltage reference in the Throttle Position Sensor that tells the computer that car is at idle. In the idle position, drastic changes in ignition timing and fueling occur (compared to normal driving). These are non-linear. In other words, a very slight rotational deviation from the stock TPS position will tell the car that it is trying to accelerate. Ignition advances (usually a lot) and injectors stay open longer.

 

If every thing is working well, over several start/stop cycles the stock ecu will tend to adapt to variance in mechanical and operating conditions but only within it's pre-programmed limits.

 

Big cams with the stock ecu can create the issue you see. They may create a situation beyond the ecu's ability to adjust (since it is mandated by Big Brother to keep the fleet average MPG at a sub-regulatory level). Often when cams go in, the idle goes to hell and the PO compensates with one of the above "fixes" so the car does not stall at every stop sign. There is no simple fix here except live with it, put in stock cams or replace the ecu with aftermarket and develop a new calibration for the engine.

 

2 ?'s....is that 0.3 amp fuse in place (ECU memory)?...and do you have any history of any modifications on this car?

 

Chip