11Budlite

I just wanted to update this thread for another option that might work well for our little cars. My son recently sold his 16' box trailer and picked up a SnoPro Hybrid Lowpro snowmobile trailer. We just came back from a long weekend at Club in NH and it looks like an interesting option in the 7.5 x 16' size. It's a dual #2200 axle enclosed trailer that's lighter than their 7 x 16' single axle trailer (#3500 axle). He outfitted it with e-track, a fold-down cot, and was able to load and fit his Exocet without issue. A Seven would fit even easier and my Lola would fit as well. It does have a lower roof so you have to take that into account. He did say it was much easier to tow behind his Lexus SUV although I don't know what the MPG improvement was. He really liked the front hatch opening for utility/usability, and he had no leaks after having rain on Thursday night and during Friday's track sessions. I'm going to let him get a little more experience with his to see if there are any drawbacks that I haven't considered, but I could see myself getting one in addition to my open trailer. Here are some of the important specs of the 7.5 x 16' version: GVWR: 4400# Curb Weight: 1390# Payload: 3010# Axles: (2) - 2200# with brakes Rear Door Opening: 82" W x 62" H Rear Door Capacity: 1500# (I'm assuming this could be improved with a little bit of work) https://www.cargoprotrailers.com/snopro/enclosed-hybrid-lowpro-snow-trailers

A yoga mat is a lot thinner than a wrestling mat but could be similar material. It's been over 50 years since I've been on one, but IIRC a wrestling mat was over an inch thick where most yoga mats seem to be around 5mm thick.

I don't want to make a big deal about this, but at the tracks I frequent in the Northeast there are curbs you can use to be quicker and curbs that you should avoid. I've brushed up against this curb many times, but Monday was the first time I went up on top of the curb. The vibration was very surprising and was enough to trip my inertia switch, as well as send my LF cycle wing into the woods! At the 14:45 mark of this video they explain the curb I ran over and what can happen if you're not careful.

I did get a point-by on the downhill so I was off my preferred line. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! Thanks, you too Steve!

Thanks for the replies, that gives me a couple ideas to think about.

I did a track day on Monday at LRP and had my first real issue with the Caterham. I was tracking out onto the main straight after the downhill and ran onto the curbing/rumble strips on the left side, when my LF cycle wing decided to take flight and the car lost power. I'm sure I was confused with both issues happening at the same time, but it didn't occur to me that it could be the inertia switch until I was towed back into the pits. To be fair I stayed on the curbing longer than necessary, but I was surprised that it tripped the inertia switch. A couple questions. 1: Has anybody else had an issue with the inertia switch being tripped when on track? 2: Has anybody moved the inertia switch to the inside of the firewall where it could be reset from the driver's seat?

I've seen it done but not sure how they were mounted, probably just a couple of button-head screws with washers/nuts. If it's extended low enough I'm sure it would make a big difference. I agree with KnifeySpoony though, put PPF on the side panels. I also put it on the forward section of the rear fenders before I installed the rock guards. I had that done on my 310 and I can't imagine the damage to the paint in those areas without it.

Thanks!

What is the width between the fender supports?

Unless it's been modified/upgraded it should be a single Stromberg carb in a 1500 Spitfire. All my former British sports cars had SU's, but I think the Stromberg's were used because they were easier to pass emissions. As well as your normal ignition/fuel supply checks, maybe take the dashpot off and check that the rubber diaphragm isn't damaged.

Our little group will be heading up to Canaan on Friday afternoon for Saturday's HPDE on 5/30. Our friend Tom will have his VanDieman sports racer there and should be very quick as he continues to get it sorted. Canaan is a great little track to learn on and is always fun in a Seven. Ride-alongs will be available, hope to see some other Sevens there!

Really interesting video on Keith Tanner's Locost build.

It would be cool if it was someone on here, but it could be a Rugby plate too.

It's hard to tell, but the first photo looks like it has lowered floors.

New listing on BaT: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1966-lotus-super-seven/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Disambiguation_Update

I wish this was for sale last year when I was looking for a Duratec-powered track car. Really nice-looking CSR, good luck with the sale!

Sorry to hear that Charlie, hope to see you at another event this year.

I'll be at Palmer on Saturday 5/16 driving my Caterham. Our little group will be driving a turbo-Exocet, a Van Dieman sports racer, a K-powered BRZ, and my Cat. Rides will be available in the Exocet and Caterham in case anyone wants to get a taste of the track. You just have to sign a waiver and have a helmet. Palmer is a fun track, hope to see some other Sevens there! MassTuning TrackFest (May 16, 2026)

I just found another folder with photos of a Birkin starter. Not sure how I missed this before.

I don't know where the starter came from in my old Birkin, but this is a photo of the setup I had. The engine was from a '96 Contour and the gearbox was a T9 with the stock Birkin bellhousing operated with the slave cylinder mounted on the top of the gearbox cover. I'd be surprised if the bellhousing was the same between the Birkin and the Caterham because I believe the Birkin used the short input shaft, and the Caterham used the long input shaft on the gearbox. I know when I ordered the close ratio gearkit from BGH I had to tell him which input shaft I had. I guess yours could be different though. Is there a P/N on your starter?

I always wondered why you would need a quicker than standard rack. As a non-autocrosser that makes perfect sense.

That's to hook up to a manifold vacuum line/fitting to automatically adjust fuel pressure by throttle opening (manifold vacuum). In general terms, high vacuum @ idle = lower FP, low vacuum = higher FP. Not typically used on our setups. I put a cap on mine just to keep any potential debris out.

It looks like the same FPR I ran in my fuel injected Birkin. I think mine was an Aeromotive.