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Grant Vehicle Security System 2001


solder_guy

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Umm .. Good Advice? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/yesnod.gif

 

WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO OPERATE VEHICLE WITHOUT STEERING WHEEL.

 

WARNING: NEVER REMOVE STEERING WHEEL WHILE VEHICLE IS MOVING.

 

The above is the text of a sticker on the Grant Vehicle Security System 2001. I just peeled it off! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif

 

Rob Mitchell

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finished wiring up my Grant Vehicle Security System 2001 yesterday.

 

Because I had some connection problems I had to do some troubleshooting to get it right.

 

First of all my Rotus came with a horn pin in place .. but I was not satisfied with it as the wire just clipped on the tip behind the dash. So I went to the junkyard and got a horn pin out of a mid '80s Corolla. The wire screws on to the tip which is much more secure. So I insulated it with shrink wrap insulation and secured it in place with the insulating cap which Rotus had supplied. This spring-loaded pin and insulator was epoxy glued into a hole in the dash adjacent to the steering spindle.

 

 

Second: I installed Grant kit # 3593 Standard Installation/Horn Kit. My Rotus steering spindle is standard Toyota (verified by comparing fit to several '80s cars in the junkyard). This kit is required to allow for the three bolt Grant Wheels to work with Toyota. I actually installed this adapter twice (and removed it once **) to make sure that the horn pin was at the proper height to make contact with the copper conductive horn disc on its back. The kit comes with two black covers. I chose the deeper of the two to cover everything up to the dash.

 

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070309_121419_Grant.jpg

 

 

Third: I installed the base of the Grant Security System. I bought this used off eBay and I quickly determined that the lock was jammed! I eventually took it to a locksmith who removed the lock. Not a problem as Grant shipped me a new one and two new keys for only $10. (Grant Deadlock part # 10813-00-01) I made a trip to the hardware store to get some allen bolts to bolt this properly in place to the above mentioned adapter. It has two wires: the red one connects to the wire of the spindle adapter; the black wire was wired to a bolt for ground.

 

Hub and Key:

 

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070404_044430_hubkey.jpg

 

 

Fourth: I got my Grant Steering wheel (Formula GT Signature 13") off eBay also. Used .. but in great condition. I needed to use the Signature Adapter which comes included with the Security System. All this bolts together with the wheel side of the quick release mechanism.

 

Grant Signature F1 Wheel:

 

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070404_043836_wheel.jpg

 

But .. I had a problem when I mounted the Steering Wheel to the hub, I lost connection for the horn! After some time I realized that the 2 conductor pin which plugs into the hub was loose and there was a break in one of the wires!! Grant was no help .. stating that I need a new Security System. Their new two conductor system uses two flat contacts .. not a pin used on earlier systems. Problem with the pin is that it could break off!

 

So finally I pried the old pin and wires out. I had purchased a similar pin from a local electronics store some time ago and I was able to fit it into the hole very easily! So I soldered the two horn wires to it .. pulled out the epoxy and secured everything properly in place. Problem solved .. like new!

 

Back of wheel with two connector pin (if it breaks off .. no horn!):

 

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070404_044733_wheelback.jpg

 

 

Fifth: I had a problem in that the existing Rotus/Toyota steering spindle is not grounded. So after fiddling with it, I decided to wrap a piece of braided wire (NAPA item 770-6119) around the spindle shaft twice near where my knees are when sitting in the car. This wire is connected to two bolts which secure a suppport union holding the spindle shaft in place. One terminal fit the bolts perfectly. I then trimmed to length and fit another terminal for the other bolt. I sanded the paint off the shaft to make a good connection. I lubed it with electrical grease to keep it from rusting. Problem solved.

 

 

Sixth: Because this is a single horn pin system, when I push on the horn button the horn pin wire is grounded. Thus a relay is required to activat

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  • 2 weeks later...

3 i think. and no ingrated horn. maybe i'll get a bolt to bolt distance measure later this week.

 

 

 

Grant is 3 bolt.

 

 

 

and I have a Formula 1 Signature Grant wheel with horn! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif

 

 

 

Rob Mitchell

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  • 3 weeks later...

I bought a new ground strap (braided wire) to establish a good ground around the steering shaft. NAPA item 770-6119.

 

 

 

I wrapped it twice around the steering shaft at the bolt-on suppport union which is situated at my knees when sitting in my Rotus.

 

 

 

One terminal fit the bolts perfectly. I then trimmed to length and fit another terminal for the other bolt.

 

 

 

This is a perfect ground for the horn circuit for the Grant Vehicle Security System 2001.

 

 

 

Rob

 

 

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Umm .. Good Advice? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/yesnod.gif

 

 

 

WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO OPERATE VEHICLE WITHOUT STEERING WHEEL.

 

 

 

WARNING: NEVER REMOVE STEERING WHEEL WHILE VEHICLE IS MOVING.

 

 

 

Rob Mitchell

 

 

 

 

Somebody who will not be named lost the key for his Birkin while on a trip and had somebody drive him home to pick up the spare key. For safety reasons he took the steering wheel with him. When he returned to the car with the spare key he found that he left the steering wheel at home. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif

 

 

 

Since he really did not want to make another round trip he drove his Seven home (a few miles) holding on to the big center knob that holds the Birkin removable steering wheel. He said, once the car got moving it was not too difficult.

 

 

 

I did not see it but it sounded credible. Obviously that would be more difficult with the removable wheel that has only the spline on the column.

 

 

 

So, maybe good advice but not entirely mandatory http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif

 

 

 

Gert

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   Obviously that would be more difficult with the removable wheel that has only the spline on the column.

 

 

 

Removable steering wheel:

 

http://www.sz-wholesale.com/uploadFiles/060819110906s.jpg

 

 

 

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif

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6" Vicegrips work better and are safer when in a "pinch".

 

 

 

Not that I would have ever needed to due such a thing (DUH) but they also work well for clamping a brake line when broken if it ever happens when away from home.

 

Experance somehow has a way of solving these small problems and usually make for some good laughs at a later time.

 

 

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... he drove his Seven home (a few miles) holding on to the big center knob that holds the Birkin removable steering wheel. He said, once the car got moving it was not too difficult.

 

This is true! I can with some effort turn the front wheels by hand using only the Grant Security Hub while the car is not moving. (A heavier vehicle would be more difficult.) So as with any security system .. it is only a deterent. And it makes it alot easier to get in & out of the car.

 

Someone said, "Locks are for keeping honest people out."

 

Rob

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See third post for all pics integrated into installation writeup.

 

 

 

Green wire hanging below the wheel is from the horn pin. When the horn button is pushed, the green wire is grounded. It is now wired to the horn relay to complete the horn circuit function.

 

 

 

My Grant Signature F1 Wheel with Grant Vehicle Security System 2001 and working horn circuit setup:

 

 

 

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070404_043836_wheel.jpg

 

 

 

Rob Mitchell

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  • 5 months later...

I've been having trouble with the horn working reliably through the Grant Security System that I have. It is the old design with a 1/16" pin which protrudes and can bend! (see above blurry pics) So I finally got fed up .. and got the newer design of the Grant Security off eBay .. and it is much much better --- It has two tiny button conductors in each of the two connecting parts. So now the horn works every time!

 

I'll put the old Grant System up on eBay soon for people who do not care about the horn function.

 

The older system has a lever that says "RELEASE" in white. Then newer design has a lever that says "PUSH" in red.

 

Rob

 

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1901390003_grant security.jpg

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Glad to hear there were no problems with the new hub, and that now you sound the (nice and loud) horns whenever you want :]

 

Yeah .. the new Grant parts bolted right in place .. with minimal effort. I was at the Tashtanov's shop again Sunday .. where the guys honked the horns of two of the cars .. well I then honked my seven's horn .. Those Hella Supertones are the loudest by far! 118 dB. :D

 

Rob

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  • 10 months later...

In the process of redoing the dash .. I was not pleased with the spring loaded horn pin which was glued in place. So after some searching around the shop .. a friend and I decided that a black push button would do the trick. It will be very sturdy. The horn pin is from an '80s Toyota.

 

Rob

 

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1636234784_horn button.JPG

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