twobone Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Anyone do a heater bypass with valves on a caterham? Best options for parts? Anything special to know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxologist Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 My 7 had the valves already as the pull lever in the far right corner halts the coolant flow. my feet are surrounded by heat. Engine and tranny to the right, headers on my toes, and exhaust and cat on the left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobone Posted June 6, 2011 Author Share Posted June 6, 2011 I'm RHD so I think I can make a big difference with a proper bypass. Not sure I want to do a cockpit lever system. I may try to rig up a set of t-valves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsimon Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 If your chassis has a later "fresh air" type heater, you can purchase a bypass control valve for it. The control valve automatically bypasses the coolant flow to the heater core. Here. I think the fresh air heater was introduced in 1988 or so. It can be identified by an air intake that lines up with central lovers in the bonnet. There are two versions of the heater (metal and plastic) but I believe both use the same bypass valve. The bypass valve won't work with the older box heater that draws air from the cockpit If you've an older box heater, a splice tube and a pair of jubilee clips is the solution. Of course, you can always bin the heater and raise your power to weight ratio... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobone Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 I'm thinking of something like this. I borrowed this pic from Rob's posting on the for sale forum. I assume this is no less likely to cause an airlock then a standard bypass valve. Any downside to this approach? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobone Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 One thing that I don't understand with this approach is that there are not cutoffs on each side of the heater. Would the heater block still not get as hot as the coolant unless it is shut off completely? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 With one heater line blocked by the valve there is no coolant flow through the heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
athens7 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Jeff Sloan at British Auto Specialist had installed a valve in front of my heater when he built the car. He can be found here: http://www.britauto.net/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danilo Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Give thought to Not blocking the water circuit. Plugging a line/flow is likely not the best approach. IF you must.. then at least cross connect(shunt) the in and out flows/lines. OR if one wanted to retain the 'bit extra' rad volume of the heater core, simply block the heater's air exits into the car ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobone Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Thanks I will try to get under the dash and see what kind of vent block I can fashion for the summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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