Crossflow Sump Gasket Replacement

[11Budlite]

I'm working on a friends '92 X-Flow powered Caterham DeDion that has an oil leak from the pan due to a slight crack from bottoming out on our crappy roads.

 

I'm having the crack TIG-welded and will replace the sump gasket with the Caterham supplied cork/rubber setup. What's the best way to handle the junction between the flat cork gasket and the half moon rubber seals? Do you put a small bead of silicone there? Do you use a gasket sealer like Hylomar blue on the cork gasket or install it dry?

 

Any other typical places for leaks on a X-Flow that I should be aware of?

 

What's the torque setting for the sump? I'm assuming it's in the 5-10 lb/ft range.

 

Is there a sump guard available for this year Cat that would prevent this from happening in the future?

 

Any tips for the installation would be appreciated!

[TheDingo8MyBaby]

Aluminum or steel pan?

 

I've never really liked the cork gaskets for the pan - they still tend to leak no matter what you do.

 

I use a high quality RTV to seal the entire pan (put a thin bead on the rubber semi-circle). I use "The Right Stuff" from permatex. Preparation is critical.

 

The sealant should be applied to the outer perimiter of the Sump & completely around the bolt holes but avoiding an excess that could fall into the Sump.

 

I assume it's a 711 block. If you're really set on using a gasket, Burtons do one out of paper with neoprene end seals.

 

I tend to use 4-6lbs or "snug." The key is not to overtighten, but check relatively often.

[11Budlite]

Thanks Dingo, it's a steel pan. He has two gasket sets but the one he showed me had a cork gasket. I also have a new container of the "The Right Stuff" in my shop so we have that option if that's the best solution. The crack is fixed, I made sure the mounting flanges are flat, I'll prime/paint it today and probably install it tomorrow.

[The Stig]

 

I tend to use 4-6lbs or "snug." The key is not to overtighten, but check relatively often.

 

And use thread lock. 'Snug' is critical otherwise warped sump pan and leaks (not that Crossflows ever leak!) If you don't have them, there are spreader washers available that help a lot and replacing the bolts with Capheads makes tightening much easier using an allen key rather than a socket.

[11Budlite]

If you don't have them, there are spreader washers available that help a lot and replacing the bolts with Capheads makes tightening much easier using an allen key rather than a socket.

 

Thanks Stig. Do you know where the spreader washers are available? I was going to try to use the biggest washer that would fit in the available space but if there is something specific to this application that'd be better.

Edited June 8, 2012 by 11Budlite

[The Stig]

I thought Burton did them but I really can't find those washers and now I think my engine builder made them himself when he did my Crossflow and added the Dry Sump - steel pan but may have come with the bolts and washers. Maybe DIY is an option.

[MBEARDEN]

Try Hambuger Performance....they have spreader and bolt kits...not very expensive and you only need the spreaders...they also have them for valve covers.

[TheDingo8MyBaby]

The spreaders DO help if you have a steel valve cover, but don't bother if your cover is cast aluminum.