R300 wiring schematic

[Klasik-69]

I'm hoping that someone out there might be able to share a wiring schematic for a 2004 Caterham R300 with 2.0L Zetec DOHC engine and Pectel T2 ECU. I have the assembly book the original owner/builder got from Caterham but the wiring schematics in the back are not for what I have. Right now my car is dead, won't start, and I need to see if I have a harness or a ECU issue. Thanks to anyone who can help.

[Croc]

Sorry to hear of your bad luck.

 

Wiring diagram on a Zetec? :willy_nilly: I made no headway on this when I was fettling my then new yellow SV zetec after purchase. From discussions with Ben at Caterham USA (at the time) there was not one.

 

So in the attempt to be vaguely helpful for someone (if not you) here are the wiring diagrams I am aware of around the place for Caterhams:

 

Wiring diagram for Rover K series 2001 onwards

http://www.hoymotorsport.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/files/Caterham%20main%20loom%20Diagram.pdf

 

 

Wiring diagram for a Sigma engine - start at p156

http://www.caterham.co.uk/assets/html/technical/Caterham-Assembly-Guide-July-2010.pdf

 

 

Wiring diagram for a CSR260/200

http://www.sjmmarsh.f2s.com/7documents.htm

 

 

Wiring diagram for a R500. It is the Caterham Italian website but the European sites seem to get more technical information released than the UK and a ton more than we get in the US. Anyway Italian and wiring diagrams seem to go together to my way of thinking.

http://www.caterhamcars.it/tecnologia/manu.html

 

 

Do you get a click when key is turned or just silence? Is the fuel pump running or engine cranking? Any alternator lights on dials?

 

If silence and no lights on dials then I would start with the usual suspects:

- check inertia switch and reset

- I assume battery has charge and is connected?

- you have not done my trick and forgotten to switch on the FIA cutout switch :blush:

- no obvious disconnections just from scanning wires to battery, fuel, starter, alternator, chassis earth, ECU?

 

If you have done this already then sorry for stating the obvious - just trying to help you think through things.

[Boxologist]

battery is in the correct orientation, +/- are hooked up correctly. the cables are suitable length that they can be reversed. Worst case is that an ECU can be fried.

[Klasik-69]

Everything on the car seems to work to include lights, turn signals, brake lights, etc.

 

Engine wise;

-fuel pump fires up and pressure is as it should be

-ECU has 12 vdc power going to pin as designated by Pectel

-I have checked for continuity from ECU to all four injectors and both sides of the coil

- Battery is hooked up correctly with the + on the + side

- ECU was indicating no CAM signal so I replaced the CAM sensor and further checked the continuity between the CAM sensor and the correct ECU pin

- reading ignition 12 vdc on both sides of the split coil going back to the ECU

- crank sensor doesn't seem to be pulsing but I'm not sure how much of a pulse this thing generates. I read it at various ohm settings and checked voltage to see if its a voltage variation.......no sensation either way

- verified that both ECU ground and sensor grounds are proper

-pushed in every pin at the 26 pin AMP connector and verified continuity between AMP connector and inside the ECU connections

- have power going to the ECU everywhere indicated by Pectel but they're not exactly a fountain of information. As you said Croc, European sites have a lot more info on these than anything state side.

 

I'll look up the links you sent. I will pursue this thing and will make it work, hopefully before I die of old age.

[Croc]

Ah this helps clarify. So the starter is cranking over by the sounds of it as you can see oil pressure.

 

If you remove a spark plug can you see if it is sparking when you try to crank it over? My guess is no based on your symptoms unless the ECU goofed the timing. So then you back track down the coils/leads back to the ECU to narrow the problem down.

 

Also if you do this you can check if the fuel is getting into the piston on cranking. This should eliminate fuel as a cause of the problem.

[Klasik-69]

Yes the motor cranks and cranks but doesn't fire. As I said previously, fuel pressure is fine, goes right up to 45 psi and stays there. Oil pressure climbs as you crank as well. I put a spark checker in line with #1 plug and saw nothing, which is what I suspected. What made me suspicious that it was more than just spark problem is the lack of smell of fuel so I knew the injectors weren't getting pulsed either. I was sure it was ECU related. The ECU said it wasn't reading the CAM sensor so I changed that but that didn't fix anything. Jon at Caterham has been giving me some clues and it appears he may have been dead on. He said the car will run without the cam sensor but won't run without a crank sensor. Well I just removed the crank sensor and its bad, won't read anything. I've ordered a new one and will try again when I get it. This thing is not going to whip my butt.

 

If I've finally discovered the problem, this will actually be one lucky Friday the 13th for me.

[Croc]

thats good news - crank sensors are cheaper than ECUs

[Klasik-69]

PROBLEM SOLVED !!!!!!!!!!!! HURRRRRRRRRRRRAYYYYYYYYYY !!

 

Good old Pectel T2 said CAM sensor ....................WRONG. Thanks to Jon @ Caterham USA, he told me the engine will run without a cam sensor but won't run without a CRANK sensor. He was right, the crank sensor went bad. I put in a new one, and barely a touch of the starter, the magic sound of my Zetec came to life. Life is good when the motor runs. Now, I can finish tuning this thing.

 

Many thanks to Croc and Boxologist for trying to help me out. A very BIG THANK YOU to Jon who again came to my rescue.

 

Mike