xcarguy Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 I used these on the rear of my Birkin: http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/mk2-housing---ultrabright-led/ Here is what they looked like: http://www.texasmotorworks7.com/2012-Birkin-Super-Seven-S-3-Arlington-Texas-76012/3371978 Worked Well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road SHO Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 Xcar, Thanks for the link. If my S-1 didn't have indents in the fenders for the "double bubble" light holders that they used, I think those are exactly what I need. I'm going to take my light holders (what the heck are these things called anyway??) down to a motorcycle supply and see if they have any 3" stop/tail lights with LEDs. Those bike riders want to be seen about as much as we do on the street. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhubbard422 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Hey Tom, What solution did you come up with for your tail lights? Mine are on the same path to failure... Thanks, Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhubbard422 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Same lamp, but from British Pacific ... I cut the plastic lamp holder from the mounting flange and superglued in a metal lampholder. Easier to do than to explain. ... Rovers North also sells an LED replacement (but not direct replacement, the bolt patterns are different): http://landroverparts.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=LED6388&type=0 $29.95 each. Lots of options, none great. Hello, Thanks for the suggestions as my S1 is now suffering from this same issue. I'm gonna' visit NAPA and see what options I can find. But, the LED replacement looks like it has potential. By any chance did you look into what it would take to adapt this to an S1? Thanks, Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road SHO Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) Don, I went with the 3" round LED turn and stop lights from the internet. They are not as bright as I'd like but for now they solved the melted socket syndrome. I also had to change out the flasher unit to a NAPA unit, part number EP-35L. I also modified the position of the brake light switch so that it was acted upon by a part of the pedal arm that has more movement. In other words, I moved it away from the pivot point of the arm. I can take and post pics if you need them. Tom P.S. My heating up problem came back and I found that the plastic air blocker that connects between the top of the radiator and the top of the nose cone had come loose from the nose cone side and not only blocked the top half of the radiator from getting any air movement, but also open up a huge escape route for the rest of the air coming in the grill. I am going to fix this once and for all. I'm also going to remove my headers and have them Jet-Hot coated to keep some of the heat out of the engine compartment, and install a new and longer throttle cable which will not make such tight bends (and not be melted from it's close routing to the bare headers). On a side note: My car has the 4 throttle bodies that have their own internal return springs, but the cable attachment bracket also has two helper springs, to make it even harder to press the gas pedal. I have a feeling they added the two extras to overcome the tight bends in the throttle cable. I removed the helpers and did a pedal check; the throttle plates still returned to close with plenty of tension, so I will be disconnecting those on a permanent basis. P.P.S I tried the exact replacements as Transaplian recommended but found that the light sockets actually did not fit the fiberglass correctly and did not feel like cutting the fiberglass to make a cheap ass light fit. I still have those if anybody wants them. Tom Edited January 19, 2014 by Off Road SHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 I went with the 3" round LED turn and stop lights from the internet. . . . I also had to change out the flasher unit to a NAPA unit, part number EP-35L. I also modified the position of the brake light switch so that it was acted upon by a part of the pedal arm that has more movement. In other words, I moved it away from the pivot point of the arm. I can take and post pics if you need them. P.S. My heating up problem came back and I found that the plastic air blocker that connects between the top of the radiator and the top of the nose cone had come loose from the nose cone side and not only blocked the top half of the radiator from getting any air movement, but also open up a huge escape route for the rest of the air coming in the grill. I am going to fix this once and for all. I'm also going to remove my headers and have them Jet-Hot coated to keep some of the heat out of the engine compartment, Tom, How about posting some photos (of all mods) here for future reference. Also, as an added bonus to header coating for the purpose of controlling controlling heat, you can wrap your header. I wrapped my 'coated' headers http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23102 with a titanium exhaust wrap form Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010127/overview/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhubbard422 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Don, I went with the 3" round LED turn and stop lights from the internet. They are not as bright as I'd like but for now they solved the melted socket syndrome. I also had to change out the flasher unit to a NAPA unit, part number EP-35L. ... ... P.P.S I tried the exact replacements as Transaplian recommended but found that the light sockets actually did not fit the fiberglass correctly and did not feel like cutting the fiberglass to make a cheap ass light fit. I still have those if anybody wants them. Tom Tom, thanks for the quick reply! I'll look around the net a bit more and see what I can find. Do you know how many LEDs or Lumens are produced by the one's you found? If you're willing to share, pics of your solution would be nice. And let me know if you need pics of the radiator shroud area... I have no idea what state mine is in, but a comparison may (or may not) be helpful... Thanks, Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road SHO Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Don, Here are the tail/stop lights I used. http://www.amazon.com/Round-Surface-Mount-Brake-Lights/dp/B004NYKBGM The turn signal lights look identical when they are off also, just light up amber when hot. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhubbard422 Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Thanks Tom! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedwagon Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Was in the local Chairman Mao's junk sale (harbor freight}today and in the trailer section they had some round ones and also some rectangle ones that looked like they would cover the two raised spots on the S1 rear fenders. Might be worth a look, may go back with measurements next time to town. No hurry as my fenders both need repair and the car is down for a heart transplant. John S1 #22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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