7 plus 2 Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) So everything painted it was time to re-assemble the wire wheel. Picture 1: the lacing begins Picture 2: almost done Picture 3: time to start adjusting I had numbered each row of spokes and kept them together in coffee cups all through the ordeal. I also made notes and diagrams as to the order they came out and which number row went where. I tightened the spokes till no more threads showing to keep it even. Then tightened them all some more, a ½ turn each, till they started to get tight. Using the average tone (sound made by hitting them with a taped screwdriver) of the spokes on another rim I tightened a little bit more. I then mounted the rim on the front axel of the car and started adjusting: first, the short spokes for out of round; then the long spokes for lateral run out. I marked four locations, 12:00 o’clock (at the seam and valve stem hole), 3:00 o’clock, 6:00 o’clock , and 9:00 o’clock, then noted the highest spot. Tedious work to say the lease. I’m pleased to say that they are now all done (after a day of adjusting) and the out of round is less than 30 thou, the run out is less than 40 thou. The out of run is worse at the seam and I figured that is probably normal. Now I have to touch up the paint on the nipples… and get the tyres mounted without much damage. Edited October 31, 2013 by 7 plus 2
MHKflyer52 Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 And people wonder why wire wheels cost between $266 and $377 US dollars each. Nice job. Once you have the tires mounted then recheck the spokes and trueness as they tend to settle as the stresses are equalized. :driving:
7 plus 2 Posted November 2, 2013 Author Posted November 2, 2013 I also hear that you have to do a tyre off "tune up" after 200 miles as well. What a pain!! That's what you get for wanting to be unique. I did do multiple coarses of hitting the rim all the way around with a large rubber mallet while tuning. This, I supposed, would help seat the spokes and nipples.
Jawfish Posted February 12, 2014 Posted February 12, 2014 Very nice, Yes they are a pain, but they look so good... Any more updates ? Love the posts !!!!
7 plus 2 Posted June 6, 2014 Author Posted June 6, 2014 Sorry I haven't been posting like I was, but back problems (2 slipped vertebrae) have been keeping me off my feet. Yes that was vertebrae and not discs, the two discs on these vertebrae have been worn to nothing. Been to a Neuro-surgeon and he wants to fuse 5 vertebrae (L 1-5) which will leave me unable to bend at the waist. Plus, he said that driving a harsh riding vehicle will possibly break the bones once fused. Now that I have the time to finish the car, I shouldn't be driving it when it's done. Hell on earth!!!
Automoda Posted June 6, 2014 Posted June 6, 2014 To be honest my 7 doesn't ride all that hard. Yeah, I bounce a bit on the highway at speed, but its not like I'm getting dropped 3 feet to the cement and landing on my butt. Its more like some kid is kicking the back of my seat on a flight. I've never thought "dang that was jarring!" The Birkin has plenty of suspension travel. The reason I think it feels a bit rougher than other cars is simply that the car is so light. You might be able to put softer springs on it and smooth it out a bit. I think your bigger problem is going to be getting IN the car more than the little bit of roughness driving it.
7 plus 2 Posted June 10, 2014 Author Posted June 10, 2014 Getting in with the roof down is not a problem. I haven't tried with the roof up 'cause it is in pieces (as templates for the guy who was going to make me a new one). Maybe I will find it's not that bad if I keep the tyre pressure around 20 psi. Some one told me that is what it's supposed to be, being part of the suspension. But, I still have a lot to do and working on it for more than 10 minutes at a time is painful. I took the carbs apart (dual Weber 40 DCOE) and after assessing the price for parts and new jets for the larger engine, it's better to just buy 2 new ones.
7 plus 2 Posted November 10, 2014 Author Posted November 10, 2014 I've seen the neuro surgeon and now an orthopedic surgeon and after them seeing the CAT scan, the X-rays and the MRI, both of them said "How are you even walking". I'm scheduled for fusion surgery on L2 to L5 in the late spring or early summer of 2015 by the orthopedic surgeon. Then it's 4-6 months in a brace. After that the surgeon claims I should have limited movement in this region, but movement just the same. Hopefully this will aleaviate the pain and I can start post more progress on SB1415.
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