Bruce K

thanks for the compliments, guy. i attached some additional pix of the wcm s2k, plus some with the backdraft in the background. on the woodward cruise, people are now making up to a 2 week vacation out of the event. vendors along woodward tell me that visitors from other countries are shipping their cars here, doing some touring, and then making the cruise their wrap-up. the event peaks on the technical cruise "day", but is very strong for the entire week prior, and visible for the week preceding that. big dropoff after the cruise, though - everybody's had enough and headed home. recommended for anyone who loves cars and people.

Here it is, all newly rebuilt: My "World Class Motorsports S2K Ultralite" Super Seven (the name weighs more than the car) at the 8/17/2013 Woodward Cruise. Got the car onto Autoeurope's alignment rack with 4 days to spare. We'd replaced all the heims and links, added braces and more, so the car was WAY out of adjustment. Took Autoeurope a full day to dial it in. Goes like stink now. I was whomping cars with monster motors all day. Stuff the front man's mike up the ass end of a hornet's nest, and you've got the sound of that 9000 rpm Honda motor and Dynatech exhaust. What a trip! I arrived early on Saturday with my Backdraft Cobra, but with 90 degree weather and inchworm traffic, my Roush V8 developed a fever. So, I left for an hour and switched cars. Glad I did. Rest of the day, the needle on that S2K never touched 200 degrees. Plus - too many times -I beat it like a borrowed burro, and it still gave 20 mpg! Pound for pound, it's got more rubber on the road than most anything else, and it knows how to use it. If you dumped a quart of popcorn in the parking lot, you could autocross every kernel. A Lotus buddy described it as a "Caterham on steroids", and i think he nailed it. Better brakes and turn-in, more acceleration than anything except the r500/600. Still think my Backdraft is sexier, but man, people mobbed that little car. It looks like fun on four wheels, and it is. During this build, we also installed PIAA 550 headlights, lexan windscreens, a 4.111 LSD, full stainless braided fuel lines and aluminum fittings, nifty blue G-Force 5-ways, a new shifter and Mugen knob. We also rebuilt the fuel cell, added the new diff brace, repainted the hood and fenders, and raised the seats 2.5". Other than that, nothing much! I wish I had WCM business cards on Saturday. I would not be recovering from strained tongue today. Everybody wanted information. The only time I got stopped, it was a bike cop wanting to know where he could buy one. Look at those pix - Bentleys, Ferraris, every species of Shelby, T-Birds, musclecar Chevelles, Corvettes galore, even Model A's and T's. An incredible celebration of everything automotive. A fantastic day, made better by my water bottle full of Traverse City Reisling (shhhh!) Can't wait till next year!

again, thanks for the advice, loren. jeff duncan, the prior owner, installed a mugen baffled aluminum pan before i bought the car, so i should be good there. on high revs, someone told me that honda used to pull an occasional test engine off the line and run it for 250 hours at redline. if true, that's an amazing testament to the durability of the motor. i've driven many caterhams and owned two. only the two liter dohc bd3 cosworth motor comes close to this experience, and i feel a lot more comfortable revving the s2000 - if it breaks, i don't need shares in tesla to fix it (i once paid $6,500 for an aluminum 4 cylinder cosworth block!)

yoda has spoken! still, from what was said, 4:44 will involve more 5/6 shifts on the track, and i want to avoid that. i'm thinking of the "toilet bowl" and the long sweeper at grattan - the g-forces will interfere with already difficult gear selections. however, i won't really know till i get there. meanwhile, loren, the guys at autoeurope were very impressed with your product. the following statement (quoted earlier) was theirs: "the wcm s2k is a caterham on steroids, with more of everything - revs, hp, gears, brakes, lateral seat support, leg room, rubber - even wheel studs!" they will see it in action in october at a grattan event that they host. and thanks for all your help getting this car back on the road, loren!

that down-low punch is probably the reason loren likes the 4.44, also. and it's good to hear that you can reach 60 in 2nd, even though you are at the top of the rev range. but from your reply, i am believing that you would run most tracks in 4th/5th, or even 5th/6th. 5 and 6 are the two toughest gears to find in that box. as i drive the car, i get better at locating them, but finding 5/6 will never be like finding 3/4. AND (BIG and), if you miss 6th and hit reverse, it's aloha tranny - and that's NOT mele kalikimaka! so let's see if i have this sorted out: for screaming stoplight performance and low/medium speed cruising, 4.44 is the better diff. for track and highway, 4.111 appears to be a good choice.

i'll get pix, guys. romeo, i can take dimensions and with the pix, you could make these gaurds yourself - super simple, just bolt to bottom frame rails. seeing the videos of these mad autocrossers, i can see how those wimpy plastic cones could take out a rear fender. give me armco and a tire barrier, any day! now that my 4.111 is installed, i think you would have a nearly useless first gear if you installed a 4.44. you might need 3 gears to 60 mph. i just got the alignment and haven't tracked my car yet, but i envision this to be a predominantly 3rd/4th gear track car. with a 4.44, you would IMO be a 4th/5th gear tracker. you already know how tricky it can be to find 5th gear quickly, or in a high-speed or tight curve. i don't think you would be happy with the 4.44 - but it IS loren's favorite diff, and he knows a lot more about these cars than i ever will. i will have more to report in a few days, but i have about 100 miles on the car, and i will report right now that it is freakin' FAST! it feels faster than my 402SR roush-equipped backdraft racing roadster. it sure as hell will be faster around a racetrack. my initial impression, which could reverse with more experience, is that the wcm s2k is a caterham on steroids, with more of everything - revs, hp, gears, brakes, lateral support, leg room, rubber - even wheel studs! we'll issue a final opinion after more saddle time. but at this point, i say thanks, jeff duncan, for selling me this car!

hello, everybody. i have the following used wcm s2k ultralite parts for sale: set of four (4) black 15" diamond racing wheels with hoosiers for the wcm s2k. hoosiers are 23 x 9.5 x r15 and are additionally labelled r25b. both tires and wheels are in good condition. subaru differential which i think is about 3.54 (i will look into this). the lower ratio is better suited to autocrossing, according to the former owner and others. when i bought the car, the former owner included a 4.111 diff in the sale, which may have been in the car originally. as i will use the car for street and track, i installed the 4.111. less than 9000 miles on the 3.54. was working perfectly when i removed it - clean looking, no leaks, no noise, no vibration. original black plastic high and low beam front headlights (high and low beams in separate enclosures) and one original aluminum headlight bracket. original flat lexan windscreen in aluminum frame. includes wiper motor and blade. wiper motor was not working when i removed it, though it could have been a bad connection. will need new lexan. can be mounted with or without the wiper. unless required by local laws, i would NOT install the wiper motor and blade - cleans only about 15% of the windshield. original canvas or fabric top, side curtains and doors. look to be in really good condition. the former owner used them when trailering his car (he had an open trailer). i don't think he drove around with them on, as the items look about new. left (driver) side autocross cone guard. bolts to underside of car. deflects cones away from the rear fender. a really smart way to protect the rear fenders if you like to autocross. i don't have the passenger side guard, but you could mock it up easily from the driver's side. let me know if you have interest in any of these items. thanks!

ditto!

thanks for that extra info on the caster number. i have a front drive cadillac cts that i just required the alignment shop to set to less than minimum caster, so it wouldn't self-center so aggressively. i prefer lighter, more communicative steering, so i will use 5 or 5.5 degrees.

I want to verify my file information regarding the correct street/track alignment specs for the wcm s2k. I have .1 degree toe-in; 5.5 to 6 degrees castor; and 1.5 degrees negative camber (radial tires all four corners). Any other alignment tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

great to hear that the result was worth the work in your case. we are completing the heim swap, installation of crosswise diff brace and other repair and upgrade work on my wcm s2k this week, hopefully in time for an alignment on thurs. after the alignment, i will promptly report my results - hope they are salutary as yours!

thanks for the kind words, mondo and off road sho.

thanks for the compliment, mike. and you are right, rikker: a cobra is essentially a bigger seven - about twice as heavy, about double the power, more wheelbase/track. though cobras are prettier to look at and a lot more attention-grabbing, i prefer the seven driving experience. both are fabric from the same thread, which explains why many enthusiasts own examples of both.

Fantastic Backdraft Racing Roadster offered for sale on ebay. And my opinion is not influenced one whit by the fact that it is mine! Seriously, this car would cost about $80,000 to build today, so someone is going to make a great purchase: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Backdraft-Roadster-2007-all-options-Roush-402-SR-Perfect-Cobra-Shelby-/141022502359?_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&forcev4exp=true

thanks from me, as well, loren. i sent back the walbro gsl393 and ordered the more-powerful gsl392 that you specified. just in time, too - the 393 was about to be installed.

10-4, guys - i swapped out stock rubber lines for double-stainless braided racing fuel lines. also, the tank was already plumbed for an exterior pump - i should have noted that to save your time. my problem is that the carter p74932m (currently fitted) no longer appears to be available, and is also about twice the price of most good hi-pressure/volume race-capable fuel pumps. moreover, the carter is specced for various pickup trucks, so i am guessing that the price reflects scarcity rather than capability or quality.

thanks for quick responses. Mondo, if you don't mind, let me know what you are using, as well. thanks!

we are working on a honda s2000-powered wcm s2k ultralite car. the external carter fuel pump has failed. these pumps do not seem to be available new at this time. standard honda pump is in-tank, which will not work for our fuel cell. has anyone used any other fuel pump for the wcm s2k? we are looking at the GSL394-WALBRO. is this a good choice? thanks!

hello, everybody. i have the following used wcm s2k ultralite parts for sale: set of four (4) black 15" diamond racing wheels with hoosiers for the wcm s2k. hoosiers are 23 x 9.5 x r15 and are additionally labelled r25b. both tires and wheels are in good condition. subaru differential which i think is about 3.54 (i will look into this). the lower ratio is better suited to autocrossing, according to the former owner and others. when i bought the car, the former owner included a 4.111 diff in the sale, which may have been in the car originally. as i will use the car for street and track, i installed the 4.111. less than 9000 miles on the 3.54. was working perfectly when i removed it - clean looking, no leaks, no noise, no vibration. original black plastic high and low beam front headlights (high and low beams in separate enclosures) and one original aluminum headlight bracket. original flat lexan windscreen in aluminum frame. includes wiper motor and blade. wiper motor was not working when i removed it, though it could have been a bad connection. will need new lexan. can be mounted with or without the wiper. unless required by local laws, i would NOT install the wiper motor and blade - cleans only about 15% of the windshield. original canvas or fabric top, side curtains and doors. look to be in really good condition. the former owner used them when trailering his car (he had an open trailer). i don't think he drove around with them on, as the items look about new. left (driver) side autocross cone guard. bolts to underside of car. deflects cones away from the rear fender. a really smart way to protect the rear fenders if you like to autocross. i don't have the passenger side guard, but you could mock it up easily from the driver's side. let me know if you have interest in any of these items. thanks!

you're welcome. besides current owners, this site attracts folks interested in purchasing seven-style cars. i consulted usa7's myself before buying my wcm s2k. i had owned 2 caterhams, but never a wcm. from the many posts by happy wcm owners, i was able to decide in favor of my purchase. perhaps you should sign up and start a conversation. your car is interesting and seems well-executed. good luck with your sale.

FOLLOWING THREE ARE LISTED ON EBAY RIGHT NOW: 1996 Caterham with new stock crossflow, LWB, DeDion independent suspension, $27,995 buy-it-now: [/url]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lotus-Super-Seven-1996-Caterham-1996-caterham-titled-as-1967-lotus-super-7-roadster-collector-car-/181167104017?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2a2e66a011&vxp=mtr Birkin, no date of manufacture provided, zetec with oil, fuel, shock, other mods, bid currently at $12,100 and reserve not met: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Birkrin-Lotus-Seven-Series-3-/251295955378?pt=Race_Cars_Not_Street_Legal_&hash=item3a8267f9b2&vxp=mtr Ariel Atom clone with Porsche 914 motor and Porsche transaxle, awesome krypton green and black color scheme, $25,000 or best offer: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lotus-Super-Seven-Replica-matrix-mako-TR-42-Ariel-ATOM-inspired-EXOcar-/261238925547?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3cd30da8eb&vxp=mtr AND CURRENTLY OFFERED BY HAYES HARRIS AT WIRE WHEEL: POSSIBLY THE BEST DEAL IN THE GROUP, a 2003 Birkin in lemon yellow, full weather gear, Zetec wi/5 speed, adjustable pedal box, Wilwoods, quick-release wheel, mounted spare, Kumhos for $19,900 asking (and Hayes will deal): http://www.wirewheel.com/2003-Birkin-S3.html

loren - the original rubber differential bushings in my car are worn. additionally, several forums cite the original sloppy oem bushings as a source of klunking, diff twisting and more. we are considering upgrading to urethane. are the original bushings post-2002 stock subaru impreza? they look close without taking measurements. here's a link to an established supplier of handling upgrades including these bushings: http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_11_260_264_1195&products_id=17 let me know if this page identifies the correct replacements. thanks!

most of the racing heims i have purchased can be rotated by hand. this includes heims for goody's mini-nascar, d sports racer, panoz gts and the s2k. you should ask gary some add'l questions like: will f1 heims heat up when driven hard? are they more or less durable? are they more or less likely to break? i would like to hear what you found out. gary told me that he shipped me mid-grade / racing grade heims. he said that 3 grades of precision are available, with the highest grade used in medical / aeronautical, etc. he did not mention f1 or f2 fit, but maybe that was because i told him to sell me what he sold to roman. anyway, let us know what you find.

great looking car, very nicely detailed. however, compared to s2000 honda, saturn powertrain is way off the mark - might as well say powered by uranus. gives away 75 hp, 5 speeds vs 6, narrower powerband, buzzy. wonder what his reserve is?

thanks to loren and everyone else who contributed info on this thread. the forum does not send me emails, so i was not aware of your PM, loren. RSS, you could be correct that you will tighten the suspension and spend less time/money by swapping in shoulder bolts. however, if you have put lots of miles on your car, and/or a few hundred track miles, you may want to dig into the rear suspension a little deeper, as there could be other problems (read on). i will supply a cautionary tale regarding the teflon-lined heim upgrade. we disassembled the rear suspension, only to discover that the differential brace (which shrouds the driveshaft) had been torn as in other cars. we followed loren and rahal's recommendations, and metal-formed a brace to the tail of tunnel, and then seam-welded it (make sure you also reinforce the welds on the tail bolt, top and bottom). we then followed loren's advice and swapped in a lim-slip 4:111 for the current 3:545 (torque thrills coming - yeah!). finally, we tackled the heim swap. however, the interface between the steel heim studs and the hex aluminum suspension arm threads had fused with corrosion. we could not extract any of the heims without ruining the suspension tubes. either anti-sieze / anti-corrosion grease was never applied to these threads, or it had expired. however, the solution was not overly expensive, costing under $200 for all new hex aluminum threaded tubes for front and rear suspension and all required left / right jam nuts (in-stock and delivered within five days). since prices for these parts are all over the map, i've provided a link for the very reasonable supplier i used: [/url]http://www.portcityracing.com/ we also installed shoulder bolts, grade eight. i'm inclined to believe, along with roman and others, that shoulder bolts will provide longer service life, because there is a multiple of contact or patch area on each bolt to distribute rubbing stresses. i would also reason that shear strength is increased, because metal threads are not cut into the shoulders of these bolts. all required grade eight shoulder bolts, washers and crush nuts were obtained for less than $50 locally - a bit less than fastenal pricing. with only a small premium in price for shoulder bolts, i wouldn't recommend using fully-threaded machine bolts. now, shoulder bolts have different standard dimensions than fully-threaded machine bolts. the stud is smaller and shorter. we found that, in order to fit a washer and still have 100% of the nut thread contacting stud surface, "crush" nuts were required. instead of nylon locking surface, these nuts are squeezed slightly out-of-round, and lock in place. they are shorter than nyloks because the nylon locking "hat" is absent. that means they are sized better for the shorter shoulder bolt studs. i would recommend crush nuts when ordering your hardware. our final suspension work involves constructing and installing the crosswise rear differential locating brace recommended by loren and others. we are concluding that work at this time. we also chose to salvage the original aluminum fuel tank. the original tank has anti-surge baffling and carries a full 15 gallons, which is useful for touring. plus, the tank compartment is oddly-sized: wide left-to-right, but short top-to-bottom and narrow front-to-back. this limit standard fuelcell selections to just a couple 8 gallon units (you don't want to know the price of custom units!). problems with the original tanks included top leaks, because the thin top metal deformed around the original filler cap, and the cap lacked adequate clamping force. the original tanks were also secured only with straps (as opposed to brackets and bolts), and thus moved around a bit and suffered chafing. i rewelded all the seams and fittings on the tank and reinforced it on all chafed surfaces. we then installed 4 mounting brackets and two alignment tabs. the tank is bolted and strapped into place, and should not move again. we then cut blocks of fuel cell foam (summit racing) and installed these through the fuel fill hole. i also welded a second plate of aluminum onto the top surface. i then purchased a new fuel cell filler cap assembly (summit racing), with robust metal clamping rings top and bottom. we sealed the top and bottom gaskets with fuel-safe black caulk and tightened the filler cap - end of leaks! for all of these improvements, we paid less than the price of a standard eight-gallon fuel cell. i agree that a new cell with a full bladder would be safer - i'm sure it would leak out slower if punctured. however, many new fuel cells are configured with foam and no bladder, just like mine, my tank is bigger and provides substantial additional range. plus, a bladder tank is kaput in 8 to 10 years (the bladders perforate or crack). i can change the foam in my tank for less than $80 and be good as new. food for thought if you share these problems. i am logging the entire rebuild with pix and notes, and will make the journal available upon conclusion. may help others who want to undertake these upgrades. take care!