Bruce K

@Cueball1 - congrats again on your Birkin purchase. I wanted to anoint you regarding an article in the new fall issue of the splendid Magneto magazine. The inspiration for your marque, "Bentley Boy" Tim Birkin, is prominently featured in this very interesting article. It is amazing what that small clique of men accomplished in nine brief postwar years, including Le Mans records unbroken to this day. Your marque was founded by a descendant of Tim Birkin named John Watson. It is intriguing to note that the Le Mans-conquering Bentleys were giant machines, and Tim built and drove some of the biggest among them (at the time, Bentleys were sometimes disparaged as "extremely fast lorries"). Yet John Watson chose to follow Colin Chapman and produce cars at the opposite end of the size spectrum. In any event, have fun with your excellent example of the storied Birkin marque.

@mrmustang- We have enjoyed excellent conversations before, so I apologize that I must disagree with your generalizations regarding Cobra replicas. Anyone who, like @inchoate, owns a Seven understands primitive weather gear, loud motor noises, marginal wipers and lack of AC (although AC can be added without great expense, especially if a heater has already been plumbed). I especially reject your assertion that Backdrafts are poorly made. I did not experience a single significant issue with my example, nor have I heard this complaint from any other owner. Additionally, the availability of Backdraft parts and upgrades was exemplary. A Backdraft is not a perfect reproduction of a Cobra - it has more interior space, more engine space, a slightly larger track and wheelbase, and a slightly curvier and more exotic silhouette. It is the Hollywood version of the girl next door. I liked the look and appreciated the space provided by my Backdraft. A Superformance Cobra, alternately, preserves stock dimensions, though the cars include many updates and available upgrades such as better brakes, improved coilovers like Ohlins, and a racecar-style tube frame chassis. The greatest benefits these replicas could provide Inchoate are added height and girth - they are taller by several inches and heavier (approx 2,500 pounds) than Sevens, and though more dangerous than the ordinary Korean subcompact, they still provide more crash protection than any Seven not equipped with a full roll cage and automatic fire suppression. As noted earlier, other Cobra kits are only as good as the shop that assembled them, and the components used in the build. That's why I always recommend Superformance or Backdraft. Beginning with 2009 models, Porsche engineered the IMS bearing issue into extinction - no repair receipts required starting in 2009. That's still 15 years ago, so many fine used examples are available now. Porsches are very well made, one of the few sports cars which you can easily drive for 150,00 miles before rebuilding. I like to note that the analog clock in my 1982 Porsche 935 tribute loses only a few minutes every year, and it is original. For $60K you could purchase an excellent Boxster with 6 cylinder motor, which I would recommend over the 4. The 4 is capable, but you will feel the turbo lag and reduced torque, and the engine song is not even close to the 6 cylinder.

The amount of accumulated sports car wisdom distributed among USA7s members amazes me! So many great suggestions. @inchoate- As your budget is circa $60k, besides the aforementioned TVR's, Elises and others, you could also consider an Exige, which is like an Elise on steroids. I owned one, and it was easy and affordable to wring 343 hp out of that great little Toyota I4. For upgrading Elises and Exiges, contact Shinoo Mapleton at Inokinetic in CA. To my knowledge, there are not any worthy GT40 replicas or tributes available at your price point - most run $125,000 and up. Regarding Cobras and GT40's, I stress again: Stick with factory produced examples, or if a Factory Five or other kit car, look for professional assembly and crate or builder motor. Regarding the driving experience, my Backdraft was fitted with the Wilwood big brake kit, the factory racing suspension, big gummy Nitto tires and a Roush 402. It also was one of about 5 total cars produced with chromed wheels and spinners. The track and street experience provided the driver with an enormous sensation of capability, in every regard - acceleration, braking, turn-in, grip and corner adhesion - very much as I imagine an original 427 Cobra to provide. The car's stunning appearance created lots of opportunities for discussion and picture-taking. A car like my Backdraft, with low miles, would start at about $70,000 used right now. Images of my Backdraft and Exige below:

@inchoate (great handle, BTW - aren't we all!): What are the primary virtues you seek? And the secondary? Do you have a budget? For starters, Cobra replicas, if properly constructed and set up, can be a blast. I recommend Superformance and Backdraft specced with their factory handling packages and big brake kits, and Roush or Keith Craft motors. I would go with a less authentic 5 speed trans, for more versatility and fewer revs on the xway. For passenger safety, fit dual roll bars. For a more civilized experience over the road, look into GT40's and Cobra Daytonas. Personally, I cannot get enough of that GT40 look. Bruntons are much more substantial motorcars than Sevens. I almost bought one of those configured with a sequential shifter and a high-revving V8, thinking it might preserve much of the Seven experience. If you seek a Sevenesque experience, while surrounded with just a bit more car, consider the featherweight 240 hp Duratech-powered Ginetta G4 replica produced by Dare. It is sold by Christopher John in FL. Dare is an English company owned by sons of the original founder of Ginetta, and their replicas are highly accurate. Their cars can be fitted with HVAC, stereo and more. Very popular in Japan. A beautiful design and spectacularly rare. Based on driving "funness", I can recommend my streetable Lola T70 tribute - it's an ultimate thrill ride, with to-die-for curves, but also a unicorn - nearly impossible to find a used one. Additionally, my T70 provides absolutely no weather protection. I have the privilege of other cars for less clement days, which is a big part of my purchase rationale. You could have Fran build you a Lola T70, or D-Type Jag or several other fabulous cars over at RCR in Fraser MI. He's even working on a replica of Alfa Romeo Tipo 33 Stradale, one of the most gorgeous cars ever penned. He is also connected with owners of his cars who seek to sell them, so used examples could be possible. Hope this helps!

Congrats! You made an excellent purchase. You bought into an excellent marque and saved a lot of cash. You are poised to experience a pinnacle motoring experience for years to come! And, if you ever want to drop the hammer on upgrades, your new car will handle upwards of 300 hp. You are in an ideal position. For added protection, consider an FIA roll bar first. They are stronger and give you a few added inches of head and neck protection.

The biggest issue with the Superformance Seven is weight, but this is always a by-product of adding luxury. The front window frame is more substantial, which may provide a bit more ROP. The interior is fully appointed. There is roll-up side glass. Plus, the Zetec engine is about 44 pounds heavier than the Duratech. Otherwise, I have seen them at the track running solid and consistent laps. Also, their resale values remain consistent, though less than a well-specified Caterham, and a bit less than a well-specced Birkin. Superformance Seven values run about equal to the average WCM S2K. I think the car did not sell as anticipated because the Seven ethic is Spartan, and the Superformance version is a bit more Dionysian. Most folks buying a Seven don't have need or desire for side windows and such, and the extra weight is a performance demerit.

@Cueball1 - Regarding S2K's, they are excellent Sevens, in large part because of that wonderful 9,000 RPM Honda motor. During the years I owned one, I accumulated all my repair and upgrade experiences into a manual, which can be downloaded free from this site, or obtained from me by request (provide an email). It is worth owning the manual irrespective of your brand of Seven, as many of the improvements and repairs are generic. The manual also includes lots of Seven graphics and photos, so again, good for any Seven owner. 150 pages of earned Seven wisdom. Your car was built for track use, but was it used only on track? 9,000 track miles is a lot (my Lola had only 498), but because Sevens are so light, and because your motor was rebuilt a few years ago, you may be OK. I would definitely determine the correct compression ratio relative to your build, and then have it checked. Your tranny could be alright because it was designed for the much-heavier Merkur, and has been fitted with stronger aftermarket gears, but test drive the car and observe everything I noted in my earlier post. To make sure, here's a few other transmission checks: To check the baulk-ring synchronizers, first upshift into each gear at high rpm. Next, downshift into each gear without double-clutching. If the synchros are worn the gears will gnash. In most trannies, the first-reverse slider is first to go, so check those gears thoroughly. Also, when you have your compression checked, ask the mechanic to pull the tranny drain plug. Hopefully, it is magnetized, so you can see if an unusual amount of metal has attached itself to the plug (don't worry about a little, because small amounts of metal wear off as gears "learn" to mesh properly). If the plus is not magnetized and you buy the car, switch to a magnetized drain plug. Regarding the Toyota rear end, solid axles are preferred by many Sevenistas for track use, because most tracks are smooth and solid rear axles are simple and durable. However, on the street, solid axles deliver less comfort over irregular pavement. I cannot tell you the ordinary rear axle setup for Birkins. I can say I have considered purchasing at least one that had a Toyota rear. Bear in mind that Toyotas are very durable, and the axle in your Birkin was engineered to handle more than twice the weight of your car, so your axle should/could be in good shape, but check it. Lots of parts available for that axle, too. Extra wheels are great, especially the thirteens for the track, as they lower the ride height and center of gravity, providing improved cornering. That low ride height is less suitable for the street, so the flexibility of two wheel sets is great. By "rebuilt" in reference to the fuel cell, I suspect you mean the bladder was replaced. Find out the replacement date, because you can't extract much more than 10 years out of a bladder, and a new one will cost hundreds up to a thousand, and can take up to a year to get manufactured. I tried to squeeze one more track date out of a ten year old bladder in a Panoz, and made two laps before it started leaking, which got me black-flagged for the day. Lost all my track fees. That replacement date should be in the nice-looking journal the owner maintained, or on a sticker affixed to the side of the steel fuel cell housing. The Kirkey seat should be installed only if you get really serious about track. If you go in that direction, remove both current seats and install the Kirkey only for the driver. But then you should also remove every unneccessary ounce of additional weight from the car, making it unsuitable for the street. On the street, the Kirkey will not be as comfortable or attractive as the Caterham seats. You didn't mention top or doors. Those could cost you a thousand dollars if not included. Find out if he has them. BTW, canvas is cheapest, but the best material for top, doors, binnacle cover and tonneau is mohair - soft to the touch, folds easier and looks much better. Best of luck, and please report back if you buy the Birkin.

You're welcome, and correct in your observations. I bought my Superlight from a fellow who treated the car like fine art. He added every available bit of carbon fiber (nose, fenders, seats, turn signal nacelles, rearview mirrors), the FIA roll bar, engine and exhaust upgrades and more - and then barely drove it! When I saw what he had accomplished, I advised him to keep the car, drain all the fluids and mount it on his family room wall. It was the best appointed Seven I have ever encountered, which is how it earned a ribbon at the 2022 Eyes on Design concours. But the Lola is a bit more of everything - stop, go, turn-in, the sex-on-wheels element - and I couldn't say no to the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Plus, it has a title, so it's plated and I can drive it on the street! But that is my good fortune, which in no way reduces the joy you will obtain from your cherry red Birkin, should you buy it. I know we treat Caterhams like the Holy Grail, but Birkins are also legitimate heirs to the authentic Lotus Seven heritage (Birkin and Caterham being the only two who were licensed by Chapman to reproduce Sevens). They are excellent Sevens, with a wide range of available options. The Birkin company was named after a relative of one of the founders, Sir Henry Ralph Birkin, who preferred the name Tim. He was one of the original Bentley Boys, and won many races including Le Mans. So, a fine history will append to your excellent purchase, should you conclude it. The only demerit I can add is that Birkins do not retain value or appreciate like Caterhams. I believe marketing and name recognition are the difference. But that is OK, because by buying used, you save the money up front. If your Birkin was a Caterham, you would be paying $40,000 or more. Good for you, because now you can afford as many upgrades as you want!

Beautiful Seven! Headlight hoods for protection on trackday. A great color, and one of the best-detailed engine compartments I have seen. The seats look comfy, yet admirably light on weight. The car will provide the tightish fit of a standard S3 cockpit, so if you're big, beware. I would ask how many of those 9,000 miles were driven on the track - if all or most, there could be problems. Ask about leaks and examine the floor where the car is parked. When you drive it, listen for diff or trans whines, and roll the engine at low rpm's to listen for slap. Take first and second out to full rpm and feel the motor. Pay attention to how well it pulls from low rpm. A compression test at a local facility would not cost much, and would tell you a lot - tight across the board at appropriate PSI is a good sign. Note that Zetecs in light Sevens will still pull hard even if one cylinder is down a fair bit, and low cylinder(s) indicate problems. Ask if the owner has any recent oil analyses. Check the master cylinders to see if any are low (some Sevens have slave cylinders inside the bellhousing, and replacement is costly). If you find demerits, try to recover some or all of the repair expense, although his price seems reasonable for the car as pictured. Ask about doors and weather gear. Ask if he has an FIA rollbar for the car (taller and safer). If so, get that stuff included in the sale. Don't worry about a few paint chips - without those, the title is a fraud and car is not really a Super Seven. Here's my last Seven, a Superlight R400 with Duratech and close-ratio 6-speed:

I've owned 4 Super Sevens over the years (one rebuilt so extensively it qualifies for consideration as a 5th). My first was better than basic: A crossflow-equipped S3 with De Dion IRS. The car had so much mid-range punch, it soundly defeated a TVR Tuscan equipped with mighty V8 in a highway punch. The throttle response was like nothing I had ever experienced in other sports cars. Considering the recent range of Caterham offerings, I recommend starting with a Zetec or Duratec-powered car. Selecting De Dion rear suspension can provide improved track performance (there is much opinion on that subject), but will without question improve your boulevard ride and elevate your WAF. The FIA rollbar option is taller and better braced than the stock, and therefore the superior choice for both street and track (you can affordably add the FIA bar later). Holding out for the wide-track front end will give you a car with less push and roll in turns, and is recommended. The choice between standard (read "diminutive") S3 chassis and large chassis SV is determined by driver size, and I am not just considering height. I am 6 feet tall, and so fit nominally into the S3. However, I am also a weightlifter, so my shoulders and legs are a squeeze. It's a true "coffin on wheels" experience, but in the past I have enjoyed the in-cockpit stability, and have never needed to brace against G forces. If I was to purchase again, however, I would choose an SV for the additional comfort, as the performance demerit is nearly nil. With each subsequent Super Seven, I moved up in power and performance, including my final car: A Superlight R400 with enhanced Duratec and copious carbon fiber, close-ratio 6 speed, LSD and De Dion. Moving up in increments meant my adjustment at each new level was minor, an important factor when driving a car so tiny and powerful. I also built equity with each purchase, rendering my expensive final Seven purchase more affordable. I also bought all my Sevens used, saving probably $100,000 between all the cars. Lastly, when it comes to options on Caterhams, carbon fiber is quite popular. It is pretty, but costly, and adds almost no performance. My final car was loaded with CF, but only because the prior owner was willing to purchase it. Here's that last car, a winner at the 2022 Eyes on Design Concours:

Gorgeous car, but sorry to say I will not be bidding. Now, if its weight were divided into TWO cars, both with 7-speed DCT's, manual steering and more . . .

The manifold has been SOLD!

Ha! The 8th commandment is "Thou shalt not lie to thine own wife."

The roller barrel manifold provided terrific throttle response, and a little more output because of a larger intake aperture (no obstruction from the butterfly), but will cost a great deal more. If you are keeping the car, the roller barrel setup makes sense. If you are planning to sell the car, save your money.

@drakman - thanks kindly for the compliment. Are you interested in purchasing the manifold? Thanks!

@drakman - A 2010 S3 R400 Superllight with Duratec 2 liter motor and Caterham 6 speed trans and DeDion LSD rear. Some images are included, including a victory image from the 2022 Eyes on Design Concours. The prior owner installed the roller throttle body upgrade, and he was meticulous to a fault. These two parts were removed at the approximate 2,000 mile mark. Both are in great shape:

Caterham cast aluminum intake manifold and throttle ("butterfly") valve for four cylinder Ford Duratec 2.0 liter motor. Removed from a 2010 S3 R400 Superlight at about the 2,000 mile mark. The engine was upgraded to roller throttle bodies using a different manifold. Both parts are new in appearance, as evidenced in the photos below. $250 plus shipping for both. Bruce 810-938-1010

@11Budlite - Great trackday car and nice story - enjoyed it. Terrific the way you are weaving a web to capture the interest of the entire family - I have only been able to get one son to accompany me to the track. I can't even get the wife to join me - she claims it will just scare her. Regarding off-track excursions, a skilled friend and I were driving a pair of hi-po Caterhams at Waterford Hills Raceway in MI. He was ahead of me, and I just couldn't pull off a pass. In one of the turns, I pushed too hard and wetted a rear slick on the outfield grass. When I re-entered the track, the rear slid out and I started spinning. I then left the track and reentered the outfield grass, which felt like being shot out a cannon due to the sudden reduction in tire friction. I remember spinning and trying to figure out which tree I would hit, which turned out to be none. Instead, I shortcutted the course and reentered the track again, this time FACING traffic, and AHEAD of my friend, whom I had passed courtesy of the shortcut. And, of course, my motor stalled the moment I stopped. I could see my friend's eyes as he spotted my stalled car facing him in the apex of the turn - looked like two friend sparrow eggs. Fortunately, everyone saw me, my motor started, and after a brief inspection I was back out on the course again. We'll need to wrap a cozy around your forum name, bearing words like "Really a COORS".

Magnificent work, Croc. You are like Lewis and Clark, exploring new territory and mapping as you go. Driving the Kong should be an incredible thrill. I also plate all sporters. I find that driving on the street familiarizes me with the controls, helps me understand the cars' conventional reactions, assists me in dialing in suspensions and engines, and generally gives me confidence behind the wheel. Plus, the track, though great fun, is also a time of tension, suspense and rigid timetables, whereas boulevardiering is precisely the opposite - relaxing, with plenty of time to enjoy mechanical sounds, g-forces, and the rush of that occasional hard pull. Plus, cars like your BMW and Cat Kong, and my Lola and 935 Porsche are sources of inspiration and enjoyment for every knowledgeable spectator. Regarding that last point, I am fortunate to live only 30 minutes from the midwest epicenter of the automotive universe, Woodward Highway (M1).

theDreamer - I saw that on their website, so I wrote them an email, inquiring if they could model in 1/18 for me. If they can, I will inform the forum members. It has been difficult to find modellers to craft these cars for me. If anybody knows somebody who can help, please direct me to them.

Very pretty car, in a very Viper-like color. As you noted, forward-looking proportions and beautiful curves. The Die Cast model is great, and I am contacting Durham Classics now to see if they can fill in several missing 1/18th models in my collection (I have a collection of 1/18th models of the sports/race cars and "sporty" vehicles I have owned over my lifetime (I consider my former Ford Lightning and Chevy SSR with Corvette motor to be "sporty" vehicles).

@das76 - I was referring to the roll bar only - did your authorities insist that you not have a roll bar in order to give you street legality? Is so, more like street lethality! Carbon fiber did save a few ounces in my car, but Cats like yours are so powerful, and already so light, the performance difference could never be felt - more of an appearance thing IMO.

My! A car as tiny as our beloved Caterham is safer WITHOUT a roll bar? Don't mean to be political, but that seems like unreal government interference and foolishness! Are those Tillett carbon fiber seats?

Great cars - love the blue you chose for the Mini. As you rebuilt it together with your Dad, you can never sell it - in your garage, it is a rolling monument to Pop. In anyone else's garage, it is just a pretty little car. The Porsche's silver color is both sexy and cool - looks like it was carved out of polar ice. I'm curious about your excellent Superlight R (just sold one - an incredibly exciting sports car). I have never personally seen a Caterham without a rollbar, and your bar appears to be missing. A Cat will not rest comfortably on the seat tops and windshield frame. I also do not know of any Cats that have landed in that manner, but I'm sure it's happened. What is your reasoning regarding the absence of a rollbar?

Croc - I'm proud to know you! I am well aware of your huge project, Cat Kong, which would be more than enough for most of us. Now I find out about an even more massive project in this BMW - bully for you. It is skilled driver/collectors like you that give sports car enthusiasts like us a good name. You are preserving the past while augmenting the future, adding this glorious old race car to grid retinues around the USA. I had the privilege to drive a 1987 BMW 325 IS on track this past weekend, piloting it in an effort to qualify for an SCCA competition license. Your last paragraph perfectly describes my experience with that lighter - but still heavy by Caterham standards - sedan. Perhaps it is a trait of BMW sedans from the 70's and 80's - call it grace under pressure. Regarding insurance, it's a good thing I purchased trackday insurance for the event, as day one was run in the wet, and a certain notorious off-camber hilltop at our local track got sheeted with draining rain, and threw me for a spin into the armco - one of three cars that sinister spot victimized on the same day. But I passed the three day course, which included two 12 hour days, and am now qualified to participate in Vintage races with the T70. Once again - bully for Croc, who favors us all with his automotive passion.