MPG

Even though (because??) the footwell is so crowded in a LHD Westfield, the footrest is really useful. I made a 3D printed on that clamps onto one of the diagonal rails with a hose clamp.

That's basically what I did. Here's a bad picture: The heim joint is bolted to a 1/4" steel plate that's under the rubber isolator in the motor mount. Not exactly "add lightness", but I figured overbuilt was good here, and the extra 6mm of ground clearance couldn't hurt! The brass and duct tape junk is an attempt from last summer to get rid of some play because the shaft doesn't fit perfectly into the heim joint. It didn't really seem to make any difference. I've always felt like there was a tiny bit of play in the steering. But at this point I think that's just an artifact of all of the U-joints to get around the exhaust and convert from Japanese splines to US splines to British splines. I'm pretty sure the plate is stiff enough, and I don't feel any motion from the engine.

I don't have the same dash as you. I made one from scratch to look more traditional. So I could have put the fuse box anywhere. Getting it over by the ECU probably would have meant extending a lot of wires though. Probably wouldn't have been worth it. It's just a connector hanging down from under the dash that's wired straight to the Odyssey battery in front of the scuttle. I think it's what they call a "2-pole flat". Like they use on these.

Looks like fun! I think this was the slowest part of my build. After culling unneeded parts of the harness, I had to shorten some sections and lengthen others. I actually did a lot of it on a big table before moving it to the car. A couple of things I learned. Add extra ground lines. I spend a lot of time hunting down problems where the meter said something had 12V, but it still wouldn't work. The Westfield's chassis can't be counted on to carry amps like the Miata's did. Make sure both fuse boxes are easy to get to. You'll need to get to them. The "inside" fuse box on mine is by. the driver's left knee. That means I spend a lot of time upside down in there with a flashlight and my strongest reading glasses. One of these days I'm going to get stuck in there with my feet tangled in the rollbar. Make an "as built" wiring diagram, and save it. You'll be surprised how quickly you forget that you repurposed the blower circuit for some other job. I'm very glad that I added a jack in the cockpit for a battery tender. It means I don't have to take the bonnet off if I want to leave it on the tender. I also added some USB-A jacks. Those have been useful. I kind of wish I'd added jacks for those heated jackets and gloves that the motorcyclists use.

There are rubber isolators, but they're awfully tiny. You can see one in the last picture.

Yeah, mine rubs there. I added some foam around that frame member to prevent wear. BTW, the Polo rad didn't last very long for me. Started leaking where the metal is crimped onto the plastic. I think it's getting more vibration than it does in a VW. I replaced mine with a nice all metal one from coolex.

I'd definitely second using redline. I used their MT-90 in my Miata 5-speed box. It feels way better than anything else I've tried.

I saw Gilles in the rain there back in the 80's. One of the most amazing bits of driving I've ever seen.

I'm not convinced sound insulation is going to do anything, but heat insulation is certainly warranted. The standard Westfield bonnet doesn't have much in the way of vents. So the heat all ends up going down the tunnel. Insulation along there is important. Boots for the shifter and handbrake too. I also insulated the inside of the fibreglass on the left side and wrapped the exhaust. I know some have strong feelings against the exhaust wrap, but it does seem to help get some of the heat out, and I think it looks cool. I've thought on hot days that I should have added vents on the sides like some of the Westfields in the UK have done.

Revisiting this part of the build reminded me of this one from @Croc's latest weekly list: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-lotus-seven-5/ Modern engines are tall! Squeezing them under a 7's bonnet is hard.

Sure: https://blog.garritys.org/2017/06/skidplate.html I don't think kevlar will do anything to prevent crushing from bottoming out hard, but I do think it'll help against puncture wounds from sharp rocks. Luckily I haven't really had to test it. It certainly does pick up some scratches thoug:

Mine are the same. Most of the run is above the bottom of the lowered floors. But ahead of the lowered floor, they are exposed for a short run. It didn't seem too bad to me because there's a lot of other stuff projecting below the floor in that area. Such as the sump! I built a kevlar skidplate to provide a little peace of mind. I do think that it's related. to the size of the Miata gearbox compared to the one the Westfield chassis was originally designed for. Things get really tight at the rear of the gearbox.

That looks great. Nice job!

Which SLA printer are you using? I was working at Formlabs (retired now) while I was building my Westfield. Lots of parts on in that were done on their printers.

I can't see exactly what the bolts on your center cap look like in the picture. But if they're the ones with a small off-center hole at the bottom of the bigger hole, then I've been there. I made a little wrench for mine. It's really kludgy, but it worked fine for years. Those usually aren't really torqued down at all: https://blog.garritys.org/2012/11/todays-kludge.html