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About TurboWood

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Location
    South Bay, CA
  • Interests
    Things I can drive and engines
  • Occupation
  1. fun thread :)…. I have about 3k miles on my ‘13 CSR after being on the road in 2018. I need to put more miles on it! Daniel
  2. I may not be the best reference here as I have a turbo 2L and no track time yet, but I find my SPC 5-spd (1:1 4th) to be more than enough. I would even consider a taller rear end (3.38 now). It seems to me that a top gear 1-1 only makes sense if the car is mostly dedicated to the track. I wouldn’t want to lose my overdrive. Daniel
  3. Mike, You are probably right, but my turbo engine is putting about double the torque of the 485 through it. I have a Quaife ATB in it, but the case and the gears have to survive. 80's diffs and modern turbo engines don't give me warm fuzziest. My buddy had a turbo NA (1st Gen) Miata that he kept blowing diffs in despite being a mile high. All I can say is hopefully the safety factor in Ford was bigger than Mazda back then. Daniel
  4. Great, I wonder if they managed to squeeze the BMW diff in it or if they still use the older Ford unit. Blowing that thing up is my biggest concern since upgrades are limited. I may never try slicks just for that reason. Anyway, it's good to see some life coming back. They must have done some development if that article's claim is correct that it is available in the standard/S3 chassis which I don't think was ever true before. I did recently grab a CSR Ford non-limited slip diff from Caterham on heavy discount which suggests they were purging inventory. That gives me a backup, but it woul
  5. Vote from me for CSR. I’m not experienced with the various chassis, but the CSR is very comfortable on the street. I can keep up with any other vehicle on rough road so long as I don’t fear hitting the sump. With the doors on my wife almost fell asleep on a short blat. I’m only 1k miles in, but it hasn’t bitten me yet. Daniel
  6. I had my first factory part failure. The hose clamp on the fuel pump gave up, resulting in a steady drip of fuel from the fuel tank. Fortunately I discovered it as I arrived at my friends house. This friend is a fellow car guy and had everything needed to fix it, including a proper fuel hose clamp. We had it together in 20min and continued on with our short blat. The car can put down most of its power with a passenger. I still get surprised how much the traction changes depending on the passenger. The photo is upside down for some reason. As oriented the culprit was the lower right hose.
  7. Nice looking car! The 620r nose is interesting. Does it require you to install the zues fasteners or make any chassis modifications? Daniel
  8. That is indeed a lot of carbon. Do these engines run closed loop? Daniel
  9. Dyno complete and successful! It runs 16-17pis boost and just touched 301hp to the hubs. I was only able to drive it for a little while afterwards so all I can say is there is a traction problem. It was a cool day in SoCal so maybe a poor benchmark, but I did lose traction in 3rd. The ECM also runs by torque targets which will need some fine tuning to make the car more predictable, but it's nice knowing I can put my foot in it! I also redid the foam the the hood sits on. I was seeing some wear between the hood and chassis. I occasionally also heard some rattle there as well. To solve thi
  10. I had a temporary setback. Thankfully I asked the guy (Sean from Church Automotive) to slowly work up to full throttle because I had no boost control! The plugs on my TiAl WG had come out preventing the WG from opening. We weren't able to figure that out on the dyno, but clearly we had to stop when boost was shooting >25psi. I've addressed that now and took it for a test drive. Everything seems to be working properly (boost relatively stable around 14psi). What we did figure out on the dyno is I should be close to 300ft*lb at 3500 with 18psi. He reconned we could keep that 300 to 5500-6000
  11. Please cross your fingers, I'm taking the car for Dyno + tuning this Saturday. I have about 750 miles now and it's running great. I drove it last weekend for C&C and some curvy roads nearby. Hopefully I hit my 300rwhp target! I still have the speedo issue, but haven't had the motivation to try anything else. Daniel
  12. What does the gauge read if the sensor wire is grounded or open circuit? Sudden changes like that strike me as electrical. It's hard for me to buy a thermostat issue unless somehow it's letting surges of cold water out (not sure how that would work). Maybe the higher pump speed is driving something? Does it happen if you free rev the engine? One wild thought would be a plugged radiator. Maybe the higher pump speed is able to momentarily force flow through? Daniel
  13. Definitely interesting. Where in the world would these two vehicles ever both be at? Daniel
  14. Thanks for the feedback! I’ve wondered if anyone was reading my short stories. I drove the car a few more times and it is sarting consistently and I’m not getting any CEL. The car is really starting to show its legs. It’s a bit cool in southern Cal, but it still lost traction in 3rd when I started pushing. The ECM can do gear based TQ targets, but the ECM doesn’t know vehicle speed right now. I may have to change that so I can go WOT in all gears. It was somewhere around 2003 that I last drove my Supra with somewhere around 600hp. I had always built that with the vision of having 70
  15. I have a few updates. The large amount of exhaust fumes was primarily caused by a failing wastegate tube. I did almost all the wrong things for a structural weld. The one thing I did right was have a flex section between the exhaust manifold and the WG, but this meant the return tube was carrying all the load. This tube was thicker than the downpipe, it was welded to the outer radius of the downpipe (so, thinner wall due to stretching), the WG was largely cantilevered, and the downpipe hadn't been filled during welding (contaminated weld). Combining all this meant that weld failed 100% after 3
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