CBuff

I nice drive today. Met up with @BlakeJ and @NSXguy (in is Renault). came across a bmw powered locost (I think).

Any update on the build (360 or the chicken coop)

And don’t forget

As a relative newbie to track driving and my 420. My advice is just ramp up slowly. It takes a bit to get comfortable with the larger cars so close to you. Even Miata’s look big when there 8” from your elbow. I have been fortunate enough to coordinate with other owners and go out and run with other 7s. I usually find a more experienced / better driver (or @Croc if no one else is avail) and just follow them for a few laps. I also often size up the run groups and maybe drop down one if it looks less crowded or more friendly to momentum driving. Having a corvette or gtr come running up behind you can be unsettling. I often will do a pass thru the pits to find cleaner portion of the track. It’s more fun to just focus on you and not be worried about the traffic. I pretty much run my 420 as is. Cold pressure start around 18 with a hot 23/24 range. On my first few track days I was getting oil blowing out the driver (left) side of the car. My stock oil catch can had both hoses pushed all the way to the bottom which negated its effectiveness. Oil was just going into the catch can and then blowing right out the overflow tube right out down the left side of the car. Raising the hose allows the oil to collect in the catch can. I also threw a sweat band on the brake reservoir to avoid any leaking. Not sure if it’s necessary but “save the paint”. speaking of paint. Not sure how precious you are about yours. I have ppf on the front parts of the car and down the sides. You will get a good amount of rubber marks. I now run aero on track but had windshield ppf as well since I took something in the windshield and had to get the bullseye fixed. But I also get a good amount of flak for being a polishing princess.

If it bothers you. I believe soft bits does a low profile boot cover made to work without the hood sticks installed. https://www.softbitsshop.co.uk/the-boot-cover-58-p.asp

beautiful day out. A run out to oyster bay Long Island.

I think these fit. But you can check with hms. They are the us schroth distributor. https://www.hmsmotorsport.com/products/schroth-bolt-in-bracket-b24 this has 1/2” holes. You should double check if that will fit they can help you with the hardware. Bolts and special I dealt with Evan there. EVAN POLISKY SALES & DEALER SERVICES DIRECT: 978-406-4118 GENERAL: 978-774-1615 EMAIL: EVAN@HMSMOTORSPORT.COM 119 BEVAN DR., MOORESVILLE, NC 28115 100 FERNCROFT RD., DANVERS, MA 01923

I would do a full nut and bolt check. I believe there are torque specs in the files here. Or I just saw mentioned @SimonRogers built an app that outlines torque settings by car bat listing says brakes were flushed in May 2026. But maybe check other fluids. Trans, diff, oil, coolant. Replace if suspect or unknown. i am limited in my mechanical knowledge. And carbs are down right voodoo to me. But I would think going thru the carbs would be prudent. checking all hose connections and conditions. tires seem to be date coded 2012 so you should replace those even if you keep the wagon wheels. After the above are done just drive it. Other items will make themselves known.

Sorry. Its listed in a private group. Here is the seller https://www.facebook.com/groups/739892829751305/user/1727546783/

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10215311072686558

I wavered between the brake only and the running lights with brake. The majority of my driving is daytime where it’s a moot point. if I am driving at night or in poor weather (rarely) I welcome the added visibility in general and the brake lights are brighter than running. For me it’s the right approach but I see the other side of the discussion. either way you go I think the added safety and visibility is a smart play. At one point I was worrying about full hood reflections. And designed a ground switch in the boot which would disable them. But didn’t end up wiring it up since I have yet to drive with the full hood on.

Oh carl. Assume you are ok? So sorry man. Glad you got through it physically. That’s a shame about the car. my only contact is Greg at time machines in buffalo. He might have some leads on folks on the east coast.

I would just confirm they are dated belts. Many tracks won’t accept non dated

I went thru this when I purchased my car in 2023. I planned on using 4 pt on street and 6 point track. So the asm feature appealed to me. As it turns out I prefer running 6pt all the time, it names me more comfortable to have the subs keep the buckle low. as @JohnCh mentioned the profi can be configured pull up or pull down. They can also be ordered with bolt in hardware. They come standard with wrapped in clip in but can be easily switched over to bolt in (they have a ton of different versions so this take some planning to figure out which bolt in hardware goes where). My installer originally put in eye loops in the floor for the subs but it fouled the seat squab (leather seats). I changed this to bolt in easy enough. Some folks use subs straps on leather seats bolted to the rear bulkhead and run them over the seat squab. This usually requires longer sub straps which schroth said they don’t make any more. There is likely a solution to this somewhere but I just had mine bolted to the floor before the seats with appropriate plating I was originally concerned about the shoulder harness angle. So much so that I avoided getting lowered floors. This just made me fit for the broomstick test. Honestly I have not seen anyone too concerned about the shoulder strap angle (currently I am about dead level if not a little positive ). It turned out to be less of an issue - but broomstick def would be. beside looking like a knob, the point by thing with arm restraints is manageable. It takes some getting used to driving with you hands tied down.