KOnahic

Sorry guys/gals, everything has been sold.

Here's a couple of pictures for you of the end I used the JB weld on. It could probably be sanded or filed to make it a little smoother. Its 6 1/2" across & 14 1/2" tall. I hope this helps, Kurt

I replaced it with the complete distributer that Pertronix sells. The plug wires come out the side rather than the top. If they come out of the top, they hit the bottom of the front carb; if you're running 2 Webers. Kurt

Sold, Thanks, Ken

Hey Y'all, My bad...here's some pictures you can actually look at. Thanks for staying on top of things John. Kurt

John, Thanks for the heads up. I'll work on changing them to JPEG format. Thanks, Kurt

Just the stuff that comes with the master cylinders to mount the reservoirs on the firewall. Its what is shown in the picture. Kurt

Hey Y'all, I'm having a small garage sale. I have the following parts for sale: Ford Crossflow Autolite distributor with Pertronix module, slightly used cap. Comes with a second Pertronix module, a used cap & Pertronix Flamethrower coil. I got tired of fighting it every time I set the timing & the plug wires got hung up on the bottom of Weber carbs. $225 Facet 12V Electric Fuel Pump, AN6 fittings on both sides. New $55 Holley Fuel Pressure regulator New $25 Used 6qt. Oil Tank. I thought it was leaking & tried sealing the bottom with J/B Weld. It wasn't the tank. Comes with the necessary AN fittings. $150 2) Lotus Nose badges. New, still in the box. $50 ea. I have some leftover bits from installing a Tilton Pedal assembly. $5 just to cover the time it'll take me to box them. Buyer to pay the shipping. Everything except the oil tank will fit into a USPS "if it fits, it ships" box. As long as you're in the US, it'll work, elsewhere in the world I will help you find the least expensive way to get it to you. Thanks for looking, Kurt 768D4B33-AE4C-4C33-B0C5-2A89F12C384A_1_201_a.heic 3BE2E5DF-0FA5-4861-9006-6755E0C131A8_1_201_a.heic D28A6844-8E6F-45BD-B9D9-C90B5936E054_1_201_a.heic A697F740-A8CA-4A41-8011-104C3A5E19D4.heic 7C232803-3C42-4ABE-BD8D-0EBA0050587B_1_201_a.heic

It amazes me that this has created so much dialog about the VIN number. Perhaps I should have been clearer about it in the original posting. This is what I know: The car is a 1983 Caterham. I have copies of the registration going back as far as 1983, it was changed from a Caterham to a Lotus in 1984 & has been registered like that since then. I didn't ask the guy I bought it from when I bought it how or why he did that, I just accepted it. It was originally registered in California. I have sold the car & the new owner is accepting it also & it excited to be getting it.

Is there a spot on the frame of early (mid 60's) 7's where the VIN number is stamped into the frame, or is the plate near the master cylinder(LHD cars) the only spot? Thanks, Kurt

I have decided its time for someone else to enjoy my 7, so I'm selling it. It is actually an '83 that has been reregistered as a '63, vin # SB1682. I bought it this way & don't know the details. When I bought it, it was in need of some TLC. I finally restored it, while do some upgrades. It now has: Rebuilt Ford Cross flow engine with: Norris Cam Weber Carbs Dry Sump oiling system, new Oil tank, new Areoquip hoses, remote oil filter & oil cooler Pretronix Distributer & Coil Dave Bean Aluminum Flywheel with the appropriate clutch & pressure plate High torque starter Aluminum Radiator & electric fan Electric Fuel Pump Circuit Breakers replaced with a fuse box Battery has been relocated with a electrical system master switch 5) New VTO 15" wheels with 195/45x15 Toyo tires Tilton pedal assembly with dual master cylinders It has custom fabricated Hiem jointed front upper & lower control arms. This was all done prior to my owning it. Replaced all of the hardware in the suspension with the appropriate AN bolts. The rear bushings have been replaced with plastic bushings Have the original top & doors, a bikini top Some spares; wheel cylinder & caliper rebuild kits, speedo & clutch cables & driveshaft u joints. It is a nice car. The hard work has been done, just needs some detail work, new shocks & someone to drive it. I'm asking $25,000, it is located in Kona, on the Big Island of Hawaii. I am available to show the car via Facetime if you're interested in looking at it. It will be the buyers responsibility to arrange & pay for the shipping. I will work with you when the time comes, just don't have time to arrange it. I realize that shipping a car my be a concern for most people, but I have shipped 2 cars without any incidents. Here are a couple of links to shipper that regularly serve Hawaii so you can get an idea of what to expect. https://www.pashahawaii.com/tools/vehicles/ship-a-car-to-and-from-hawaii https://htbyb.com/ship-your-vehicle https://www.hawaiicartransport.com/get-quote.php The closest shipping port on this side of the island is in Kawaihae. I would recommend using a container to ship it to the mainland. This way it would be inside during the whole journey. You can have one dropped at my house, from there I would have it loaded onto a flatbed tow truck & transfer it into the container where I would tie it down and screw blocks to the floor to ensure it wouldn't move. I have worked on numerous race car teams & am familiar with securing cars.

I've got a Ford Cross flow with a dry sump oiling system. There's no name on it, and it doesn't look like the Titan model sold by Pegasus. It has 3 different parts, there's 2 pumps & an 1/8 inch spacer. I can't seem to get it to stop leaking between the pumps & the spacer. Does anyone have any experience sealing these? I tried Loctite 518 gasket eliminator with no success. Also, the oil pressure seem a bit high; 100+ lbs in 4th gear at a steady 3500 RPM. Should I adjust the oil pressure relief on the pump in or out? And, what would be a good pressure? Many thanks for any & all help, Kurt

Many thanks to all for your responses. This gives me a lot to think about, but they are all of the same vein. I've got a dry sump on my car which means buying 7 quarts, so I just wanted to be right the first time. Wish I could still get Castrol XLR 20w-50 like I ran in my Mini; but that was a long time ago. Cheers, Kato

Just thought I'd throw this out...What's everyone running for oil in a Cross Flow that doesn't get raced, & only driven hard occasionally. Thanks, Kato

I bought a set of anvils & the upper wheel from a machinist awhile ago & built the frame. The wheel & anvils are all precision machined & have bearing to help ease the rolling. The frame in built out of 2 X 3 3/16 (.187) wall tubing so it is stout and has been tig welded together. I had it powder coated semigloss black. I great plans to learn how to use it & make gas tanks for all of the custom motorcycles I was going to build. Since moving to Hawaii, I have found the DMV doesn't like anything that isn't stock. I went to court to get my motorcycle registered, & was told it was like the Toyota Airbag recall, and that it was not safe. I had to make bumpers for my '63 Super 7 even thou didn't come with bumpers. I used a piece of conduit, which I take off right after passing the annual safety inspection. So, my priorities have changed. The wheel, anvils and frame are not light so shipping is going to be a challenge. I will research it & update the posting soonest. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15808&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15809&stc=1

I bumped my brake master cylinder reservoir this morning while doing some tiding up under the bonnet. Promptly broke the top off. Anyone know where I might find another? Thanks, Kurthttp://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15077&stc=1

They are 8 1/8 on the inside.

I have the following parts for sale. All are priced to sell. Stock radiator, leaks. You'll need to find an old school radiator shop to have it soldered. $25 Stock cooling fan, works. This is the type that bolts to the front cross member. $25 9 row oil cooler, 11 1/2" long, has BSP thread fittings. $50 I will ship everything USPS as I live in Hawaii & this is the least expensive way to ship things to the mainland. If you need it quickly, I can do that too. Thanks for looking, Kurt http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14967&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14969&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14970&stc=1

Did you find any? I have a pair with all of the mounting hardware. I can get you pictures...Kurt

I have a nose available. Let me know if you'd like pictures. Its not as rough as the one in the photos & is your for the price of shipping. Kurt

I have 6 7 X 16 wheels, 1 is brand new still in the box. They have a 3 3/4 in (95mm) bolt pattern, and come 3/8 x 24 lug nuts. I'm guessing they'll fit early cars. You can have them for free, all you have to do is pay for the shipping from Hawaii. You knew there had to be a catch didn't you. I had 5 wheels shipped here from Arizona & it was around $150. Thanks, Kurt Sorry, they're gone. Thanks for looking.

Tom, Good to know. So far, I have gone down 1 step in amperage size from what xcarguy suggested and everything seems to be working. Thanks, Kurt

I would, but there's no value on it nor is anything written on the wiring diagram I have. So far, I have gone down 1 step in amperage size from what xcarguy suggested and everything seems to be working. Thanks for the input, Kurt

Cool, this is exactly what I was looking for. Many thanks for sending it along. Enjoy your Thanksgiving, Kurt

Hey Ya'll, I didn't have much else going on, so I thought I would convert my '82 Lotus/Caterham from circuit breakers to fuses. As an explanation, I live in Hawaii & if I was on the other side of the island & one of the circuit breakers decided to pack it in, I'd be in a bad way. Hence the idea to convert to fuses. Does anyone know what amperage fuses I should be running for the following circuits? Headlights Brake Lights Dash Lights Turn Signals Horn Wipers Radiator Fan Fuel pump Many Thanks, Kurt