KOnahic

Thanks for link. I called them & most of what they have is for a different style master cylinder. We tried. Thanks again, Kurt

Many thanks for all of the leads. I'm hoping that I don't have to replumb the brake system. This will get me going in the right direction. Kurt

I tried posting this under "General Tech", and received one response, which led me to Pegasus racing. Unfortunately, they weren't able to help me out. Anyone have any more ideas? Any help is greatly appreciated. I have a Lockheed Brake master cylinder that is leaking. Part number 3211-426, with a .700 bore. I have tried cleaning out all of the gunk, lubing the seals & reassembling it. It still leaks, & I'm having trouble locating either a rebuild kit or a complete unit. I have an empty box that may have been a rebuild kit at one time, don't know, it came with the car. I've read that they came off of Ford Sierras or Vauxhall Vivas. I haven't seen too many of those on the road here in Hawaii lately. Does anyone know where I might be able to get any parts or a replacement that will bolt onto a stock flange, for a '82 7? Thanks, Kurthttp://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13233&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13234&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13235&stc=1

Try copying & pasting it. That has worked for me.

I have a Lockheed Brake master cylinder that is leaking. Part number 3211-426, with a .700 bore. I have tried cleaning out all of the gunk, lubing the seals & reassembling it. It still leaks, & I'm having trouble locating either a rebuild kit or a complete unit. I have an empty box that may have been a rebuild kit at one time, don't know, it came with the car. I've read that they came off of Ford Sierras or Vauxhall Vivas. I haven't seen too many of those on the road here in Hawaii lately. Does anyone know where I might be able to get any parts or a replacement that will bolt onto a stock flange, for a '82 7? Many thanks, Kurthttp://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13179&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13180&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13181&stc=1

Hey Guys, Thanks for weighing in with all of the great information. Along with the carbs, I feel the need to clean my Uni-syn just to make sure everything is working properly. This is what make this forum so great. Being able to ask a question to which someone out there will know the answer. Thanks again, Kurt

I am in the process of rebuilding the Weber carbs on my crossflow. The guy I bought the car from drove it without air filters and I poured handfuls of dirt out of them during disassembly. My question is; there are air passages on each bore that go to either side of the throttle plates & are regulated by a screw with a tapered end on it just like the idle mixture screws and have a small lock nut on them. They have these small white caps on them. I can't find any mention or a picture of them in Pat Braden's book & the University of YouTube seems to still be out on Summer break. Does anyone know what they do, what adjusting them will do & how to adjust them? I've attached a picture. Many Thanks, Kurthttp://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13083&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13084&stc=1

While I haven't had my hip replaced, I have broken both hips, independently, 18 months apart. I finished my first Ironman race(2.4 mile swim, 112 mile bicycle ride, 26.2 mile run) 6 months after breaking the first & my second, 4 months after breaking the other. Nobody has ever accused me of being smart. My advice to you is; let pain be your guide during your recovery. If it hurts while doing your PT, stop. But, having said that, don't hold back on your PT, do what your therapist tells you and make sure you get full range of motion back when you're done. That is the goal. Meet that & you will be able to lead a full life with your new hip. Please let all of those that relied know how it goes. Kurt

http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=12667&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=12668&stc=1 I have 6 'KN' 7 X 16 wheels for sale. One has never had a tire on it, the other 5 are in very good to excellent condition. They have a 3.75 bolt circle, 25mm offset and come with 3/8 X 24 lug nuts. There is a special bolt to hold down the cover for the lug nuts. Nothing more than some small chips in the paint. I decided that with the 205/45/16's mounted on them, it was just too much tire for my stock crossflow & it was actually slowing the car down. I am asking $225 for all 6 because they are in Hawaii & shipping is going to be something that will need to be looked into. I recently had a set of wheels(5) shipped to me by way of Aloha Freight and it was $100 from Los Angeles. These would be perfect to mount a set of rain tires on for your track car, or something to mount a set of street tires on while you have a set of sticky tires on other wheels. Thanks, Kurt

Dave & Russ, What you're talking about here makes sense. The different offsets(for the lack of a better term) on the flywheels and the 2 different types of starter motors. This is just part of the joy of owning an older 7 & what makes having this forum so important. Spring has sprung, drive & enjoy your cars, Kurt

I found the teeth missing from the ring gear on my crossflow powered 7 last Spring. Since it had over 30% leak down past the rings I decided to rebuild the engine while I had it out. The pinion/bendix on the starter was trashed too, so I had it rebuilt. The motor is back in the car & as I was making sure(turning the engine by hand) it was on #1 TDC, I could hear the starter was being turned by the ring gear. I looked and the pinion/bendix was already engaged. After taking numerous measurements, I have come to the conclusion that I need a .625 (5/8) spacer between the starter and the bell housing. Has anyone else experienced anything like this? Without a spacer, is this what trashed the starter & ring gear in the first place? The starter, prior to being rebuilt was a Dave Bean starter. Many thanks, Kurt

All, Many thanks for the information. They(the trunions) did indeed unscrew easily. I marked(left & right) them before removing them, only to find out they are threaded left & right depending on which hub it came off off. Giving all of the parts a quick look over, I don't see anything majorly wrong. Its just that the car was built 35 years ago & the guy(original owner) I bought it from told me the bearing had never been looked at. He also lived on a dirt road. Having said that, does anyone know of a replacement bearing seal, or is the rope seal the only option? Thanks again. This is what makes this forum great. Kurt

I'm in the process of rebuilding the front uprights on my 7. I'm not sure which model they are, but they have the what appears to be bronze casting on the lower mounting point that lets them turn left & right. My question is: how do you get the bronze part off? I really don't want to break anything in the process. Any & all help is greatly appreciated. Kurt

All, Many thanks for all of your help & advice. I'm sorry my posting was a little vague. My plan was to switch to either 14 or 15's depending on which has the most easily accessible tires. So many options... When I bought my 7, it had 16 x 7's on it with 215/45/16's. My cross flow was have a hard time with that much tire, hence the change. I will post a picture when its all said and done. Thank you all once again, Kurt

I'm in the process of buying a set of Panasport wheels for my '82 Seven. The car came with 16" wheels and I'm not sure if the offset is correct. Does anyone happen to know what amount of offset I should be looking for when buying new wheels? Many thanks, Kurt

I tried using this to seal the aluminum body on my 7 after polishing it. It didn't work for me; it turned cloudy the next day. I tried calling the people I bought it from & they told me to call the manufacturer. They wouldn't work with me either as I'm not a dealer & referred me back to whom I bought it from. It costs $132 a pint, and I have over 3/4 of it left. It is free to whomever thinks they can make it work for them. All I ask is the cost of shipping in a large USPS "if it fits, it ships" box, $18.85

Are any of these still available? Thanks, Kurt

I'm interested in the other set of fender stays, and what looks like fender webbing in the plastic bag(the 6th picture down). Can you please tell me if the stays are still available & how much you want for the webbing? Thanks, Kurt

I realize this will probably open a can of worms, but what are people running for tires these days. My 7, when I bought it, came with a set of 205/45/16's on it and it is just too much tire. I know originally, they came with 185/70/13's. I'd like to mount a set of Panasports with some mid range sticky in the 14' or 15" size. My thinking is, I'd like to eliminate some of the sidewall flex, yet keep some of it for a smoother ride. Yes, I want my cake and I wanna eat it too. Anyone got any ideas? I tried surfing Avon, Tire Rack, Goodyear & Perelli's websites & all I got was frustrated. Thanks, Kurt

Out of curiosity, who made the dual braking set up you have. Is it a Tilton or ??? hanks, Kurt

Set of 5 Revolution Wheels, 13 X 6, 4in offset, complete with lug bolts(3/8 x 24), 1 locking, all in very good condition, some minor oxidation that wouldn't take much to polish out. Asking $250, buyer pays shipping. These wheels are in Hawaii & I will work with the buyer to find the least expensive way to get them to you. Thanks, KurtThese wheels have been sold, Thanks for looking.

I have the following for sale: Brand new (NOS?) Weber intake manifold made by Caterham for a crossflow engine. It has the 5 blot pattern. All it needs is a little cleaning up and it can bolted right on. $225. Racing style Brooklands wind screens. The aluminum frames need to be polished and the glass cleaned. The glass does show some delaminating. I would also replace the pinch bolts with set screws just to give them a tidier look. $250 for the pair. Enot fuel filler cap, used in ok shape. It will need to be rebuilt, and have the tube that attaches it to the gas removed and a new one epoxied in. 2 1/2" inside diameter. Drilled for what looks like safety wire. $35 All of these parts will fit into a medium "if it fits, it ships" box, so the shipping should be around $11. The filler cap being smaller will cost less. Please feel free to ask any and all questions.

I have considered it, but...living in Hawaii this can be problematic. If I was still in the Bay Area, there would be no shortage of people to ask. Unfortunately, that's not the case here. I will need to become more educated about these things. Thanks, Kurt

Skip, Very good information & pictures, many thanks. Kurt

Thank you all for the quick responses. All are a big help, especially the pictures. My chassis is set up for a 1600 cross flow. It has dual webers on it & runs well, when I'm on it, but I don't drive like that all of the time. Hence the idea of the Miata swap. I'm thinking I can purchase an engine/trans and do the install for less than converting the cross flow over to PGMFI. I was thinking I could save some time if there were motor mounts available. I've done a fair bit of fab work & just like most fabricators, the design I came up with was way too involved. I like the simplicity of the one s in the pictures. So, why reinvent the wheel. Time to find an assembly and get busy. Many Mahalos, Kurt