Andy69

The sleeve that’s inside the frame upright. The originals are 1/2” ID and 11/16” OD. I can only find steel sleeves that are either 5/8” or 3/4” OD. I can reuse the old ones but I’d like to replace if I can given the inside is slightly oblong due to wear. Edit: I just discovered that the inside bushing sleeves in the wishbones are exactly the same, and since I’m upgrading to a wide track kit I’ll be able to use one from the old lowers.

Thats what I’ve been calling them, maybe it’s not the right term in this context. I’m talking about the mounting sleeves for the lower wishbones. They are brazed in place, and while they still seem fine as far as play, they are worn slightly oblong, like just barely noticeable to the eye. I haven’t measured it exactly. I don’t know if there is a spec for what’s acceptable wear. This is on a 1992 Supersprint Originals are 1/2” ID, 11/16 OD and 1 1/4” long. I can only find 5/8 and 3/4 OD in steel. Im afraid the smaller won’t be strong enough and the latter would weaken the 1” tube frame at that point by reducing the material in the tube. I could use bronze but that might wear faster, plus I have zero experience working with bronze.

Making some repairs to the lower frame, I have the opportunity to replace the trunnion sleeves. Originals aren’t bad but are 30 years old. They are steel, 11/16 OD 5/8 ID and 1 1/4” length. Closest I can find are either 5/8 or 3/4 OD. Any issues using either one or would I be better off just using the originals?

Mostly street driving with occasional track days (although now that Memphis International is gone probably not anymore) and autocross. It’s uncompetitive in D Modified but it’s the only chance I get to really push it safely. Honestly from a suspension tuning standpoint I don’t see it doing much. Widening the track in front will give it more grip in the front but then you’d have to mess with spring rates to balance it. I see a good set of matched springs and dampers having a much bigger effect.

What if it IS broke? 🙂

Had a small incident with my 7 last year, repairs are minor but I’m taking the opportunity to upgrade dampers and a few other things. I have to replace one side of the suspension so I figured it would be a great time to upgrade to the wide track. I know it would help with the tendency for understeer but I’ve got the spring rates sorted to the point where it’s not really necessary as the car handles pretty neutrally. Opinions?

Good advice, I’ll check it out. No luck on finding a rebuild kit yet. Would the quick rack be a Caterham only part or is it something they grabbed off another car?

It’s a quick rack. I would think they are rebuildable, no?

1992 Supersport with a 1.4 K Took the car to the autocross this weekend. An odd thing happened. The steering stuck for a moment a couple of times. Went to turn left and it wouldn’t turn, turned harder and it broke free. Happened once more, not as bad, but still required more effort to break it free, after that it was fine. No obvious things wrong with the wheel or column that I could see without taking anything apart. The car was fine on the drive home and I took a good hard look at it and there aren’t any noises or anything indicating anything wrong. Nothing near the column that might catch on it somehow. I also couldn’t get it to do it while parked so I could see what it was doing. Any ideas?

Nicely made! So I take it they work ok just on the bottom like that? The reason I ask is I cracked my left side one, which surprised me since that’s the side the exhaust is on. I was thinking I needed something that went a little higher. I can fabricate something like yours but making one out of tube would have to be farmed out since I don’t have the right equipment for DIY. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How does your nerf bar arrangement work? Did you fabricate from scratch or modify something? I’m trying to figure out how to make it work so I don’t destroy the rear fenders. I’ve figured out how to get the car legal for SCCA Heritage Classic Street class but I won’t run it without figuring out how to protect the fenders and nose cone.

I’m in the Quince and Kirby area. I’ll bet it’s a blast. Mine has the fuel injected 1.4 K series so about 130 HP. My son and I went down to Collierville a coupLe days ago. He says he hates it but he always wants to go for a ride. He ratted me out to his mom about the donut I did. Lol. Id be all over it but I just sold a car to make room in the garage for the car that was sitting in the driveway. But like I tell the Mrs when she asks how many cars does one person need: n+1

Wait, now how is it there is another 7 in Memphis and I haven’t seen it?

Ended up buying an aftermarket cap for a Rover 100 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Softening the rear will make it worse. I had the same issue, turns out the front springs were too stiff relative to the rear. If you have an adjustable rear ARB, try moving it to a stiffer setting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Set it on the back cover then got distracted answering questions about the car, and drove off. I noticed it when I made another stop a few minutes later. Retraced my steps but no dice. Ive seen the aero caps, but really all I need is a basic non vented cap. Anyone know where one is available so I don’t have to wait a month and pay a $150 stupid tax?

Made some adjustments to the suspension, corner weights, and alignment, and dropped about 4-5 seconds per lap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK, an update. Some previous owner replaced the stock front springs with 260# springs. I dropped them back down to 175, adjusted the ride height. Handling was much better and I was about 2 seconds faster per lap. It still has a tendency to understeer though. I'm going to adjust the camber back to what it was (changed a bit when I set the ride height) and move the rear bar up a notch. Should tame the rest of the understeer. I'll be able to try it out at MIR tomorrow at our last track day of the seasonl.

Stock Bilstein dampers on a 1992 Supersport. Tried to adjust the ride height in the rear, left rear perch won’t budge. I’m thinking differential metals corrosion. Have it soaking in PB Blaster now. Is this a common thing and are there any tricks? I only need to move it up one slot, so no biggie if I can’t get it, my lard butt should even it out with the right, plus I’ll be buying new ones soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been emailing with Simon from Meteor about what to do about the springs/dampers. Should get it straightened out in short order. It’s a bit baffling to me that the springs are so stiff in the front. I keep thinking I measured them wrong, but it does understeer A LOT - worse than my compact GM totally stock 4 door sedan did. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes that answers most of my questions. Thank you. And at the same time confuses me as to my particular car. The title says 1992, and the chassis year (N) matches. But the engine is a supersport k-series with FI, which also matches the RI in digits 8-9 (decodes as “post 1992”). Is a mismatch in years like this common? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So I get the impression that Caterham used its own engine serial numbering for the data plate. Is there any way to decode this? Examples I've seen have the form of KD-XXXXX-XX with the last two digits being letters. Mine has the form KD-XXXX-XX. I ask this because mine is a 1992 model with a Supersport 1.4 K-series (fuel injected), but those didn't appear until 1993.

Is that at the wheels? If so that’s pretty good for a normally aspirated 2.0 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I keep thinking I must have measured that wrong but I double and triple checked. It would certainly explain the ridiculous understeer. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Well ok, like a dummy I shot off my mouth prematurely. I didn’t think to lift the car up and take the weight off the springs before measuring :clonk: and I also counted the non active coils. Fronts 350# Rear 180# ARBs look to be the biggest available from Caterham. So, it still seems there is too much front roll resistance. I’m going to order some 170# springs for the front and see what that does. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk