Andy69

Well I don’t know now. Car seems to run fine now with the same coil. Might be an intermittent thing.

Well. The new coil is blown - giving the same infinite resistance as the old one and the car won’t start. Looks like I have more sleuthing to do. One a higher note, I did get all the lights working - several bad grounds and a broken wire were the culprits.

Broken wires in the left taillight were the cause. Work great now. On to the hazards/indicators

Wait a sec, isn’t the one on the MC the brake failure switch? Looking up the Lucas pressure switch for the brake lights ( SPB401? ), I see it looks like a pressure switch on the brake distribution block right below the MC.

Yeah ok, I saw that and I thought maybe that was what it was. Does it need to be primed or the res filled to a certain point?

This car is making me feel stupid. The brakes, turn signals, and hazards don’t work. They worked before so I think maybe there is a commonality to the failure somewhere. Bad ground perhaps. But I was going to check the brake light switch and there isn’t one? At least, none I can find anywhere in the vicinity of the brake pedal. Also, there is a switch of some kind on the accelerator that is pressed once the pedal comes fully back but it doesn’t do that, just hangs there and doesn’t press the switch. 1992 Supersport K-series ? pic:

Gotcha. It’s a Lucas Sport DLB105. Available in the US. Perhaps there are others that will interchange

It’s definitely not starting now. It will fire but not start. Smelled gas after trying to start it today, so I started looking at the ignition. Coil tests 3.3 ohms across the +\- terminals and from the + to the output it’s infinite. Unless I tested this wrong that looks like a bad coil

Now it’s happening cold. Tried starting tonight and it fired and died twice, after that nothing. Battery holds a charge but only cranks for about 20-25 seconds total before slowing down. Probably needs to be tested at least. Found a couple bad grounds which I fixed. Also have an issue with the lights . Headlights and taillights work but no brake lights, turn signals, or hazards. Cleaned the hazard switch with contact cleaner, then swapped in known good relays with no change. Got some weird open/short issue in the rear wiring which I’ll address tomorrow. going to check some of the suggestions tomorrow also.

1992 with 1400 K. Sat for 3 years and change. Siphoned the old gas out of the tank and replaced with new, changed oil, flushed radiator, etc. Starts and runs fine for a short drive down the block and back. After shutting it off and then trying to restart after 5-10 min, it will sputter and die, then not start. Starts fine after sitting overnight. I’m thinking the fuel filter needs to be replaced, but maybe the fuel pump relay too? Been way too long. Felt good driving it.

right is the spacer for the damper (not used because the dampers are the correct length without it) left is the spacer for the tie rod. Did a bit of poking around, seems the fix is to use the spacer but cut a half inch to an inch off the end of the tie rod.

First two are with the spacers, second two without. do they make a shorter spacer?

Ran into an issue installing the wide track kit on my 1992 Supersport. Using the provided steering rack spacers the rack is way too long. I can’t get the wheels anywhere near a drivable angle. Remove the spacers and there is just barely enough to get the wheels parallel but it only leaves maybe 1/2” of tie rod thread in the end. I don’t think that’s enough. I might be able to get another half inch of travel with the spacers by drilling the holes deeper and tapping, but I don’t think it will be enouGh Anyone else run into this?

The sleeve that’s inside the frame upright. The originals are 1/2” ID and 11/16” OD. I can only find steel sleeves that are either 5/8” or 3/4” OD. I can reuse the old ones but I’d like to replace if I can given the inside is slightly oblong due to wear. Edit: I just discovered that the inside bushing sleeves in the wishbones are exactly the same, and since I’m upgrading to a wide track kit I’ll be able to use one from the old lowers.

Thats what I’ve been calling them, maybe it’s not the right term in this context. I’m talking about the mounting sleeves for the lower wishbones. They are brazed in place, and while they still seem fine as far as play, they are worn slightly oblong, like just barely noticeable to the eye. I haven’t measured it exactly. I don’t know if there is a spec for what’s acceptable wear. This is on a 1992 Supersprint Originals are 1/2” ID, 11/16 OD and 1 1/4” long. I can only find 5/8 and 3/4 OD in steel. Im afraid the smaller won’t be strong enough and the latter would weaken the 1” tube frame at that point by reducing the material in the tube. I could use bronze but that might wear faster, plus I have zero experience working with bronze.

Making some repairs to the lower frame, I have the opportunity to replace the trunnion sleeves. Originals aren’t bad but are 30 years old. They are steel, 11/16 OD 5/8 ID and 1 1/4” length. Closest I can find are either 5/8 or 3/4 OD. Any issues using either one or would I be better off just using the originals?

Mostly street driving with occasional track days (although now that Memphis International is gone probably not anymore) and autocross. It’s uncompetitive in D Modified but it’s the only chance I get to really push it safely. Honestly from a suspension tuning standpoint I don’t see it doing much. Widening the track in front will give it more grip in the front but then you’d have to mess with spring rates to balance it. I see a good set of matched springs and dampers having a much bigger effect.

What if it IS broke? 🙂

Had a small incident with my 7 last year, repairs are minor but I’m taking the opportunity to upgrade dampers and a few other things. I have to replace one side of the suspension so I figured it would be a great time to upgrade to the wide track. I know it would help with the tendency for understeer but I’ve got the spring rates sorted to the point where it’s not really necessary as the car handles pretty neutrally. Opinions?

Good advice, I’ll check it out. No luck on finding a rebuild kit yet. Would the quick rack be a Caterham only part or is it something they grabbed off another car?

It’s a quick rack. I would think they are rebuildable, no?

1992 Supersport with a 1.4 K Took the car to the autocross this weekend. An odd thing happened. The steering stuck for a moment a couple of times. Went to turn left and it wouldn’t turn, turned harder and it broke free. Happened once more, not as bad, but still required more effort to break it free, after that it was fine. No obvious things wrong with the wheel or column that I could see without taking anything apart. The car was fine on the drive home and I took a good hard look at it and there aren’t any noises or anything indicating anything wrong. Nothing near the column that might catch on it somehow. I also couldn’t get it to do it while parked so I could see what it was doing. Any ideas?

Nicely made! So I take it they work ok just on the bottom like that? The reason I ask is I cracked my left side one, which surprised me since that’s the side the exhaust is on. I was thinking I needed something that went a little higher. I can fabricate something like yours but making one out of tube would have to be farmed out since I don’t have the right equipment for DIY. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How does your nerf bar arrangement work? Did you fabricate from scratch or modify something? I’m trying to figure out how to make it work so I don’t destroy the rear fenders. I’ve figured out how to get the car legal for SCCA Heritage Classic Street class but I won’t run it without figuring out how to protect the fenders and nose cone.