repsna

thank You I have this I am looking for one which is bolt on where the mechanical water pump is.

does anyone know if there exists a bolt on EWP for the duratec engine? Thank You for Your feedback

Sorry to answer so late I use a 3.6 LSD rates follow

Hello Mike I realized it after 3 years maybe 45.000 km it was back in 2008/2009. The spigot was firm in the bush and oszillated on the the bolt!!! so maybe its good to become sensible after 20.000km or so? Since then I fiddled around with greasing the spigot and bush which was wrong. Sintered bronze bushes are not made for greasing they are made for oiling with special oil I learned this only now after studying the issue. One thing I had in mind was to drill a hole in the middle of the rocker (from the top) and install a nipple for oiling easily to avoid changing bushes. Bushes are cheap. But then I decided to experiment with needle roller bearings. I have powerflex for the rear suspension and for the front lower whishbones. But for the front upper whichbone the rear power flex bush became loose after 15.000 km. So I made (my son!) bushes from delrin and so far no play after 30.000 km. Hope I could give You some helpfull feedback Hanns Per

I always had problems with the rocker bearing. first after 3 years in 2009 with approx 45K km. The spigot and the oilbush (sintered bronze) got stuck. Thereafter I fiddled stupidly along greasing until found out this winter greasing oilbushes is wrong. I looked for alternatives also because these bushes are more suited for rotational and less for oscillating movements. I found needle roller bearing and this is what Install this winter: full complement open end needle roller bearings B 1212 (ID 3/4 OD 1 inch width 3/4) 3 pcs. per rocker from Koyo but also available from others when you search, as a spigot I use a piston bolt OD 19mm and length 68mm, thie inner diameter of the piston bolt is somewhat larger thant the original piston bolt I made a sleve from a 0.3mm aluminum sheet. As a thrust washer I use Iglidur W300 WTI-1220-01 washers ID 3/4 https://www.igus.at/product/131. look forward how it works our this summer questions welcome Hanns Per

cant recall, it was 5 years ago but I remember this was a point from the mapping specialist and one of my considerations. Low RPM was form me more relevant than above 7000 BRGDS Hanns Per I still have the fuel rail

on the TBs only for a very short time and after discussion with the engine builder and rolling road mapping professional I decided for the head installation and I am fine. I am not racing. I usually ride for several hrs and rev between 2000 - 4000 when overtaking harsh 6000. Consumption wise my driving style of +- 10l/100km (23 Miles/Gallons). Always teh same be it the 2.1 or 2.5 Duratec with 250 hp or the 2.4 with 260 hp.

Season finished 19.000 km expereince gained, I quickly removed the controll button and installed the control pannel and I am satisfied with the position. On shacky road I can fix a finger to the chassis and choose the desired setting when the road condition changes. During the first 1000 or so km I defined the 5 settings from full hard to full soft. For each setting I defined front, rear, roll and pitch damping. I am extremely happy with these dampers.

Doing fast road only having built 3 engines, Plenum, Roller Barrel, ITB, head injectors are simplier and for usual reving with fast road I think it makes no difference

my complements

does anyone have experience with this? I have a 2.5 block with crank conrod and pistons 1:12 compression sitting in the garage and would like to make a carb version out of it. What cams? is there a possibility to drive a distributor for the ignition etc.? Or is it a stupid idea?thks Hanns Per

some more feedback after a 850km/3 days blat this week , more and more I like the possibility to adapt damping from perfect road surface to bumpy roads. Even with a setup of full damping it does not get stiff as with the Penskes full hard setup there is still damping. I experience that aggressive driving is less stressful with active dampers.

some feedback on my first few 100 km with the Tractive electronic damper and my installation. I changed from very good Penske 3way dampers for the sake of being able to change damper settings while driving to adapt to different road situations. I only do road not race. With the Tractive Dampers from Raceshock's Simon (great Service) I use the same springs I had with the Penske's. There is turn press knob to make the settings: I tried this but it is much more convenient with tapping on the display. In damping quality I would say both shocks are equal. One has the possibility to set front dampers rear dampers roll and pitch. It is a great experience when one can change settings during driving and one can learn very fast about the effects of different setting. With the setting on all 4 parameters on full - damping there is no slush feeling and one senses the road very good with the backside. THE GREAT thing however is the roll damping in turns. It is such a great feeling when You go into turns and the car stays even!!!!! I feel more confident with these dampers in turns than with the Penskes. This is a first feedback after only a few days driving.

the pictures in the previus post show at which travel I I measured. I hardly can imagine in reality it would travel more and even if it wouldn touch.

here is a short clip of the dampers sound