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thank You I have this I am looking for one which is bolt on where the mechanical water pump is.

does anyone know if there exists a bolt on EWP for the duratec engine? Thank You for Your feedback

Sorry to answer so late I use a 3.6 LSD rates follow

Hello Mike I realized it after 3 years maybe 45.000 km it was back in 2008/2009. The spigot was firm in the bush and oszillated on the the bolt!!! so maybe its good to become sensible after 20.000km or so? Since then I fiddled around with greasing the spigot and bush which was wrong. Sintered bronze bushes are not made for greasing they are made for oiling with special oil I learned this only now after studying the issue. One thing I had in mind was to drill a hole in the middle of the rocker (from the top) and install a nipple for oiling easily to avoid changing bushes. Bushes are cheap. But then I decided to experiment with needle roller bearings. I have powerflex for the rear suspension and for the front lower whishbones. But for the front upper whichbone the rear power flex bush became loose after 15.000 km. So I made (my son!) bushes from delrin and so far no play after 30.000 km. Hope I could give You some helpfull feedback Hanns Per

I always had problems with the rocker bearing. first after 3 years in 2009 with approx 45K km. The spigot and the oilbush (sintered bronze) got stuck. Thereafter I fiddled stupidly along greasing until found out this winter greasing oilbushes is wrong. I looked for alternatives also because these bushes are more suited for rotational and less for oscillating movements. I found needle roller bearing and this is what Install this winter: full complement open end needle roller bearings B 1212 (ID 3/4 OD 1 inch width 3/4) 3 pcs. per rocker from Koyo but also available from others when you search, as a spigot I use a piston bolt OD 19mm and length 68mm, thie inner diameter of the piston bolt is somewhat larger thant the original piston bolt I made a sleve from a 0.3mm aluminum sheet. As a thrust washer I use Iglidur W300 WTI-1220-01 washers ID 3/4 https://www.igus.at/product/131. look forward how it works our this summer questions welcome Hanns Per

cant recall, it was 5 years ago but I remember this was a point from the mapping specialist and one of my considerations. Low RPM was form me more relevant than above 7000 BRGDS Hanns Per I still have the fuel rail

on the TBs only for a very short time and after discussion with the engine builder and rolling road mapping professional I decided for the head installation and I am fine. I am not racing. I usually ride for several hrs and rev between 2000 - 4000 when overtaking harsh 6000. Consumption wise my driving style of +- 10l/100km (23 Miles/Gallons). Always teh same be it the 2.1 or 2.5 Duratec with 250 hp or the 2.4 with 260 hp.

Season finished 19.000 km expereince gained, I quickly removed the controll button and installed the control pannel and I am satisfied with the position. On shacky road I can fix a finger to the chassis and choose the desired setting when the road condition changes. During the first 1000 or so km I defined the 5 settings from full hard to full soft. For each setting I defined front, rear, roll and pitch damping. I am extremely happy with these dampers.

Doing fast road only having built 3 engines, Plenum, Roller Barrel, ITB, head injectors are simplier and for usual reving with fast road I think it makes no difference

my complements

does anyone have experience with this? I have a 2.5 block with crank conrod and pistons 1:12 compression sitting in the garage and would like to make a carb version out of it. What cams? is there a possibility to drive a distributor for the ignition etc.? Or is it a stupid idea?thks Hanns Per

some more feedback after a 850km/3 days blat this week , more and more I like the possibility to adapt damping from perfect road surface to bumpy roads. Even with a setup of full damping it does not get stiff as with the Penskes full hard setup there is still damping. I experience that aggressive driving is less stressful with active dampers.

some feedback on my first few 100 km with the Tractive electronic damper and my installation. I changed from very good Penske 3way dampers for the sake of being able to change damper settings while driving to adapt to different road situations. I only do road not race. With the Tractive Dampers from Raceshock's Simon (great Service) I use the same springs I had with the Penske's. There is turn press knob to make the settings: I tried this but it is much more convenient with tapping on the display. In damping quality I would say both shocks are equal. One has the possibility to set front dampers rear dampers roll and pitch. It is a great experience when one can change settings during driving and one can learn very fast about the effects of different setting. With the setting on all 4 parameters on full - damping there is no slush feeling and one senses the road very good with the backside. THE GREAT thing however is the roll damping in turns. It is such a great feeling when You go into turns and the car stays even!!!!! I feel more confident with these dampers in turns than with the Penskes. This is a first feedback after only a few days driving.

the pictures in the previus post show at which travel I I measured. I hardly can imagine in reality it would travel more and even if it wouldn touch.

here is a short clip of the dampers sound

just tested att some pictures seems to be safe and OK

thks for Your input Bruce. Yes I am concerned about closeness of the vertical frame tube and the banjo. Its about 2mm under normal load know. I had Penskes previusly with the same setup without issues and was not aware of the bulky tractive banjo. Thats how I defined the canister tube. I will make a full load test to see ift the banjo touches or not. Let You know.

I put the car down today to set the ride higth with the springs. Dampers where locked. Then I switched on the controll unit (ignition switch 12V switched). The first thing I noted was the dampers are not quiet. There is a permanent high frequency sound from all 4 dampers. Might not matter in a normal car or race car will see how it does when the engine isrunning and when touring. Did play witht he setting knob which is very simple to handle. Keep You updated after the first ride. PS: car still not finished struggle with getting the 9A9 running.

I moved from 9A4 to 9A9. With 9A4 I hat a battery master switch for the - chassis connection. This I also made for the 9A9 and faced the following problem: When switching on the battery connection the fuel pump started to run (without ignition 12Vswitched on) and when I switched on the ignition the pump started again. Then I made some trials with the fuses and figured out that with battery minus connection A003 permanently and A004, 0055 and B114,115 with a master switch on the battery + side the fuel pump starts when switching the ignition key on (12Vswitched on). Would this be the correct way to connect battery and 9A9? Fuel pump is directly connected from the HSD. I am not sure because the 9A9 pinout specifies permanent 12V for A003 and B 114,5 as permanent and A004,5 as 12Vswitched only(ignition). in the pinout there is no ifno that A004,5 and B114,5 have to go through a master switch. So I am not sure what is the right way to connect the 9A9 thks Hanns Pe

Instalation finished I will bring the car on the ground next week and strat the system and hope to be on the road 2-3 weeks keep you updated anso with pics

Hello Mike, the contoller will be positioned as You can see on the picture between the scuttle wall and the swoopy dash. Simon from raceshocks said he installs it infront of the scuttle wall in the engine bay, but I want it where it is on the picture. The display for setting up (I think there are only 5 presets) will be put into the dash in the middle infront ot the gearstick, will see if it is enough to make the presets via display or if I will use the knob. It will depend how easy one can make the settings when driving on a small display. On the other hand I assume once all the presets are made changes will be minimal if at all. How is Your installation going? Will provide more pics as I progress Hanns Per

Got my dampers a few days ago, this will be the installation. Eylets of the dampers are pretty thick and I hope they do not interfere with the rocker or chassis? The front reservoir tube connection I hope does not interfere with the vertical chassis tube. Will see when the car is on the ground. Bolts are not tight yet. The Controller wil be under the scuttle. Electronic not connectd. Will keep you updated.

thks Mike, are the 13inch wheels in the shape of the original 15 inch wheels still available? I do not find them on the Caterham webshop thks again Hanns Per

The new CSRs with Avon ZZS or ZZR do they have a differnt wingstay compared to the CSRs with CR500 or is the larger diameter of the ZZS/R taken care of with a different wing? thks Hanns Per