Marek

Pin 4 on a YWB 100970 is rated for either 20A or 30A continuous. Why did it overheat? Assuming it is fused correctly, maybe sanity check the wire gauge to the connector and check for corrosion or a repair or splice in that circuit. If you can't identify the cause, add an inline fuse on the lead to pin 4 as a safety. Not elegant, but if the problem reoccurs, a new fuse will have you running rather than replacing the relay yet again.

Another recommendation for KTR. The only other shop in the area I can recommend with confidence is Boston Sportscar in Weston. For both KTR and Boston Sportscar, the work you describe will be routine. Whereas for most shops it risks stretching their familiar skills and comfort zone (despite being a fairly easy job).

I've only used screens. I've had mild motion sickness sailing. But after the first day, I am fine. That resistance has yet to kick in on the sim.

While they have improved massively, there is still a big gap. In just the last month I've had the privilege of spending time on a friends new 3 degree of freedom mid-5 figure rig and it is a clear step above other motion rigs I've used. We've been driving only Miatas and 991.1 GT3s (as those are track cars we know) and only on tracks that we know. In iRacing the cars do not represent the specific character of the actual cars. They have the general characteristics, but, for example, put me blind into a 911 and I can tell you it is a Porsche from the feel of the steering. The sim does not have that level of tactile subtlety. The real disappointment is Simulator Sickness has not improved. This has always been a problem for me and if anything, this new rig is worse. We spoke with an engineer who specializes in sim tuning and he assures me the sensory conflict causing the problem can be tuned out. So maybe the latest consumer sim hardware is much closer to professional gear, but I think it still takes professional expertise to make it work well.

We have CTEK and Schauer; a very good CTEK alternative which are also recommended by Odyssey and are sometimes cheaper. At last check, Odyssey does not recommend NOCO. As I recall, it had to do with NOCO not providing the full 14.7v specified for the Absorption phase of the charging cycle. Their manual goes into detail: https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/odyssey-installation-operation-and-maintenance-manual.pdf

A knife, once dull, is no longer a useful tool. It becomes just an implement for randomly hurting yourself.

What is the largest Seven? I believe a Rotus is 1124mm x 3660mm x 1665mm (HLW). Basically a SV with an extra foot of length and a smidge at the hips. But parked side-by-side, the differences seem greater. My suspicion is the somewhat squarer body (especially the nose) exaggerates the difference.

Anyone with Stormcap experience? I've toyed with a custom spec'ed Stormcap as a more useful car cover for my Rotus with a speedster windshield.

Rotus might be unique in the use of a rocker arm front suspension and in theory it should be an advantage. But Caterham never went down that road and others on this forum have commented that they are not fans. Any comment @Croc, Slingshot, or Mazda? (or others?)

Well summarized. I too visited the factory, but was too young to serious consider buying one at that time have only a set of original literature. I've been in contact with a former long-term employee who may have fixtures, molds, and documentation and have considered visiting them to make note of what is available. Feel free to encourage me (I have family in the area.).

For those of us for which winters are serious and not a source or drama, mild conditions can be unsettling. Good to hear condition have returned to something more reasonable and familiar.

McMaster-Carr carries coupling nuts in 3/4"-16; though also not cheap. The real answer here is longer rocker arms to reduce the number of exposed threads. I'd like to give the factory the benefit of the doubt by saying the exposed shaft is intended to make the balljoint sacrificial in a shunt, but that seems optimistic for an early 80s application.

A shot of the hood louvers from the factory. I have no reason to believe this was a standard fitment and could be unique to this car. There is an air-air intercooler below the rear most louver section and the car does struggle to stay cool under sustained boost.

The aforementioned balljoint sleeves. They are the handiwork of the previous owner. The pictured balljoints are "Moog Problem Solver"s. I can imagine the Problem Solver or your F150 ball joints are sufficient on their own. Here you see the original ball joints and the problem they suffer. (Note that the nut in the second picture was later correctly wired!)

Welcome back! I don't think I've seen one of these with louvers on the side of the bonnet or that close to the cowling. What is the engine in the car?