TEM

Looks like an interesting product but the company appears to be out of business and the product seems to be only be available on ebay.

Hi 61Elite3, I would love to borrow your puller. I'll PM you to exchange numbers and addresses.

Good point on the axle being unloaded. I'm sure when I get the new radius arms on that the alignment issue will be solved. Not looking forward to pulling and disassembling the axle though. Pulling the drive shafts out sounds like a nightmare.

I'm not sure what trans this is. Where do I look for identification? The trans has a large cover rear of the bell housing and under the scuttle. There are four bolts holding the cover in place. I had to open this cover to push the three shifter rods into neutral when I shipped the car to Ohio. There are three springs that push small balls into the shifter rod indents. These are located half in the trans body and half in the cover. When trying to align the cover to put it back on I, of course, dropped two springs into the transmission. Luckily, there is no oil in the transmission so maybe fishing them out won't be too bad. The car looks more complete than it actually is. Still a ton of work to make it road worthy.

My car was purchased without a shifter stalk. What car were these sourced from? Do they need to be cut down, bent, or otherwise modified? Is there a standard length for these shifters?

Thanks MV8 for the picture, very helpful and a beautiful car! I see that the axle U-bolts are not perfectly vertical. Is the diff input shaft horizontal to the ground or does it have some small upward angle? Found a new set from Chris at Sevens & Elans.

Why is there a bend in the arm?

Thanks, will do.

Yup, one of my ever increasing winter projects on this car.

Hello All, Same car different problem. While investigating the rolling issue I noticed the u-joint connecting the prop shaft to the diff was hitting the A-frame cross bar. The diff input shaft was not parallel to the ground, it had a distinct nose down attitude. The suspension U-bolts were also leaning forward. I found the right side upper radius arm was damaged, bent over where the natural bend occurs. Not sure of this is my only problem but this radius arm will need to be replaced. Does anyone know where I can source one of these? Does RDent or DB carry Seven parts?

More picture of the axle. I don't see a breather. Also that E-brake Christmas tree looks kludged with two zerk fittings. Hopefully someone can help identify it by the numbers stamped on it - sorry for the blurry one, no matter how many times or how many directions I took the picture, it came out the same.

The diff was bone dry. Added about a quart and a half, spun one wheel to slosh it around a bit then lowered the car. Pushed the car a few feet forward and back. It was a little stiff at first but no binding. A few pushes and pulls and the car was rolling nice and smooth. I can now push it around by my self without much effort. I think I will roll it around a bit more then drain and replace the oil, no doubt it will be full of rust.

That maybe why they change the read fenders. I'll be off line for the next few hours but will report back later this afternoon.

Looking at some pictures of Standard 10 axles on the internet, I see that most (all?) have a domed rear center section. Mine is more flat like a cake pan (see picture in first post). Could this mean I don't have a Standard 10 axle but rather something else? Has it already been updated? I will measure the bolt circle when I get a chance but wheels look original.

Thanks all, This car was undergoing a complete restoration but the previous owner ran out of money and the car sat for many years in this partially restored state. The axle looks like it was restored to some degree as there is no road grime on it and it appears to have been repainted. But I have no records on what was actually done to the axle. But if they did rebuild the axle they should have filled it with oil prior to reassembly in the car. So, it Looks like I will need to pull this axle and go over it completely. A good winter project! Senc, I have a typical wheel puller but any information you can provide on your puller would be appreciated. JBcollier, I have heard that ring gears and pinion are hard to find so depending on what I find, I may have to go with the upgraded axle (Escort? TR7?). During the restoration, it looks like they went with the wider S3 rear fenders so, maybe blessing in disguise.

Oh, sorry, I'm new here. Not familiar with the customs. Pictures Attached. Still working to put all the pieces back on.

Thanks JBCollier, I didn't know the manual was there.

With the rear of the car on axle stands, I can rotate one wheel and the other rotates smoothly so it looks like my issue is somewhere in the ring gear and pinion.

Thanks for the replies. It seems both suggestions require a removal. The car is already in my storage garage so no need to move it again. MV8, you say to drop the center section, what does that mean? The axle appears to be a single piece with a bolted on nose section where the prop shaft attaches. Do I need to take out the entire axle?

Hello All, I just purchased this car and having trouble moving it. It has been sitting for some 30 years. It will roll for a few feet and then suddenly feel like its in gear, like its pushing against the engine. Pulling the car backwards seems to roll better and "resets" the diff so that it can roll forward for a few more feet before happening again. I have disconnected the prop shaft at the diff and there is no change. When watching from under the car I can see the diff trying to rotate downward when the condition occurs. Could this condition occur if there is no oil in the diff? Will check tomorrow. Axle appears to be original. Thanks, Terry