TEM

Thanks SENC, a baseline video would be very helpful.

Shaft is 1/2" Overheats quickly = 10 min at idle outside. Determined by Temp gauge on dash. Reading is good when cold and when hot the water gallery where the probe it is similarity hot. I have hot pulled the probe to test for accuracy but it was hot. Hose and swirl pot I could touch, probe body I could not. Cooling fan a switch only so I always left it on. Temp gauge did not jump, steady rise to 200C where I shut it off.

Pump is off and looks good. Shaft not broken. All vanes are clean, no rust, and no damage. Water gallery is also very clean and no rust. Either I have a serious blockage somewhere or I just didn't give it enough rpm's. I'll put it all back together and try again.

If these pumps don't move much/any water at idle, then how do the cars not overheat in traffic? Is there a better aftermarket water pump out there?

My pump is of the earlier design (round pulley flange). When I used the scope to inspect the pump, it was difficult to get the camera in far enough to see the vanes, they seem to be around a corner. So I'm not sure a screwdriver will reach but will give it a try. I'm thinking I need to pull the pump to see what I can see.

Engine is a Ford Kent 1340cc. The block is a 109E but the head may be from a 116E.

I have not replaced the head gasket or removed the water pump yet. The swirl pot was removed and cleaned and the hoses are all new. Radiator has been removed and professionally cleaned, flowed, and tested but is not back on the car yet. The water cavity where the temperature probe sits has a light coating of rust but otherwise clean and no buildup of corrosion can be seen here or in the water pump inlet. With the radiator removed, I connected a hose from the water pump to the swirl pot therefore there is no upper and lower hose at the moment. This hose did not get hot when running the engine. I did see the vanes turning when spinning the pump by hand. Sorry for the confusion. Hose was connected to the outlet of the swirl pot and the inlet of the water pump. I did give it revs but the water just seems to vibrate rather than flow. I don't have a heater box. I also don't have a thermostat. Would this force all water to flow internally? I'm not sure if my swirl pot design will allow the use of a thermostat.

I now have the engine running but it over heats very quickly. The water pump easily turns by hand (without fan belt) and is rotating when the engine is running (with fan belt). There doesn't appear to be any signs of flow in the swirl pot. I pulled the radiator and had it rodded, flowed, and pressure tested, all was good. Even when I eliminate the radiator and just connect the pump output directly to the swirl pot inlet, I don't see much flow. The water temp gauge shows elevated temperatures and the block where the temp probe enters is correspondingly hot but the water in the swirl pot is lukewarm. I stuck a low quality borescope in the pump discharge and the pump vanes appear to be intact but I can't really tell condition from the poor quality video. Do these pumps need to be primed? Any other ideas before I pull the pump?

Thanks EW. I purchased a 12Sp kit this morning but will reach out to Girling to confirm. I can always use the SP kit on my Elan. I'll report back what I find. I never split my calipers. Clean them up best I can, install new piston and seals, and put them back on. No need to add drama.

Senc, you may be on to something there. The MP casting has provisions for a port on either side but only one is drilled. The other caliper is drilled on the other side along with the bleeder. But the two MP calipers are the same casting, just drilled differently. The SP has two different castings for the left and right side. From what I can tell, the MP predates the SP so not sure why they would do away with the single casting caliper, it seems like a more cost effective design. Since I have not heard any direct experience with the MP/SP kits, I will go ahead to order an SP kit. I'll report back any findings, good or bad.

Thanks. I don't know how different the SP is from the MP. I agree that the pistons are probably similar enough but I can see that the two caliper castings look quite different. I have included a picture of my S1 Elan project caliper (12SP) and my Seven caliper (12MP). Perhaps it is only the physical size and possibly dimensions that are different and the hydraulic components are the same. Just checking to see if others have used the SP seals in an MP casting so I don't waste time, really want to get this car back on the road soon.

Sorry for the confusion. These are the front brake calipers. I meant that I have 42.8" diameter pistons on my 12MP caliper VS the 43mm referenced for the 12SP calipers. The references I find on line for the 12SP show a piston diameter of 43mm (1 11/16"). 43 mm is 1.693" where 1 11/16 is 1.688". My 42.8mm measurement is 1.685". My question is, can I use a 12SP seal kit on my 12MP calipers or is there a specific 12MP kit out there somewhere?

I'm looking to rebuild the calipers on my Seven. The calipers are marked "12MP". I can find calipers and kits for the Girling 12SP but nothing for the 12MP. My research shows that the 12SP has a 13mm piston but I'm measuring 12.8mm on my 12MP pistons. My pistons are in good shape so I'm only looking for the seal kit. Deos anyone know where I can get a 12MP seal kit or if the 12SP and 12Mp are the same. Thanks, Terry

Thanks all. The Elan manual calls for a 5/8" MC and 7/8" slave. I'm thinking MV8 is right, I need to swap the MC's. But I'll keep the slave at 3/4"...for now. I'm thinking the previous owner swapped the MC's not to change the clutch effect but the brakes. Perhaps he felt the 3/4" brake MC required too much effort. Swapping them would help braking effort at the cost of a little heavier clutch. Maybe worth it to him.

That's helpful and matches what I heard from Dave Bean. Just hard to imagine someone would go to all the trouble to change the size of both the MC and slave cylinder. And for what purpose? To make the clutch... heavier? Maybe they didn't have enough pedal throw for some reason?

I am getting ready to replace the clutch master cylinder on my car due to a broken mounting flange. My clutch master cylinder is a 3/4" and so is the slave. My brake MC is 5/8" (I think). Dave Bean thinks my brake and clutch MC's are reversed (5/8' on the clutch and 3/4" on the brakes). I have never driven this car so I don't know how it feels with these parts. What is the correct stock size of the MC's? This will be a road car only, no racing (at least not yet ). Thanks, Terry

Heater valve? No heater in this car. The S2 Owners Manual doesn't reference a thermostat and the pictures of the water fill pipe also don't look like they accommodate a thermostat.

My S2 has the Cosworth non-cross flow Kent engine and the swirl pot bolts directly to the engine (no hose from pot to engine). There is no space for a thermostat. is this normal or should I change my swirl pot?

Unfortunately, my Elan is put away for the winter so I can't compare right angle drive part numbers.

Finally got the tank to an acceptable point. Over 200 flushes with water and lots of nuts and bolts. I tried a number of acids and cleaning solutions and none did anything to this stuff. It's not like varnish, that's easy to clean. This stuff is like sand when dry, very course and grainy, but turns to red mud when wet. Spent 4 hours of fill, agitate, and dump.There is a baffle in the tank so you have to clean one side then push all the nuts and bolts to the other side and agitate some more. Every flush was producing about two tablespoons of mud and that was after the big bowl of junk came out. The pickup tube is also now clear. One long, dirty, and painful job complete. Now on to the next problem area.

These drives are getting harder to find. When I went looking last year for my Elan, none of the of the regular suppliers (RD, DB, etc.) had any. They come up on Ebay every now and then but check the part number on the side of the drive, many look the same but have different gear ratios. Before looking to buy a new one, check to see if you just broke the quill (the short metal shaft between the right angle drive and the transmission). If that's what broke, you can buy new ones or just use a section of an old speedo drive cable (square end).

I have not tried pulling air thought it but blowing air in doesn't go.

I have one a borescopes but the light source is not strong enough and there is not enough control to get it close enough to see the end of the pipe. I don't have to do anything fancy to soak the clog in the outlet pipe. I just fill the pipe from outside. Since it's clogged, the fluid just sits there. No motion in the clog for two days now.

Yeah, I had my old tanks cleaned at a radiator shop many years ago but can't find any here in Toledo. I'm sure there are shops in the Detroit area but I have been successful in the past with self cleaning. so, I'll give this one a go and see where it takes me. But I still don't know what's at the end of the pickup pipe and why I can't blow through it. A wire down the pipe hits something hard. It maybe the bottom of the tank but I don't have a mirror small enough to get through the filler neck.

Not sure how you would get foam and a bladder in the tank without cutting it open. There is a stand pipe in the tank as you mentioned including the small hole. The stand pipe is great to prevent overflowing the tank but creates a real pain when trying to get junk out of the tank or all the nuts and bolt I dropped in to aid in cleaning. My arms hurt from all the up and down shaking needed to hop all the stuff over the pipe lip.