awatkins
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Posts
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Personal Information
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Biography
Too many cars to remember but menagerie includes a 420R, an Elan and a Europa.
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Location
SF Bay Area, California
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Interests
Cars, music, food
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Occupation
retired engineer
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Se7en
420R
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In the end threading the shaft until just before it prevents the clevis pin from going through got me a good height relative to the throttle; no cutting needed.
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Yes I have over 100 mile on it and heel and toe would be impossible without high heels made by Laboutin. However, not anymore, because since my last post I figured out how to loosen the brake rod locknut from above and therefore now have the approximate position I want. Any further adjustment will be to the throttle pedal position. In the end KS’s technique probably would have been faster, but by the time I had it all apart there was pride invested.
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awatkins started following Pedal Adjustment Struggles
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Getting back to adjusting brake pedal height: Today I made some progress toward being able to do the adjustment from above rather than within the footwell. I discovered it is not difficult to remove the brake pedal from above, which would be needed to have reasonable access to the adjustment nuts. However, I am currently stuck at how to loosen the forward nut on the push rod (the one that is not trapped in the clevis). The reason is I cannot figure out how to get a 13 mm wrench onto the forward nut while holding the clevis and rear nut pair. I suspect I will have to crawl into the footwell for this. The pedal leverage ratio is about 3.5:1, so that (I believe) 1/3” of adjustment should about result in about 1” of movement at the pedal, which from what I can see is about what’s needed for reasonable heel & toe action. I believe there is enough room in the clevis to allow that without shortening the push rod. But of course, I will not know until actually do that. Hope this helps. Alan Watkins
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Well, to be clear what I'm saying about San Clemente from 13 years ago is specific to SB100 because "the author" of the law represented that district, which has little to do with missing titles, etc. However, although I've never done a "document-free" registration myself, my impression from reading DMV docs is that at worst they require a bond to protect against subsequent claims that someone else owns the car, and that these aren't expensive. The key here would be to carefully read the DMV docs because it's not a new topic at all.
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In 2010 when I lived in Encinitas I deliberately went to the San Clemente office because it was rumored to be associated with State Senator Johannesen, a Lotus Seven owner (https://www.semasan.com/driving-force/november-2001, who was the driving force behind SB100. Sure enough, they knew exactly what to do without looking anything up. Whether any of that is meaningful 11 years later is anybody's guess but I would expect the chances are good.
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Yaaay!
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Tom, et al, Which referee station did you or are you going to use?
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papak -- SB100 absolutely does require any smog equipment that applies to the engine as of the year of the engine or year of the body, whichever the owner chose. California cars all had PCVs since 1964. Even so, what anyone thinks SB100 specifies is irrelevant. What the Referee wants is the only thing that matters. Many referees, if not all, require an actual PCV system. What you are describing is what Heloman did, and it flunked. What he needs to do is what is shown in this picture:
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It’s not hard and need not be expensive. Find someone who understands this stuff.
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Great! By the way, one more detail that might ensure you sail through: some people have said their referee wanted to see “PCV” hose used for that connection. Sounds strange but they do sell it at parts stores and it would be a form of insurance: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/prestone/belts-hoses/hoses/bulk-hose/anti-smog-pcv-hose/81d6b29f64f9/prestone-crankcase-vent-hose/prs1/cv1132?pos=2
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Tom. — No, it will not work great. It will fail. The PCV valve is to be be connected to the intake manifold NOT to the airfilter in any way. If you use that Caterham tube connect it to crankcase. I want you to pass this test because if you do it will prove that there is no problem with BAR or CARB, and I can confidently order my kit.
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“Looks like I have to route from the catch can to the intake manifold.” Not quite. Below is how it’s done. The only thing connected to the intake manifold is the PCV valve itself (as shown) and it has to be the correct end of the PCV valve. Anything else risks letting uncontrolled air into the intake manifold potentially leading to engine destruction from lean running, etc. Explanation of exactly what PCV valves do. This is worth understanding: https://innovationdiscoveries.space/what-does-a-pcv-valve-do-best-answer/ (Don’t know what “OEM System” refers to below, not my drawing)
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Good. So you will have no problem. When’s your appointment?
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The real issue is what the inspector will accept. Asking ahead of the appointment will save a lot of grief.
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This subject calls for some care. I have heard that the so-called “closed system” requirement in reality varies from referee to referee. There are at least two interpretations of what “closed system” means: 1. The crankcase is connected to the air cleaner housing by a hose or tube, and is otherwise not open to the atmosphere. 2. The crankcase is connected to the intake manifold (i.e downsteam from the throttle body(s)) via a positive crankcase ventilation valve which carefully meters the ingress of fumes so as not to interfere with the air/fuel mixture. It is my understanding the modern Caterhams come with neither. So it’s not clear to me Tom is “probably good to go.” If anyone has facts to the contrary I would like to hear them.
