joe7

Henry posted all the info you will need. To summarize: Starting with the engine. I had a 1500 non crossflow bored out to the same displacement as the Elan twincam, 1558cc. Worked out very nice as the engine needed a complete rebuild. I think a 1600 crossflow would also do nicely. Much cheaper than a twin cam as the head work isn't cheap. Going down the stroker path on a 1600 to a 1750 probably isn't worth it either. Cost add up quickly however if a massive rebuild is required, that might be a maybe or just a simple over bore. If you don't have them the next thing is the motor mounts. Bell housings are a bit different and the Elan type would be the proper one. 3 rail transmissions from an Elan or early Cortina's will work fine, but you will need to get a gear box extension. There are Ford sourced heavy cast iron ones and also lighter aluminum ones to chose from. Early 7s used a Triumph sourced extension with a Lotus adapter to bolt on. Another option is the later trans from a Cortina's with an integrated shifter single rail. Then make sure you get the proper bearing that fits the trans input shaft and flywheel. There are 2 clutch types so make sure its a compatible set, clutch plate, disc, bearing and bearing carrier. You also need to source a complete drive shaft. Hope this helps. Any more ? just ask the forum is full of knowledge people.

Just gotta ask! What are the 2 "domes" on the bonnet in front of the windscreen for and the 2 above the carb scoop?

As Henry suggested, first decide what gear ratios you have. Time to simplify this shifter setup issue. You will probably need to rebuild/refresh the trans. If so, just replace the tail shaft with the common ones for Elans and Cortinas. Or as in the Dave Bean catalog, just install a cover plate over the rear most port. For either option get the type of remote used in some later 7s that originally came from a Cortina. Those are generally available in cast iron although aluminum ones are also available. I did a rough but close measurement and the center line of the shifter opening for the Cortina remote is about 2 1/4 aft of the end of the tailshaft. Another option is to get an original type used in early 7s that came from a Triumph Spitfire which requires an aluminum wedged adapter Lotus made. I don't have one to measure, but I think it sits about 1 inch aft of the end of the tailshaft. Once you decide one which way to go you will need to make sure your tunnel cover shifter opening is in the correct location. Good luck!

Seems like Henry pretty much nailed the different type of tail shafts. Not sure what your application is, 7 or Elan? On the bell housing per MV8, neither are for a Ford 3 rail that uses the bell housing with an external slave cylinder located in a boss on the right side (viewing from the front) of BH, which is generally used in Elan and 7s. Also to note, those type of BH usually have the starter mount open in the rear to accommodate the starter pinion. On the picture of the input shaft, you will probably need to clean it up and check that its in spec.

PM sent about early 7 transmissions

PM sent.

Here's an overview of all the parts for the remote. PM sent

Add-liteness. The images are for the single rail Ford trans. For the remote shifter repair, I didn't do anything to the trans internals. I replaced the shift dog which is at the end of the shift rod on the Triumph housing. The shift dog goes into the shift rails. See Moss Motors - Spitfire- External Gearbox, 1962-74 (3 rail) . Its part #77, unfortunately NA. Try the Triumph crowd, they should have one as that was where I got mine. At the amazing cost of $25 plus shipping. Hope this helps. BTW, I have a complete aluminum remote shifter which is a definite upgrade if you are interested.

I had a similar problem. It was the shift dog. Rather that it being "round" with flats on the sides, it was worn square. I guess after 90,000 miles it just was worn down. Bought a used Spit shift dog and had to grind the sides of "ball" to make it with flats. BTW, that's what Lotus did. Another thing I did at that time was to replace the reverse stop inside near the end of the shift lever. That was a small problem finding one because the "older" ones were screwed in while the newer ones are riveted.

What will owners of Sevens/7s do when the ball joints in these arms wear out and become a possible driving hazard? I also had that concern. So, I bought a pair of NOS track control arms. Unfortunately, I sold the 7 before I need them and still have them.

Good idea is to read comments from previous sales to get an idea of questions the peanut gallery will ask. Usual, tires, fuel cell, belts dates etc. Before going live, check the write up from the BaT editor as occasionally they make mistakes. Also lots of pics.

The orientation of the brass elbow is a great way to fill the catch can. Turn it up at least above horizontal. Experience on that!!

The bracket is, if I recall correctly, from a Cortina.

Reference the Dave Bean manual pg Q7 for all Kent motors, pre, Xflow and twin cam types.

Yes he has them for sale but last time I checked he's been Out of Stock for a few years!