DavidL

If the slave cylinder is external, try adjusting the linkage?

I'll just add that checking the block and head for flattness is straightforward and important. Buy a $25 precision straight edge designed for this (for example this one on Amazon), then use feeler gauges with the bar laying across the head or block in different orientations. On my Acura Integra, the spec was anything more that 0.002 inches out of flat required machining. I've never seen a flatness spec for a X-flow or other older engine, but figure it should be similar. My Integra head was 0.007" out of flat due to an overheat, so I had it machined flat for a modest amount (I think the machine shop quote was under $100).

In 2008, A friend and I picked up my Caterham in Seattle and drove it back to the San Francisco Bay area. This pic is of him driving on I5 in Northern California, with Mount Shasta (?) in the foreground.

err, take the wallets out of your back pockets and get the Soft-Bits-For-Sevens organizer that drapes over the tunnel, that has mesh pockets for wallets, keys, phones, earplugs. They make them for Caterhams, not sure about other sevens. I wear earplugs if going on the highway.

there is also the Hartley H1 V8 made from two Hayabusa engines. Custom machined block, Hayabusa heads but first test fit was in a Caterham (This is probably the same as the blue car above with the red heads): https://www.h1v8.com/page/page/1562068.htm https://www.h1v8.com/page/page/1821906.htm and the Caterham on a chassis dyno, wait to the end to hear ~10k rpm! https://www.h1v8.com/page/page/4553428.htm Cheers..

I like "XFLOW CAT" for a Kent-powered car...

Update: The nittos are working great as a street tire. The car no longer slides with a lane change! I have not tried autocross on them, but may later this summer.

I wouldn't diss young software engineers. A friend of mine is in his 20s, started with a Cross-flow powered Locost he bought from someone, rebuilt the engine, and now has a ferrocious Duratec Caterham (250 hp?) that he works on all the time. He's even got a 2-post lift in his garage! As for electrics, noise isn't the only thing that defines a sports car. I remember talking to Ian Wright of Wrightspeed a few years ago at a car show. He's the ex-Tesla engineer/executive who was doing the rounds here in California with his fantastically fast eletric Ariel Atom, just before Tesla had broken cover. Anyway, he said he didn't miss shifting or engine noise. I'm not sure where I stand, but an Atom is certainly a 7-like open air experience. Carving through turns, wind in your face, hunting apexes, these are some of the rewards of driving a sportscar, the soundtrack isn't the whole deal.

Easy to be at zero if the car has been apart for a few years! I just got back on the road after chasing a clutch problem for a couple of years, culminating in having the engine out for a couple of months.

If it's of any help, here is a screenshot of the Redline invoice, perhaps the part numbers can be of use (the clutch was Helix): Cheers, -David

My last email exchange with Redline was in January for the purchase of a water pump. Chris was on that email thread. The clutch was purchase in August or September. -David

My car is essentually the same as yours, a 1990 DeDion Caterham with the 1700 SuperSprint X-flow and T9 gearbox. In September I pulled the engine and gearbox to replace the clutch and a few other things, and after getting quite confused about what were the correct parts, I just bought everything from RedLine in the UK. I didn't specify part numbers, I just told them the spec of the car, and everything was exactly right. I bought a clutch disk, pressure pate, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, some gearbox seals, gaskets, a clutch alignment tool, and even a clutch arm fulcrum pin. I got a few other bits and pieces from Burton, but RedLine got me what I needed. I had talked to Dave Bean, who were musing about not being able to supply 71/2" clutches, and Catertham USA didn't have parts either. So kudos to Chris (I think) at Redline. Total price was quite reasonable as well despite shipping to California. I found a local machine shop to reface the flywheel for $40, and I got replacement ARP hi-strength flywheel bolts from Pegasus racing. The engine went back in the car and it works great. I can probably find the part numbers if that would help. Hope that's helpful, -David

If you wanted to just build, rather than manufacture, a modern Seven, I quite like the Midlana, the mid-engine interpretation of a Seven using a FWD complete drivetrain, which is much more available that longitudnal front engine/rear wheeld drive. See Midlana.com, there is a book, a forum, and an engaged designer.

update: I ordered the Nittos... $125 each on Amazon. They were slightly cheaper on TireBuyer.com, but they have so many bad reviews, I stuck to Amazon.

Thanks for everyone's thoughts. I've also found Nitto NT05 tires in a 205/50/15, which is a tad bigger, but may be fine. Interstingly, Nitto is owned by Toyo. I'll make a final decision soon! -David