sainthoo
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Everything posted by sainthoo
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Another day off- so progress. Installed: 1) rear wing protection (left off trim as I plan to have PPF installed) 2) driver’s side knee panel- left off passenger side, as I do not have the fuse box cover. 3) carbon trim at driver’s door- left off passenger as I don’t want to install knee panel without fuse box cover in place. 4) tunnel carpet 5) harnesses 6) fuel filler cover, washer bottle and boot carpet.
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I couldn’t understand what you were saying at first, then I looked at the picture - optical illusion. The throttle cable is straight. Good suggestion- I have lots of hose / cable zip tying to do, leaving that for the end.
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Well, both brake line and short ground wire are extras I don’t need. Will have to order the “top hat”- I lost it or it never came with my kit. Also need them to send me a fuse box cover.
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New questions: 1) what is this brake line? 2) what is this super short ground cable (have battery to engine and chassis installed)? 3) Can’t find fuse box cover? 4) don’t know if I need “top hat” (black piece) for speed sensor as indicated in a blog?
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Got the airbox trim done, throttle cable, rear fenders and rear lights today. I am confused as to why people resorted to bending the throttle pedal- plenty of room to adjust cable and set throttle stop in footwell. Plenty of progress this week
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Another day off, so I fit steering column, oil sump tank, plumbed engine (oil and water), fit airbox, fit air intake.
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Thanks for the input. I am considering 1) heating with a torch, bending or 2) taking to a shop to have the headers properly angled (cut off, rewelded) or 3) asking for a new set and trying to fit them up.
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Current problems: 1) Still have not figured out exhaust headers… the thing that has me most worried. 2) I have a giant lug socket (41mm as instructed) which clearly does not fit my lug nuts. going to plumb the engine, work on other things. Order a lug socket.
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Had a day off today- so tackled the rear suspension, which is now done. As has become customary - spent as much time finding parts/ figuring out what to do as much as actually doing stuff. Getting handbrake cable onto the second caliper was a bit of a chore. ** for anyone reading/considering a build** roll bar must be installed BEFORE rear suspension (no way to install cage with spring/damper installed) After that, then rear suspension.
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Tightening would make it worse. As it is now the bolts toward the front are more loose (allowing some backward angulation).
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Looking for ideas on the headers. I have the engine tightened down with the engine mounts and the transmission mount tight as well. The alignment looks good to me (drive shaft/transmission look evenly spaced/ aligned in tunnel). I consider shimming the left side engine mount, but that seems like an extreme/unwise solution. Here are a few more pics if someone spots a problem… 1 and 2 are pressing hard against 3 and 4 (so I feel like there is something off with 3 and 4?). Suggestions welcome. I feel like I need to sort this before doing anything else with plumbing, etc.
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Read that I was supposed to install exhaust headers- prior to- installing dry sump. So, happily I had only set that in place, needing to go find the proper hardware. So, I just fitted them up, barely held in place for now. Seems I should bend the headers a bit to the rear to get more clearance? (for those wondering, the sequence is 4, 3, 2, 1 from back of the engine working forward. There is only one way they will all fit / not labeled).
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Should I use some silicone, or otherwise try to seal it off from the elements?
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Been a long pause: big step- got motor in today (installed diff/drive shaft first). Managed to remember to get transmission mount in place before trying to install. So far, I have spent more time trouble shooting / finding hardware vs actually building. When I’m building, the progress is fast. Can’t possibly overstate how helpful Josh is at Rocky Mountain Caterham. I’m a little freaked out that bell housing doesn’t mate up to transmission cleanly… waiting for response from Josh…. Think there might be a piece that goes in front? Not full panic, yet.
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Okay, grinder, primer, rattle can…. drill new hole and done. added new life skill: riveting. This is the build thread affirming to everyone that anyone can (probably… not done yet) do this.
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Expansion tank bracket does not exactly fit like a glove. Per Josh- either use 3 holes (“plenty” enough to hold) or drill another hole. Only thing that matters- drilling perpendicular and as close to the centerline of the frame tubes as possible.
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I wish there was a thumbs up/ like/ LOL tag. Thanks again @Pokey
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Sadly, Jeremy Clarkson is my spirit animal, not James May. So, I just jumped in to drilling a new hole through the firewall in more or less the same orientation as my existing hole (just the mirror image)- no measuring, just a quick check under the dash to avoid drilling through the fuse box. I also used a foam brush to guide my height (coincidentally it was about the right height to set the bottom edge of the washer). Before: During: After: I should also note: the predrilled holes for the heater box bolts were way too small- drilled those out too. Added a bit of Rustoleum black to all holes after filling them down a bit- again, sadly being closer to Clarkson I used my finger as the paint brush (but there is hope for me as I used a disposable glove = partial credit. Not to mention I will find something to plug the factory hole, not just leave it open). Plan to do the expansion tank next. Why not? I’m now drilling holes hither and yon, might as well keep it up.
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So, Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham (foreshadowing here: think he is going to make build immensely less confusing) says you can 1) get a shorter cable (or cut the cable, I guess), then mount valve “upside down” or 2) drill a hole in the firewall on the right side to route as originally intended. Option #2 seems most appealing. Will ponder that tonight when I get home.
