jbcollier

Always best to start a new thread rather than tag on. Avoids confusion as to who is answering whom and makes future searching much easier. Adding an oil cooler doesn't really add capacity unless you go without a thermostat which is not recommended. The oil just basically sits there in the oil cooler circuit unless the oil is hot. So. if your engine doesn't actually have an oil temp issue, it won't work the way you'd like it to. Usually there is lots of room to widen a pan which will give you the capacity you're after and not affect your ground clearance. Baffling would be necessary.

Ha ha, welcome to my life. Been there. Done that. The list of the missing grows and, sadly, they seldom turn up.

Pack it with Vaseline.

Bought an adjustable pair last year, check again.

Fill it back up with oil. Clean up the engine bay. Get your beautiful assistant to start the engine while you watch. Shouldn't take long to find the leak.

My rear a-frame is much patched and reinforced. Good idea to go with a new one!

Mike Brotherhood sells adjustable top links. Occasionally one of the other suppliers does batches of refurbing your old upper links.

It's not distance, it's load on the engine. If you just putter about and usually get last place in autocrosses, sure, take it out. If you drive at all hard, leave it in.

If you are fixing a leak then there is no need to drain the oil unless it needs changing. Remove the pump cover and pack with vasoline. It is not a fresh rebuild and the bearings have oil already so just start it after you're finished.

Took 2.5 seconds to find... https://www.ebay.com/itm/135163107398

Using an a-frame causes enormous loads to be transferred to the axle at places that were never designed for them. The S1 system was much better (4 links and a panhard rod). The problem with beefing things up is that you just move those excess forces elsewhere.

Check the steering shaft slip joint.

Take a piece of thin, stiff rod. Drill rod is perfect. Lay it on the clutch plate’s splines and see where it points. Try it in three different positions. When all three points are equi-distant around the spigot bearing, the disc is aligned. While having the correct tool is quick and easy, I have done lots of clutches by eye and a rod with no problems.

Deustch connectors are the industry standard, not cheap but very high quality.

Sounds like plugged idle jets. Any crap in your fuel?

Greasy black sludge is great for rust prevention!

Due to a series of poor life choices, I have three of the mounts Senc shows to hand and I'll never use them. If you send me your address, I'll send one to you gratis. As I'm in Canada, you might have to pay a smidge of duty depending on how persnickety your border patrol is feeling.

Please fit a complete clutch assembly, not just the disc. You have issues. Just fitting a disc may not solve them. A complete, matched, clutch assembly is the best way forward.

Define “sticky”? Rusty, corroded and catching/dragging? Gooey, slimy, or tacky?

Ring gear looks fine, almost new. The teeth are cut like that to assist with engagement. The starter pinion looks well worn, not unusual though. I just knock ring gears off. Heat the new one to a dull red and it will drop on — not that you need one though!

The old S2 rear fenders are quite different from later S3 and Caterham offerings. Your best bet would be the usual suppliers in the UK: Redline, Mike Brotherwood, etc.

Bought mine in 1976. Used it for nigh on half a century, literally on hundreds of vehicles. Thanks for explaining how it works and how it doesn’t block air flow while it does block air flow… actually you might have to go over that bit again. (insert eye roll)

Unisyns block air flow and disrupt the operation of the carb. This makes it difficult to use as the real reading is only shown for a few milliseconds before the carb starts faltering.

Well, I can’t try it on your car but this gets everywhere for me:

Not the UniSyn! I use this style: You can get a right angle adapter for tight installations.