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Timothy Keith-Lucas

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  • Biography
    Retired professor, primatologist, in to toys. Own with wife 1924 Ford Model T truck, antique motorcycles. History of emergency management, currently volunteer Operations Chief for my county's emergency management. Maintain the working parts of a lighthouse.
  • Location
    Carrabelle, Florida
  • Interests
    dirt motorcyling, offshore cruising, anything mechanical.
  • Occupation
    retired!
  • Se7en
    1962 S2 SB1160

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  1. Lisa's 1924 Model T is pretty and lots of fun. She's pretty well finished work on it and is moving to renovation of another one. Actually, the enclosed trailer was bought for the T before I bought the 7. It just happens to fit. My usual 7 trailer is a generic 6x12 open utility trailer. Both are the least expensive options in the two classes of trailer, with the down side being having to own a truck to haul the enclosed one. Her Dodge Caravan Soccer Mom minivan will haul the 7 on the open trailer. If we both go to a show too far for me to drive the 7 there, she gets the enclosed trailer and the truck and I take the open trailer and the mini van.
  2. Good morning, savagete2860. Now that you have thoroughly overthought the entire issue, and we've gone down rabbit holes like tongue weight, I'd really like to hear your conclusion. In the meantime, some dimensions: Weight- Steel versus aluminum, with aluminum costing a bunch of money (about twice the price). Weight- Open versus enclosed, with enclosed weighing more and costing more, but better protection. Cost- Open is cheapest, and might safe you on the cost of the tow vehicle Cost- Enclosed steel is cheaper than enclosed aluminum Cost and weight- Single axle is cheaper and weighs less, and is adequate for a Cat. Those dimensions caused me to settle on a single axle 7x12 enclosed steel when I overthought the issue. Best wishes, --Tim.
  3. Consider narrowing down the issue a bit. Take one side of a jumper cable and clamp it on the big terminal on the starter motor itself (not the relay on top of the starter if you have one). Touch the positive pole on the battery with the other end of the jumper cable. Did the starter spin? If yes, you can eliminate the starter motor and the battery as the problem. Now use MV8s test lead to supply power back at the starter switch, and so forth. Good luck with it.
  4. That's one gorgeous car. Your flames look closer to what flames really look like when a speeding vehicle is on fire than do most. If you're hauling buns after your exhaust manifold fell off and a fuel line ruptured the flames go straight back. Usual representation of a bat-out-of-hell car look like a barbeque with too much charcoal lighter.
  5. Amen on sources of error, MV8. The FAA/TSA seems to be thinking that if the battery is not too big and is in your carry-on, cabin staff can put out the fire while the passengers pray, scream, and dig in their bags for fresh underwear. So far, I have not heard of it happening.
  6. I beg to disagree. Quoting from your FAA post " batteries are limited to a rating of 100 watt hours (Wh) per battery." I'm travelling with a GooLoo automobile jump-off battery, rated as 76 watt hours, at this time. It went through TSA at the Orlando airport.
  7. " Not all that fast but corners like a scared rabbit."
  8. If your jump box is (as most are) under 100Whours, you can take it through TSA and use it as backup for all your electronics. I grabbed one out of the trunk of my Miata and brought it with me to Puerto Rico for a family event - great to have in airports and BNBs. Just remember that it has to be in your carry-on; they don't want them in the luggage hold.
  9. Ok. I'm going to be comfortable with calling her a 948. At the minimum I won't be overstating her displacement, and it seems by far the most likely bet. If I ever take her head off, I'll be sure to measure it. Thank you all for both sharing your wisdom with me and engaging in a really interesting discussion. I've learned a lot more than just her likely displacement. God rest ye merry gentlemen. --Tim.
  10. She raced in "FP"
  11. That may be as close to certainty as I can get until I experience a "Catastrophic failure," leave broken parts and oil all over the road, and then have other reasons to pull the head. Thanks for your wisdom.
  12. I was hoping to resolve the issue without taking the head off to measure the bore and stroke. The car was factory assembled, and I think we've established that it started life with a 948cc engine, but the term "race prepared BMC "A"" could hide all sorts of mischief.
  13. Not quite sure that I understand the question, Scott, but my casting marks are identical to those posted by MV8 above, ergo it at least started life as a 948cc engine. I have an email into Hayes Harris, who knew the car in the early 1960s when it was racing - he was a kid hanging out at the owner's garage. He's now the owner of Wire Wheels, a sports/racing car dealer in Vero Beach, Florida and sold the car to me. His ad for the car did say that the engine was "a race prepared BMC "A" series..."
  14. Quote "803, 848, 947, 948, 970, 997, 998, 1070, 1097, 1098, 1275, but who's counting..." Pretty soon you rev it up and a piston breaks through to the water jacket.....spoils your whole day.
  15. Grinch! You would do that to an 80 year-old kid's dreams a few days before Christmas? Shame on you! That is a very reasonable concern, and thank you for bringing it up. I'll check with Hayes Harris of Wire Wheels in Vero Beach about any history of serious engine work. He knew the car while it was racing (1962-66) and before it went into storage for 56 years. Thanks. --Tim.
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