Reiver

Question...the lime green one looks correct...the red one not so much.

I bought a 1/4 " Lexan 9x36 off of Amazon...just needs some edge trimming. Anything less than 1/4 in. is too thin.... wind'll make her flap.

The rear window really works great with the half hood in reducing cabin turbulence.... have not tried it with the doors/no top yet. Very pleased.

The issue with my r400 when I first bought it was unbeknownst to me that the front wheels were also a set of rear wheels...too wide. When the guys replaced the tires I was not there to note this...and they were off the car and I brought them home. I used spacers until a proper front set was found.... I love the 13's for the lightness and grip..... the handling is much lighter than my HPC with 15's. That is a great option.... thanks for the post

I love my lift..... best tool in the garage..

Took the top off and side screens and replaced the doors. With the doors on and the rear 'window' the cockpit is a much quieter/less turbulent area....very nice change. This at 70/80ish mph... our local cruising speeds

Welcome.... I bought an older model sight unseen.... liked it so much I bought another one...an r400. Fantastic cars for driving as it should be. Josh is a straight shooter btw.... we've dealt professionally over a few things. He set my r400 up for the street. What kind of time frame is it for a new build?

Took the r400 out for a drive as I've been playing with reducing cockpit turbulence...this is for the road but I'm often at the 60/75 mph level due to location. I hate losing ball caps :). I have the larger wind wings but have cut them down topside to properly clear the half hood...the half hood is on all summer due to our heat. the ambient temp when I went out was 100 F. The hood makes a great dif without direct sun. I put a Lexan piece..9"x36" (shaped) across the rear bar.... I find this works well with the hood... not so effective without but no worse either. It needs to be 1/4 in so as not to 'flap' when the hood is off. The other is how well the cooling system works....I was goosing it and running hard uphill at 60 to 80 mph and it barely got beyond 1 o'clock on the temp gauge and settled at the 180ish/12 if driving at a lesser rate. Strangely I found the footwell heat to be hardly noticeable...much less than the '98 HPC. Perhaps because the pipes are on the passenger side? No idea, but didn't notice that at all. I'll have to check with the doors on only and see if that rear window is an assist. Just an FYI. Love this thing.

Oh, I see.... for the road a dry sump isn't required But...big but, it allows for more clearance underneath and that can be critical on a Caterham on the road.... my HPC's wet sump shows the issue in very nice alloy welds. On my r400 the lowest point is the bell housing and that comes with a steel guard plate on it. They used a dry sump on the C8 Corvette to be able to lower the engine in the frame... better weight distro. A wet sump, on a Caterham, also calls for trade offs...hence the baffle in the HPC as they couldn't go deep enough for a proper sump and even with the shallower sump it was often hit/holed. I like the idea of the Duratec pump driven where it is as opposed to an external belt...it makes for a neater engine set up and, hopefully, more robust that a belt driven deal.

Yeah, very hard to tell the source.... good luck...oh, one other thing...lining up the sump, windage tray etc... is a bit finicky so get some shoulderless studs to put into the block as guides on either side. once in place and you have a few bolts in remove them and carry on. That works very well.

Also, I had a slight leak prior to changing the gasket sump... I thought from the front crank seal but it was very slight. When replacing the pan/gasket I coated both sides with Reinzosil lightly but more in the block joinery where it meets the front/rear pieces. After doing so I had no leaks whatsoever.... dry as a bone. Amazon.com: Victor Reinz 70-31414-10 Reinzosil RTV Silicone - 70 ml Tube : Health & Household

Looks right, this is what I bought...the same as that was in place...I'd replace it every time you removed the sump as the gasket part does lose its form....if you reused it you'd have leaks. Given the last time mine was changed, and how good the baffle looked (zero degradation) I'd not change it very often.... another 7 years or so. VAUXHALL OPEL 2.0 C20NE C20XE C20LET TURBO OIL PAN SUMP GASKET ELRING | eBay p.s. even tho you will drain prior to removing the sump a lot of oil will remain so be careful not to take a bath...what you see in the pic is what remained after draining the sump in the traditional manner....

I had to get the baffle from Caterham England.... but you could check around. I also bought the gasket/wind tray combo as opposed to a separate gasket deal. I used an approved sealant on the gasket itself and especially where the block joins the front/rear engine pieces.... you will note the joined areas. The old baffle was 7 years old but was 'as new'...no degradation at all. Still, piece of mind etc.

Where was that pic taken... I think I recognize the Bug....nice headlamps on your 7, looks cool

I am guessing you have a dry sump system then ...I was unaware of that possible problem...man, that does suck. I hope they assisted you thru the issue.