ptegler

no reason to be sorry.... saw the 98 and thought cool! even later than mine so might have MANY similarities. ,,,then saw the 1992. Still though these two should be quite close to the same. Yours is the only other I've seen that used the Ford Probe turn signal/bright lights switch besides mine. (took quite awhile for me to find what that was sources from.... (Factory Five guys on their forum use them)) let us all know as you dive in, what quirks, how the hell.... , WTFs, etc you run across. :-) We're all learning from each other at the same time, old and new. ptegler

as what's on your title... but didn't Custers crew stamp a number on the cross bar that supports the steering column in the engine compartment just forward of your pedal mount assy. .

serial number? (of yours) mine is 1993R0700000093 we look like twins, save my interior is black and it's a tweaked BMW 2 liter (as originally built) ptegler

Fantastic! N / N/E WV? (near their orig origin that is?) he he PICTURES ?!! (please!) and ser# since it's a '93! ptegler

save the engines, the rest of the car appears to be 95% the same parts. A few mods to a-arm lengths (threaded upper knuckle exposure) a couple dash versions, (switch locations, gauges mounted through vs only behind the dash) chin spoiler molded into earlier nose cones (absent later on) I've alos noted a difference in mastyer cyl mountings. ealier seem to be cast brackets, while later cars got fully adjustable position Tilton pedal assemblies. But all still used the very inexpensive Toyota master cyls. Even my M10 powered BMW 4 speed, and the TR8 5 speed used in V8's all used the same Toyota master cyl.

#0 RED at 12 o'clock is master switch OUT, power to starter, and high power feeds (relays supplies) There is a 10ga BRN wire right under that #0 RED, hooked to the master switch ALT out terminal and is the main ALT BAT terminal. at 6 oc'clock, The battery + terminal feeds the master switch PWR IN, and has a jumper over to the ALT IN terminal of that pole of this DPST master switch anyone wanting a fuse block cover,, let me know and I can post the STL file to print your own. Actually.... Rotus fuse box lid.stl ptegler

@Marek I like your dash a LOT more than mine. I coulda'/shoulda'/woulda' simply used a ton of my MG and Triumph parts rebuilding this vehicle, but as acquired, #93 was still 95+% original, and I was (fool heartedly?) trying to keep it that way. :-P .... hind site. solved my 'log book' documented history of exhaust re-welds. I replaced the rear exit oem exhaust manifold with a much later tuned(?) center down exit cast iron 4-2, and custom jigged the 2 pipes that double S turn and snake out the side, before joining into one at the flange. I just this weekend inserted a double core flex joint aft of the flange. The silencer is a 2" ID, 26" long Maniflow glass pack. A s.s 45 exits just outboard and below the leading edge of the fender . It also got custom formed ABS fender chip guards. It sounds fanTASTIC! . That reshaped chrome heat shield was from the Harley bagger pipe that proceeded this configuration. And note right at the top of the pic, blue 3D printed fuse block cover, right next to my master battery cut-off switch. From the drivers seat, or standing beside the car, it's easy to reach under the dash from the side and flip the switch. (mounted this way as it's a full alternator disconnect setup) ptegler

can answer that one... at least on #93.... L->R headlights (off-park-head) heater fan (off-lo-hi) wipers (off-low-high) EMO buried under dash, pull down red pin oem had to 're-panel' it to match what switches I could find...holes didn't match My headlight high/lo beams, are to the left of the steering wheel, part of the turn signal switch assy, apparently out of a '88 ford Probe(?). The factory Five guys use them, and is how I was able to correctly wire mine back up. then I got stupid. 90% re-wire-replacement of all dash elecs L->R moved IGN key over so it's not right over my shift knob! START button headlights foglights heater fan emergency blinkers 3 speed wipers elec rad fan override interior lights changed the LEDS between speedo/tach, LED logoed indicators, oli press, BATT, and high beam that lever on the left, pull back alternates hi/lo beams. Up/dn on the lever is self canceling turn signals I hat that last pic! for the life of me, at a distance, that wheel looks redish brown with this camera only up close at the right angle does it photo correctly,

now THAT is something I could have used several months ago :-) (could STILL use, as I've been flying blind) I had to find them all on my own. ...maybe 75% done at best. (no paperwork with the car, only a couple pics) ...wondering if we can get a channel here just for Rotus conversations... condense it all in one place. ptegler

@Marek...was that you way of getting me to sign in here! ha!

regarding the Chris Custer produced Rotus line.... from a VW Forum circa 2007 (not the poster,just a pic included with the comment) p1elh5q1.bmp

...know that feeling all too well.... I'll update that later.... never get back to it. ... BTDT..... learned the hard way to document the hell out of it while your there! any info collectable, is worth the wait. I truly appreciate the this offer for info. v/r ptegler

@speedwagon ...was just re-reading old threads here... would LOVE any documentation you can supply regarding running gear, parts, dims yada yada yada. any and all is VERY welcome even now as I near, calling this resto done. (as if we ever actually are ever done.) tia Paul Tegler

the swirl of thoughts/options/mods running around in my head.... my Q's came out as spec requirements. Considerations for a swap to a Spit column and rack are in play. Mounts and etc are not an issue (home machine shop) Rack ratios and wheel sizes ...watching how far racers videos show them rotating the steering wheel, (as well as MV8's vid link above.) tons of search engine photos compared As much as I want to 'personalize it, leaving the Teglerizer mark on it, I'm torn leaving this survivor as stock as possible. ptegler

340mm here, orig from 1993. Checked again today... Spit is 2.75 rotations lock to lock. Mini Cooper (newer) is only 2... but FWD and variable rate PS. This Rotus rack in 4! While working behind the dash with the cowl off, I could readily steer the front end with just my hand wrapped around the steering wheel hub (wheel was off). Even my buddy tried and was quite surprised. ptegler

Granted you're ref'ing hard numbers. Lock to lock is simply how may turns or how far you might have to turn the wheel to obtain the max whatever your car steers. Mine right now is something like 3.9 turns lock to lock, My Triumph are closer to 2.7 turns lock to lock. So regardless of steering wheel size or range of steering.... this Rotus steering is WAY slower then the Spitfire. A typical intersection, the Rotus requires greater than 220° steering wheel rotation just to make the corner. In the Spit the same turn is barely 70-80° ptegler

ditto on the location... makes a big difference if/when people have a clue if you're near by or not. ptegler

tnx @Vovchandr yep... have seen those numbers. Hence my Q to the general public here as to what they actually had , turns-lock-to-lock is easy for anyone to figure out. My 'desire it to be' query, I guess really hid my quandary of lock-to-lock vs steering wheel size and what people actually had and felt about it. ptegler

What's the consensus here.... what's everyone's steering rate? EG: lock to lock steering wheel rotation count ? I ask as I have several small sports cars with a much quicker steering ratio than what this Rotus appears to have. I'm thinking I could use a smaller wheel, but that would only increase rotation input speed, but reduce leverage, and not reduce overall wheel angle change per angular steering change. Even my Triumphs are a full turn+ less lock to lock, and a Spitfire has no turn stops till the tires go past ackerman rotational paths from a stop ( > 70° to the direction of travel) ...wow..j never though about it...if you could put enough power to the ground under a Spitfire you'd have a factory built drift front end! ...I digress... NO WAY with this Rotus ratio So what's everyone's lock to lock? ...and perhaps a better Q...what do you WISH your lock to lock was! tia ptegler

Has anyone ever looked at, or documented the dimensions of doors for sevens? I say 'sevens' with a small 'S' as I'm talking across manufactures as well as any yearly generated model changes. General design considerations are what I'm looking for. EG: I've you could have them any way you wanted.... how would they be designed? It's easy to see a couple 'sevens' appear to use the same windshield (or pretty damn close anyway) The frames and even the number and positions of top snaps appear similar. I realize there will be slight variations here and there. What I'm interested in is hinge spacings, heights above/below dash level, or window, solid/openable lower section yada yada yada. I have set of doors that came with my 1993 Custer Rotus (real Rotus, not rotary Locost). But I'm wondering about designs and variations, and even considering full up custom DIY route. thoughts? previous threads here on this? flames? ideas? ... all are welcome. tia oh...and yes..... even have CAD, of a working 'hard panel' top, that can fold and fit in the boot! side note..... not sure how many of the far east owners are here. There is a MASSIVE bike engine Cat and Seven scene there! ptegler

As it currently sits. (Well.... after big time cleanup and much re-hab) As acquired, looks to be the last original Rotus chassis, and only one ever built with a M10 L2 4 speed drive line. ptegler

inherited..but NOT in a 2002. South American DB says it's a 1968 (based on the engine serial number +1662609+ ) The cast in markings of the head though suggest a newer head, dated 1969 (July..7 dots?) 121 T1 and the side of the head So my question here revolve a round some naming conventions and what it took to find the right pulley (at least as received) WHAT is the terms tilux nk mean amongst models/versions /yes? My pulley looked look one large, with two small right up against the largest. which is the furthest out (<4.5"?) I could find many 1 and 2 pulley version for the early m10 2L, but not many like thi.The distinguishing feature is the 'bolded' text query above. ptegler anyway.... i just trying to determine if this is an oem, from a '68 2002 of if this engine is a Hodge Podge. tia

I'm at this VERY juncture myself, but on a 'real' Rotus 7. (yep, that BAT BMW powered one) The oem Solex was so roached the butterflies couldn't be opened with pliers... I digress.... My 'quick fix' has left me contemplating cutting a hole for the air filter of this cheap and quick Cannon manifold / Weber DGV DD swap in. ( ain't hind sight beautiful) BUT...tomorrow arrives a scoop that might be a perfect fit. (pics to come). In my case ,my filter top will sit proud of the bonnet by less than 1/2". yep wider too as need engine motion room. It been very hard to consider cutting the bonnet metal ...vs side draft-ing , and yet another megasquirt buld by me. eh... was trying to stay originla for now.... As to the bonnet hole... well... I guess since the first owner lost the louvered original, to a tractor trailer tire on the highway after it flew off , post show) cutting a hole in a local made bonnet is no that hard.

had pulled the cowl to /fix/rewire everything. Was VERY happy with how cleaning up the wiring went. Even a new fuse box as the old one was black with tarnish and crust. Sure enough...had to go back in to fix some stuff. Wife snapped the pic..thought it was funny me trying to get under the dash to fix idiot lights

3/4" was my next step/thought. I've done a ton of Triumph Spitfires, roughly the same size vehicle, but normally closer to .7" for the dual master. This car came with a Tilton pedal assy with oem Toyota 5/8" cyls. (x3) I'm assuming the twin brake masters were just 'cool' and an easy way to deal with front/rear brake bias balance when playing roulette on which front and rear calipers were used. The Spit with front disk and rear drums, are matched pretty and use a single dual master cyl on the Spit. I've upgraded Spits to the larger rear drums of the late GT6 MKIII wit no ill effects. So I have to assume there is a bit of forgiveness built in. I like the Tilton assy since the seat doesn't move you move the pedals closer to the driver as needed. But it leaves a lot of open holes for engine compartment heat/gas/smells to come through, where if I swapped to the Spit set up, I could seal up pretty well. That route would also leave me with common spare parts supply. (which I have of Triumph stuff) tnx for the input @mv8 ptegler