Ferrino

This is still available.

Thanks - I appreciate the feedback!

Do you have any pics of the coverage of these rear wing kits, please? How is the durability with just PPF and no protectors, now you have some miles on it? Thank you!

Bump.

These are now sold.

Still available.

Still available.

I have a set of four used Caterham springs for sale (originally fitted to a set of Bilstein De Dion race dampers). They measure 11" and 7" long in the uncompressed state. The ID is 2.25". Condition is good but they do have some overspray on them and there are some chips on the powdercoat, as you'd expect with use. Caterham part numbers are 77843 (fronts; 250 lb/in spring rate) and 77844 (rears; 215 lb/in spring rate). Here are the links to the parts on the Caterham website: Fronts Rears $150 + shipping, or collected from San Diego, CA.

I have a used Stack ST8100 series race dash available. It was originally fitted to a 2002 Caterham 7 project I bought and in the end I decided not to use it as I wanted something with CAN connectivity with my ECU. I'm not very familiar with this unit, so please check out the Stack site here and the manual here. It comes with a wiring harness, three 10 BAR pressure sensors (one brand new, two used), two temp sensors (used), five switches (one is a spare), the U-shaped mounting brackets and the optional wheel speed sensor. I do not see a connector on the harness for the speed sensor, so I believe you would need to add wires for this (the manual has a wiring diagram). It's in good shape, but obviously has some scratches on the front, being 21 years old. Also, some of the black "masking" on the front panel (not sure what to call it) has deteriorated a little. I believe Stack still service these, so it would be possible to have the front panel replaced and resealed if you really wanted a cosmetic refresh. I did fire it up on the bench to test the back-lighting, text display and that the needle calibrates to zero. I also connected the sensors and could see the temps change and the low oil pressure warning. I'm happy to send a video if you'd like to see it start up. But I am unable to give it a more thorough test than this as my engine is not running yet. Asking $750. I'm in San Diego, if you want to see it in person.

Interested to hear the bad experiences with Westermann, since they charge a real premium for their products. Myself, I had a terrible experience with them about 18 years ago - not concerning the quality of the product, but rather some aggressive behavior from them when a shipping delivery went wrong.

I am restoring an imperial Caterham and had no Sierra rear calipers to start with. I bought a new set for 210 GBP, including shipping to US. They came from Bigg Red: https://www.biggred.co.uk/ Note: these are not made by Ford, but they reassured me that they had no issues with them at all (based on many sales) and were happy with the quality. Bigg Red has a good reputation. If I were you, I'd drop them an e-mail and see if they can supply a rebuild kit for your originals. Alternatively, slap your OEM units in the mail and have them refurn them - either with zinc plating or powder coating etc.

It’s really nice to see your wideband O2 sensor mounted vertically (as intended). I know that alternative mounting angles can lead to failure. Do you simply pass the wires underneath the chassis and connect the plugs in the engine bay? I had considered passing the wires through a grommet in the side skin, but I don’t think the plug on the sensor end can/should be removed. Thanks!

I've recently been repairing the rear wing rivnut holes on my S3 (I actually had to relocate them slightly as well). I decided to replace all of them (since I had the interior panel off anyway and therefore access to all of them). I don't like the use of rivnuts here, so instead, I used a fastener which gets bonded onto the panel: it's basically a big washer with a nut. I bought them from McMaster-Carr in 1/4" size. I used a panel bond adhesive by 3M (08115): you could use an epoxy you like, though. I then use nylon 1/4" bolts to secure the wings. A lot more work than a rivnut, but looking at the damaged holes in your setup, I'd think you want as wide a fastener as possible.

Got it - my other fun car is an R53 and I understand the switches you're referring to. I actually reached out to SVC and they recommend a 25 amp fuse for the Lucas 14W wiper motor. I think that's a bit high, but if you read this post, you'll see evidence of high currents being drawn, which I would not want running through a switch, but rather a relay. Correct - at rest, the wiper motor still receives a +12V supply. Like I said, I prefer the wiring scheme which uses a crossover relay.

Thanks. I have all the hardware to install the motor and arms: I just wasn't clear on how/where to bend the tube. Why do you prefer not to reinstall the washer? I have never used wipers in a 7 before: are the washers just not useful at all? If that's the case, it will save me some wiring/plumbing to go without! If you prefer the toggle switch to a rotary, why don't you just use the 35927 Lucas off-on-on switch described? It seems to be readily available and be hooked up directly to the wiper motor (though I'd prefer to have wiper current going through a relay). Maybe I'm missing something, but you just need an ign-switched power supply (with an appropriate fuse) and then connect it to the wiper motor plug.