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  1. Hi all. I managed to crack my heated S3 Caterham windscreen glass when removing it from the frame (to paint black). It's still intact, so can be used as a template. I'd like to replace with un-heated glass and am thinking of having someone local cut a couple of these. Those of you who were able to get custom replacements in the US: were they able to match the thickness of the glass, so that the original rubber seal could be retained?
  2. I'm interested in going without wing protectors on my fiberglass rear wings. What I don't understand is if I really need the custom-cut kits or if I can just get away with buying a large sheet and cutting my own. Is this the sort of material you can "wrap" around the edges or do you really need to have the cut pieces to perfectly match the painted areas of the bodywork. Not clear to me where the seams are on the cut items. Thanks!
  3. That's a pretty extreme comparison: you can have a more modern powertrain and enjoy the benefits of EFI without compromising on aesthetics and sound! By that I mean the massive 15" wheels and my biggest peeve: the lowered headlights. Slap a set of ITBs on a Duratec and I think you'd be hard-pressed to say it sounds crap compared to the X-Flow. I really can't get over the new headlight position. The first time I ever sat in a Seven, it was the original headlights that defined the look of the car. The new location is awful, in my opinion. I would have a X-Flow on skinny tires over a 620 any day of the week.
  4. Thanks awatkins: I was under the impression sequence numbers were issued right at the beginning of the process - it sounds like that changed. I had no idea that "labor" was used in the use tax calculation either! I work really slowly - does that mean it will essentially be zero dollars? :-) Hopefully SB100 will not go away - I always feel like it is in danger of extinction, though, and I will be left with a very expensive ornament in my garage.
  5. Hi all. I have a question which is not directly related to the recent CARB-related issues with completing SB100, but I'm hoping I can get some help, please. A couple of years ago, I bought a used (imperial) chassis from Texas, which was formerly part of a fully assembled and TX-registered car (it also came with a bunch of parts to get me started). For me, it represented a blank canvas, to build my ideal car from scratch. I am very slowly building it back into a complete car (albeit it with my own drivetrain, for which I have maintained receipts). I have always been unclear if I should initiate the SB100 process now (with completion probably still more than 1 year away), or wait until the car is closer to being on the road. I have always been a bit worried about the SB100 process being terminated, so was wondering if I should just present my receipts, pay my fees, get my number, and start the process today. If I did so, is there any disadvantage? If I get a SB100 number now, is there a deadline, before which you must complete the process? Very grateful for any thoughts on this.
  6. As someone building an ITB induction Caterham in CA, I am interested to know this too. Sounds like I may need to put a bung in the air filter backplate for the inspection. I'm not familiar with the RBTB intake, but it sounds like a massive pain to have to switch to a plenum intake to pass - do you have ECU maps for both plenum and RBTB?
  7. Sorry if this has been posted before, but I learned that there is a Caterham episode of the UK show "Car SOS", and it is available to stream on Disney+ in the US. It's Season5: Episode 8. A rather touching story.
  8. Hi - I'm converting an older chassis to 2.0 Duratec power and could definitely use these parts! I will drop you a message.
  9. Thank you both for your suggestions on the ferrule and solder methods for the M-Unit sockets!
  10. Steve, what are those terminals that insert into the M-Unit called, please? Do they just crimp onto the wires? Seems a much better solution than just inserting bare stranded wires... For the AUX relays, I believe you can configure them to come on as soon as the M-Unit is unlocked - there is a setting.
  11. I'm looking for a key-operated switch, to serve as a backup for the Bluetooth unlocking system (or it may end up being the primary key). It obviously doesn't need to be a beefy column-mounted affair, since only a tiny current will pass through it and I don't have the column-lock mechanism. Not sure where I will mount it yet. Any ideas, please? How about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Removable-Position-Terminal-30-1086-01/dp/B01MYXBTVZ/ref=psdc_5739466011_t3_B019I12414#customerReviews
  12. The Motogadget manual calls for a 40A fuse between the battery and the M-Unit. they call it the "vehicle main fuse".
  13. I asked Motogadget about this. They suggest you always have a physical switch (as a backup, in case your phone dies). That could be a simply key-operated switch or just a hidden latching switch.
  14. Yes, but that doesn't create more capacity - you are still limited to 1x20A and 1x10A aux outputs. It would be hard to get all EFI outputs on there (fuel pump, fan etc). Then you may need wipers, instrumentation, wideband, ECU...
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