Klasik-69

My engine is equipped with the Pectel T2 ECU, and I assume yours is also. My ITB is from the TWN/Borla manufacture but they are the same as the Jenvy in the sense they have individual throttle bodies and individual injectors. My initial fuel pressure was set at 62 psi and as I stated earlier, the injectors were the low impedance type like yours. I bought the Bosch 40 or 42 lb injectors with 16 ohm impedance, EV1 connector type from Bill at C-F-M Motorsports in Orlando. I also bought an AEM Air Fuel Ratio gauge which I highly recommend as well. And yes, you will need to remap the Pectel fuel map and may need to adjust the ignition map as well, depending on how yours is set up. You will need the Pectel connection cable that allows you to connect the ECU to your lap top computer via a serial port (DB9). The Pectel end of the cable looks like a big microphone plug. Most lap top computers today don't have serial ports, they use the more common USB ports. I tried several USB-serial conversion adpaters and software and finally gave up getting them to work. I had to buy an older Dell laptop on eBay ($120) that had Windows XP and a serial port. You will need the Pectel software disc to load on your laptop. And (most important) you will need to have access to a dyno to fine tune the engine and get the air fuel ratios in the safe area. Ok, having said all that, you may feel overwhelmed. I can help you with a lot of this. I can give you my fuel map and ignition map so you can load it on the Pectel as a starting point. Heck, it may be all you need. By the way, I lowered my fuel pressure down to a safer and saner 42 psi and installed a permanent fuel pressure gauge at the end of the fuel rail so I can monitor it as needed. The fuel rail should have a pressure regulator that allows adjusting the fuel pressure. It is the return line of the fuel system. The important thing is keeping the air fuel ratio in a safe zone, around 12.8 to 13.5. Keep in mind that 14.5 is considered ideal for perfect combustion but is really too lean for safe WOT running. It wouldn't be so bad if these engines were equipped with knock sensors to warn of pre-ignition or detonation, but they don't and even if they did, this Pectel wouldn't know what to do with it. With the AEM gauge comes a wide band O2 sensor and a bung if needed to weld into the exhaust. My car was equipped with two O2 sensor bungs installed, one before the muffler and one after the muffler. I used the one after the muffler. However, when we were figuring things out and I had the benefit of Tom (1Turbofocus) to guide me along. He had me plug it into the front one also to compare if we got the same reading. By the way, if you can get his assistance on your motor, it will be a great big help. He knows the Zetec motors inside and out, and he does know how to tune them. It was because of his insight that I was able to figure things out. He is not only very sharp, he is also one heck of a nice guy. Let me know if you need any specific information to help you along. The fact that you were insightful enough to check the impedance of your injectors shows you know a good deal about your engine. I'll do whatever I can to help you along. By the way, some Pectel ECU's are locked and cannot be programmed without the password, or have to be reflashed by Neal @ Apex. He strongly advises you not to open the ECU box since this will void certain warranties. The reflashing runs about $60 and includes a new software disc for you to load to creat your maps. Keep in mind that when it is reflashed, there is nothing left on the ECU and you have to start from scratch, a daunting task. However, you could then load my map into it and just adjust the parameters you need.

Xcarguy, I like your man cave too. Is that an AC Cobra in the picture ? I always wanted to build a cobra kit car, never got around to it. They share the same concept as the 7, good HP to weight ratio & light on weight.

Why didn't I think of these details.........walk-in cooler, pole (& dancer), big screen TV with theater seating......what about a hot tub ? Croc, I thought you live in NY city, where or how do you build a garage there ? 1700 sq foot is a nice size, don't forget the lifts. The four post can be wheeled around, two post are anchored.

Thank you for the compliment. I consider myself very fortunate to have it. I use to have most of my stuff in my detached garage at home. Every time I'd go to work on a car, I had to move everything out. Then when done doing whatever I was doing, I had to move everything back in. Heck, it took me more time moving stuff in and out then the time I spent working on my project. Since our real estate market in our area became one of the worst in the country, it offered some opportunities. Residential properties tanked out first in 2007. Commercial properties tanked out starting in 2010 & 2011. Buildings were selling at 60% of original purchase price. I figured it couldn't go down too much lower so I took a chance in buying this unit figuring to flip it in another 6 to 8 years, and the bonus is I get to use it as my little man-cave in the mean time. Not pictured in the shot is my 69 big block vette getting a full restoration at a shop in Orlando. Also, I keep my Z06 and the Z51 at home for a quick spin but will bring it to my shop to work on them. I do my own alignments on my Billy-Bob redneck alignment rack. Its amazing how resourceful you can become when money is an issue. And as you can expect, I end up working on a lot of my buddies cars (for free of course, what are buddies for ?)

Yes, the black four post lift you see on my picture is a Direct Lift like Xcarguy shows. Yep, it's made in China but what isn't these days. It is good and hasn't been a bit of trouble in the 10 or so years I've had it. And, all these lifts are cheap. The four post is around $2000 delivered. The two post lift with the 7 on it is an Atlas 9000 lb lift from Greg Smith Equipment Co., and it also comes from our little Chinese friends. It actually cost about $1900 delivered. The "garage" is a condo unit type of building I bought on a short sale as both an investment and as a place to play. It is 3000 square feet and very well built, and it was really pretty cheap since the bank owned it when I made them an offer. The floor was very smooth and flat natural concrete finish but as all of you know, oil goes right into the concrete and is difficult to clean up. My older cars are typically the oil leakers. Also, when doing work on brakes, like bleeding or whenever opening a brake line, brake fluid tends to get absorbed by concrete. Now, the oils, brake fluid and any other fluid can easily be cleaned up with just a rag. This finish is so slick that keeping the floor clean is much easier. I can just run a dust mop across the floor.

I hope I'm doing this right. I'm trying to post a couple of pictures of the new epoxy floor coating on my garage. This makes cleanup so much easier as well as controlling dust. A friend of mine does this kind of flooring for car dealers in their service bays.

I already figured Tom was no slacker, and guys who retire early do so because they're ahead of the curve, not behind it. Although with the current administration, being wealthy has taken on a negative term, I still think the rich are the ones we need to emulate, and not the homeless. Tail of the Dragon: To be honest, I was too chicken to run it last year with the 7 since I didn't have enough seat time in the car to feel confident. I'm running it this year. I have driven the route in my Z06 and it's a handful on this kind of run coming from sunny to shady road areas, wet and dry, curves coming up faster than anticipated and not much room for error. I'm more confident in the Z06 since Ive got over 6000 miles of track time with it and anticipate its quirky nature. The 7 handles better and should inspire more confidence. I don't question the car, I question the driver (me). This year, compared to last year, I'm running the bias ply race slicks on the 13" rims. Jeff @ Hoosier recommended using the bias ply vs. the radials since the car's weight is so minor. I haven't run with them yet, that will be at Talladega GPR in April so perhaps you guys know more about them than I do now. Keep in mind this is only the second year of having this wonderful car and I'm learning every time I go out. I don't think I'm any where near the car's limit, but I may be approaching mine, the weakest link.

My wife is only a rider, not a driver. She has her own 2007 Corvette convertible but doesn't like to go fast. She lets me race but doesn't attend any of the events because it makes her nervous to see me "trying to kill myself". I can't complain, she lets me buy whatever I want....cars, race gear, etc. However, I make sure she is well taken care of and when it comes to things like her birthday, anniversaries, or Valentine's Day (today), I don't forget and I make sure she is well treated. Happy wife, Happy life.:party:

On the EBay tire dealer, those are cheap prices if the casings are still in pretty good shape. I just bought a set of Hoosier bias racing slicks for the 13" wheels, cost was $978 with shipping. The new SM 205-50 R 15 were $168 + freight last year. Of course, there is a risk with these blowing up but it's a slim one

I threw up the idea of going up to NJ to my wife & didn't hear any objection. It doesn't look like you have anyone south of the Mason Dixon line in the group. Would you allow a southerner in your group ? Also, just checking, is this a "boys" only group outing or do wives/girl friends join in ?

Yeah, my wife gets on my case about it. So Tom is a slacker ????? Likely not, probably a very smart over achiever. Some people need 45 years to get something done, some only need a couple of years. The smart ones only need the lesser amount. Evidently, I'm not in that group. So on the annual 7 get together at NJMP, is this a formal thing or is just you guys started going there and it evolved ? I see you get aobut 15 cars. Is that enough to rent the track or do you attend with others and share the facility ? Lastly, when will you have the date nailed down. I have the SCCA hill climb at the Tail of the Dragon on June 21-23.

I would love to go to NJMP & run with you guys.......but that's a 1200 mile ride one way. Although I did tell everyone that on June 1st I would kick back into near full retirement. My son is running our business but his kids are starting to be active in sports so he needs me to be there when he can't be, and, I feel guilty if I'm not working. Been working since I was 11, never been without a job ever since. Maybe something to consider, always wanted to run that track & VIR.

That CF hard top is incredible. I see the note below it saying that it increased the top speed by a good bit. I can likely make one, including the fiberglass mold, cheaper than importing something that big. Thanks for the post.

Thanks, that is an excellent picture of the bung welded in there by the factory. The only problem with getting something from George is the freight from Mid-Atlantic to Florida would be too high. Likely I would have to drop the car off and leave it, then pick it up later. Now, I'm getting ready to start back up on the SEDIV TT events for the year. I'm making a new roll bar because of my torso length puts my helmet above the roll bar. Factory roll bar main hoop was 1.75" with 0.065" wall thickness. I'm using the same diameter but stepped up to 0.095 wall and made it 3" taller and duplicating everything else. Your car is very similar to mine. I can see the carbon fiber dash like mine. Too bad you don't live in Florida.

When you say it unbolts, you mean the entire assembly including the previous roll bar ? Also, the two front bolts that appear to be run through the frame, are the holes provided with a backing plate by Caterham or did you just drill through the frame and run a bolt into it ? The more I look at your cage, but more I think I need the same thing. I would enjoy a little more roll over safety than the simple roll bar. With regards to the standard Caterham roll bar, I'm having to make another one since my long torso makes my head stick above the roll bar when wearing my helmet. I'm using 1.75" .095 wall tubing for the main roll bar, 1.25" .095 wall tubing for the cross and back bracing. It looks like you used the 1.75" for the front structure as well. Is that right ?

Current GCR of the SCCA call for two side bars with a minimum of one vertical support/reinforcement. On the 7, it's tough to do. I've seen some of the cages made that may comply but I don't think I could get in or out of the car very easily. At my ripe old age of demanding comfort and avoiding complications, I'm not going down that road. However, I think JBH's cage is superbly designed to be safe yet useable and it may motivate me to copy. Imitation is the best form of flatery. I would even go so far that this design is the best I have yet seen, and the fact that it's removeable is even better.

If anyone is interested in running in Time Trials events, the SEDIV of the SCCA is starting up in April with their first event at the Talladega Grand Prix track on the 13th & 14th. Following that the events are as follows; May 18th & 19th, Road Atlanta June 22nd & 23rd, Tail of the Dragon hill climb August 3rd & 4th, Tail of the Dragon hill climb August 31st, Sept 1st, Barber Motorsports Park October 12th & 13th, Talladega Grand Prix Roll bars are mandatory but full roll cages are not. SCCA rules apply for both GCR and Solo 1 car classes. These are very well run events and they are cost effective with fees of around $275 for two days. Of course you are required to meet safety regs which means SA2005 or newer helmet, race suit, gloves, shoes, etc. These events are a lot of fun and seem ideal for the 7's. I'm having a ball doing this for the second year. Great tracks, great people, very safe and very rewarding. Those without a race license can get qualified with an instructor doing the PDX events at the same event/time and then obtain their Timed Trials license which is much less rigorous than the full regional race license. If any are interested in following up on this, please feel free to contact me for more details (I don't run the events, I merely participate) or you can look up on the web site; http://www.sedivtt.com/ Again, if I can help anybody with this, please don't hesitate to contact me. Mike

Great looking roll cage. I was told by the tech director of SCCA in Topeka, KS that all club racing roll cages must have the side bars, often referred to as the Nascar bars. But if you're not participating in SCCA club racing, who cars ?

Has anyone experienced a belt failure on the Zetec?

I've got a question about all this fuss on the squeal. Ok, the thing squeals for about 0.8 seconds upon start up sometimes.................and some of you are ready to commit Harikari. You end up modifying the belt path to eliminate this, and may end up causing other issues, who knows. I've run 7 track events last year and two PDX. I set two track records for the SSP class in SCCA, and yes, my belt squeals at times on start up. It hasn't slowed me down, it hasn't caused a single belt failure, and I shift right at 7200 rpm, and when I downshift, and aren't really paying attention, the revs will hit 8000 rpm +..............so where is the problem ? I'm curious. Here in Florida, everything squeals, the illegals picking tomatoes, the governor about the critics, the old people about SS, Hell, we're the squeal capital of the world. Life goes on, and I ain't changing my belt path. When it squeals, I know the engine has fired up.:cheers:

I realize you guys run up north and the temps are different than what we have in the south. I talked to Jeff @ Hoosier yesterday on tire recommendations. He strongly advised staying with a bias ply racing slick for the 7's, explaining that the lightweight negates any advantage the DOT radials have, like the A6 and R6 tires they have. I ran 6 races last year on the R6 205-50R 15 (SM6 tires) and did well. I just ordered some 13" bias ply race slicks in the R35 compound to mount on my stock 13" wheels. Can't wait to see how they perform. The advantage of the 13" wheels is like changing the rear axle ratio, giving me more rpm's at the top to allow me to use 5th gear. I run TT events in the SEDIV SCCA and will be also running two hill climb events at the Tail of the Dragon. There, I plan on switching back to the Miata wheels fitted with the A6 autocross compound. Hill climbs don't give you enough time to warm up tires to where they need to be to stick, hence the A6 choice.

I think the Stalker made in St. Petersburg, Florida is a much better value. I have to admit the German RCB looks very good but the idea of a wide body super 7 with a LS7 cranking out 505 hp stock for about half the money is a lot more appealing (assuming the $100K price tag for the S2000 powered car is correct). If imitattion is a form of flattery, then the 7 has to be the most flattered car in the world.

Which ones are you needing, front or rear ? The link to the ebay sale is for rear wings. For front wings, I had some custom made in aluminum in California by a company called Fenders-N-More. I needed some fuller wings for the track that would keep the gravel, rocks, car parts, etc from getting thrown at me. One track day with my left forearm bleeding taught me the weakness of the 7's front wings. The aluminum wings cost me around $160 for the two front ones plus about $28 for freight to Florida. I told them how wide, what radius, what length on the radius and I wanted a double roll style, and they did it beautifully. If you're bent on lightweight carbon fiber, you can get one aluminum wing made then make a fiberglass mold off of it to build your own carbon fiber wings. The aluminum ones I have are pretty light but nowhere near as light at the stock CF. I put the stock CF wings back on when not on the track. Here is a link for the aluminum (or SS, or steel) fenders; http://www.fendersnmore.com/index.htm

That picture is pretty good in showing the massive difference in size and weight. I have the smaller Odyssey, I think its the 680 and is only about 4 " deep and the same in other dimensions as the one you have. How long is the EVO2 supposed to last ? And, is it advisable to keep a trickle charger on it like we do on conventional batteries ? At first I thought all this fuss about weight was nonsense...........now, I'm intrigued enough to consider it a sensible evolution. You guys are a bad influence.

Report on battery fire initially described it as Lithium Phosphate battery but I see the Boston Globe now identifies it as an overheated Li-Ion battery at Logan. For that matter, years ago I had a lead acid battery blow the hood off my 86 Silverado. Delco's can blow too. I stand corrected.