hoefi

Unless the owner is doing the tuning himself, review the data log, and actually report the findings on public forums, observation like this is not easily available. If the tuner turns on the closed-loop and have enough enrichment, the driver might not notice any difficulties in idle or driving. I tuned my own engine when I switched to the Jenveys and I installed an A/F ratio on the dash for observation and data log. I typically run open loop on my other race cars because of leaded racing fuel. So for this street motor, I tried opened loop in an attempt to get the fuel map dialled in as close to optimal as possible. When I ran it on the streets in traffic, I noticed the large swing in AF ratio from heat soak. It would take a bit of running time with more throttle with less, or no traffic, to drop the temperature of the TB enough to get the idle AF ratio back to normal. Running closed lop with high enough enrichment would overcome the problem. But since it typically always goes lean right after dropped throttle, closed loop would dump a bunch of fuel in when it's not really needed. If the injectors are inside the head, the AF ratio swing is a lot less drastic and that's why stock set up from the factory usually place them close to the head. I reckon if I could move my injectors to the stock location, I could get away with no more than 5-10% enrichment with a good base fuel map. Probably slightly better fuel milage and better emission as a result. Part of the over-rich problem during dropped throttle could be tuned out if the fuel injection controller has a deceleration fuel cut feature, but it will depend on how sophisticated the software is, and the willingness of the tuner in spending the time in perfecting it.

I am running a set of Jenveys with the injectors in the TBs. Biggest problem is large change in air fuel ratio as the TBs get heat soaked. It would idle at 14:1 and lean out to 18:1 when it's heat soaked. Had to run closed loop to stabilize idle and low throttle opening driving. If I had injector bosses in the manifold close to the head, I would prefer to run my injectors there, unless it's a dedicated race motor.

The only way to get this engine to make power is to spin it up higher. With a stock bottom end and keeping revs to 7,000 to 7,200, it will be difficult to see more than 170 at the wheel, especially with "easy to find" pump gas. One more thing - don't forget to get some bigger fuel injectors. The stock ones will not support the level of power from your Massive head and cam.

I have a Ford racing head on my Zetec. Bought it new 10 months ago as a winter project. I am happy with it for my application. The racing head is basically a production head modified by Ford with CNC porting and larger valve seats and valves installed. The head has been out of production for some time now and I bought one of the few left over new ones. I don't know if there are still any available. At one time, you can walk into to a Ford dealer and order one. Now you have to search hard to find them. The stock Ford racing head will not clear cams with high lifts. Additional machining will be required. I am using a Comp Cam stage 3, which has big overlap, but same lift as OEM cam. If you plan to run a really high horsepower motor, then you could easily just work with your stock head and have it ported, put in bigger valves and machine the top side for the extra clearance for the cam lobe. I didn't have a choice because I had a silver top Zetec that had the variable exhaust cam, hence I needed a new head anyway. I wasn't looking for big power so I sourced a used Ford Racing intake manifold and use a Mustang TB with it. With that set up, I didn't need an aftermarket ECU. If you are already on a set of TWMs, you will certainly pick up more power with a Ford racing head or rework your current head with larger valves since the stock head does not flow that much air. If you are shooting for a slight improvement and your current cam is not high lift, then it will make sense to find a Ford Racing head as a bolt-on (you will need to retune your ECU). If you are going for big power, you will need to replace the valve springs that come with the Ford Racing head, so you will be wasting part of what you paid anyways. In that case, you may as well just sent your existing head out for modification.

Zetec motors has a documented problem with the stock oil pump gear blowing up at 7400+ rpm. Most Focus owners with high output engines know about it. There is a steel oil pump gear upgrade from most Focus hp shops. Without this upgrade, most focus owners will set the rev limiter to 7200.

The coolant temp sensor is screwed into the thermostate housing. It's located right beside the spark plug coil module at the end of the cylinder head. Caterham USA should carry the sensor or can confirm if it is a Ford unit. For Pectel tuning information and fuel pressure, call Quicksilver Engines.

ttt

I hear you. Tire costs, pad costs and fuel costs is nothing compare to dropping an exhaust valve in that $12,000 Chevy motor. Had a Miata many years ago also. Ran it at Laguna once for the fun of it. It was painful. Good luck with your quest for a higher top speed.

Be careful with snowmobile trailers. They usually use axles that are narrower than normal. This way, on a snowy logging road, the trailer tires can run in tracks made by the tow vehicle's tires. This means the trailer floor is usually quite high so that the inner fenders don't stick out up the floor far from the interior walls. Tough to load a low car when the floor is too high.

Actually, it takes big power for any car. Engine power is proportion to the third power of speed when it comes to aero drag. This means at the higher speed range, it will take almost 8 times the power to go twice as fast. Once you dyno your current engine, you can estimate how much you will need to go faster.

I see in your signature that you own (owned) a Z06. I also own a Z06 as well as a Caterham. I track both of them. The truth is that, on a track, the 7 will not be able to stay with the current generation of supercars. It just doesn't have the top speed. And the "big" cars are no slower in the corners either. I have always said that if there is price money for the fastest lap, I will be crazy not to bring the Z. The two cars have different personalities. Accept that and just enjoy the way it drives, regardless of what the top speed is.

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Over at the Focus Forum, they consider you the guru on factory ECU remote tune. I will certainly be interested in your service should I decide to go ahead with the engine work this winter. All my experience was with Haltec units rather than factory ECUs. I believe the ECUs on the U.S. Caterham Zetecs were recalibrated. I heard Quicksilver Engines were the original company that did the engine program for Caterham USA. They might have gone with a much richer air fuel ratio than necessary. If I go ahead, I will most likely just go with the Ford Racing head as per your recommendation. Thanks again for the information you provided over the last few days.

Tom, thanks for the info again. Yes, I was talking about crank hp rather than wheel hp. I own my own engine dyno and I only talk crank hp. This is the first time I have ever owned a Ford engine, so I am trying to get up to speed to learn about them. With the Ford ECU (1998 model), is it a smart unit? Does it "learn" as it goes? I assume it runs open loop at wide open throttle and closed loop other times. Do you know what target air/fuel ratio the factory uses? I ran the car at a hillclimb and a track day recently and the tail pipe does not clean up at all. I suspect it comes from the factory pretty rich.

Thanks for the quick reply. More questions: 1) Do you recommend deleting the VCT with the stage 3 cam? 2) Will the stock fuel pump and injectors support 200 hp? TIA