Crossflow starters

[KOnahic]

I found the teeth missing from the ring gear on my crossflow powered 7 last Spring. Since it had over 30% leak down past the rings I decided to rebuild the engine while I had it out. The pinion/bendix on the starter was trashed too, so I had it rebuilt.

The motor is back in the car & as I was making sure(turning the engine by hand) it was on #1 TDC, I could hear the starter was being turned by the ring gear. I looked and the pinion/bendix was already engaged. After taking numerous measurements, I have come to the conclusion that I need a .625 (5/8) spacer between the starter and the bell housing.

Has anyone else experienced anything like this? Without a spacer, is this what trashed the starter & ring gear in the first place? The starter, prior to being rebuilt was a Dave Bean starter.

Many thanks, Kurt

[Dave W]

Kurt

Contact Russ "trailsmangasgas" over on the LocostUSA forum.

I believe that He had the same problem with a crossflow a couple years ago.

Dave W

Edited March 23, 2017 by Dave W

[locost7018]

This is Russ. My problem turned out to be the wrong flywheel on my new motor. There are two types of starters for these xflows. One that the starter gear pushes out on activation (USA Ford Pinto type). This has a short "nose". And one that pulls in (some older British Escort). The last one has a longer "nose" on the starter. Each one required a different flywheel. As far as I can tell the long nose starter was never on any US imported cars. Once I put a Pinto 1600 flywheel and starter on mine THAT problem was solved.

[KOnahic]

Dave & Russ,

What you're talking about here makes sense. The different offsets(for the lack of a better term) on the flywheels and the 2 different types of starter motors. This is just part of the joy of owning an older 7 & what makes having this forum so important.

Spring has sprung, drive & enjoy your cars, Kurt