JeffersonRaley Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 @Brightonuk - that is basically what I did. The ignition output trips a relay that activates a secondary fuse box. Solid state circuit breakers, like the link you posted, would be even better. It would be great if Motogadget built a car version with just a few more circuits and maybe intelligent windshield wiper control. It would be great for all sorts of hot rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Jeff If you don't have your phone is there a bypass to start the car or do you have to have the phone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 I asked Motogadget about this. They suggest you always have a physical switch (as a backup, in case your phone dies). That could be a simply key-operated switch or just a hidden latching switch. Jeff If you don't have your phone is there a bypass to start the car or do you have to have the phone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 (edited) HI Jeff Another question Should I run the M-Unit via the aux fuse box or run the fuse box from one of the aux out from the M-Unit? As I will be connecting various as yet undecided circuits directly to the fuse block eg fan, fuel pump etc. my thinking is I should run the M-Unit from the fuse box via a 30amp fuse, that way I don't need to use relays for any circuits that are not run from the M-Unit, fan fuel pump etc as they will pull from the fuse block which in turn is connected directly to the battery (via the appropriate fuses). Any thoughts? As a side not I also contacted Motogadget regarding a phone override: Hello, you can switch ON the mo.unit any time with a latching switch leading +12V to the input LOCK. We recommend to have this kind of backup system always beside the keyless-go with the smartphone/app. Which I think is how you wired your unit Edited December 22, 2020 by Brightonuk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted December 24, 2020 Author Share Posted December 24, 2020 There is no need for a fuse before the m.unit. Per the manual it should be connected directly to the battery. I have a keyed switch that triggers the ignition on input of the m.unit. So there are 2 options to start the car. 1) If Bluetooth is on, and I have my phone, then the ignition can be turned on just by pressing the start button on the wheel. A second press runs the starter. 2) Is to turn the key to activate the ignition. Then press the start button to run the starter. I actually Bluetooth turned off on the m.unit right now. I have to carry a key to unlock the gas cap anyway. And the Bluetooth does drain the battery over time. It is kind of a gimic that is neat but has little real value to me. Lots of other features on the m.unit are way more important to me. I've put around 50 miles on the car so far and am really happy with the control setup. I would do all the same things again, but might buy the non-Bluetooth m.unit to save a few bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 (edited) Jeff What is the amp draw for the starter as in your schematic you don't use a relay so I assume the 2 x 15 amp from the outputs is enough? Did you opt for the one wire tail/brake light or did you wire the taillights via the light output? Edited January 2, 2021 by Brightonuk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 Yes, the 2x15 is plenty for my starter, no relay needed in my case. I did use the 1-wire brake/tail light setup. That seemed like the simplest solution that minimized the number of wires to run. It did make my CHMSL (3rd brake light) a little tricky since I don't want that to come on with the headlights. To fix that I ran the ground for the CHMSL into the brake pressure switch. So the brake pressure switch sends a ground signal to the M.Unit to tell it the brakes are being used. The M.Unit sends power to the brake/tail lights to turn them on. The CHMSL gets that + signal, and also ground from the brake pressure switch. A bit Rube Goldberg, but it works perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Never thought of the third brake light issue gonna have to read this a couple of times (now I gotta Google Rube Goldberg). The one wire is the way to go for a rewire, from multiple runs to a one wire option is awesome but as I have the original wiring already run to the fuse box it might just be easier to use the "light out" and "brake" separate. As for the additional fuse box to clarify I was going to use one of the aux out via a relay, that way I will not trip the M-Unit and won't have problems from any components running from the fuse block. As you have nailed this I appreciate any input and you answering questions and please jump in if you see any issues with my ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Ok lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 Never thought of the third brake light issue gonna have to read this a couple of times (now I gotta Google Rube Goldberg). The one wire is the way to go for a rewire, from multiple runs to a one wire option is awesome but as I have the original wiring already run to the fuse box it might just be easier to use the "light out" and "brake" separate. As for the additional fuse box to clarify I was going to use one of the aux out via a relay, that way I will not trip the M-Unit and won't have problems from any components running from the fuse block. As you have nailed this I appreciate any input and you answering questions and please jump in if you see any issues with my ideas. Got it - It sounds like you're doing something very similar to what I did. I run 1 of the M.Unit aux outputs to a relay. That relay powers a fuse block for everything the M.Unit doesn't have circuits for (e.g. windshield wipers gauges, etc). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 There is no need for a fuse before the m.unit. Per the manual it should be connected directly to the battery. The Motogadget manual calls for a 40A fuse between the battery and the M-Unit. they call it the "vehicle main fuse". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 I'm looking for a key-operated switch, to serve as a backup for the Bluetooth unlocking system (or it may end up being the primary key). It obviously doesn't need to be a beefy column-mounted affair, since only a tiny current will pass through it and I don't have the column-lock mechanism. Not sure where I will mount it yet. Any ideas, please? How about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Removable-Position-Terminal-30-1086-01/dp/B01MYXBTVZ/ref=psdc_5739466011_t3_B019I12414#customerReviews Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Jeff As I am using an Aux out to trip a relay to the aux fuse box how do I get the M-Unit to send a signal as soon as it is turned on (without programing a button to it). The feeds from the fuse box are to the brain for the remote wheel buttons as well as the fuel pump and ECU so I need power to the fuse box to start the engine Thanks Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) Jeff OK I guess I must use a kill switch as "Lock" needs 12v to turn on the unit, so I will wire as you did using a hidden 12v switch. I am slowly figuring this out but it is still a jigsaw puzzle, the Aux out is a little unclear how to get those circuits to energize once I flip the hidden "lock" switch without any other input. Another puzzle is how to use the "Kill Switch" it did not turn off anything when I grounded it?? I see you did not use this option. The wheel buttons all seem to work with the M-Unit just programing. How did you program the indicator flash option on the wheel to be constant/lock and control the flash via the M-Unit or timed flash through the wheel button and no input from the M-Unit? Here is the board now so once installed just loose the exiting fuse block and rewire to this one Any chance of some photo's of your install? Steve Edited January 20, 2021 by Brightonuk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Steve, what are those terminals that insert into the M-Unit called, please? Do they just crimp onto the wires? Seems a much better solution than just inserting bare stranded wires... For the AUX relays, I believe you can configure them to come on as soon as the M-Unit is unlocked - there is a setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 I started with these: https://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Ferrules-Terminals-Crimping-0-25-10mm%C2%B2/dp/B07TYCKN4F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=GTF2BW8FTJ7I&dchild=1&keywords=ferrel+crimper+kit&qid=1611153136&sprefix=ferrel%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFHT0xBT0JGRVA3QzQmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5NTc4MzgxSVlKMFVCTEU3TURaJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4ODcyOTQySkIyRjhQR0hKRUVPJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== If you want some of the above drop me a PM and I will send you a bag full as I have hundreds of the buggers I will never use. But ended up getting these (male) without the plastic butt which I think work better they insert in further and just added some shrink tubing https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000924555523.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4e634c4d4kYqHx. You can also get them from "TE Connectivity" state side or just google Ferrule pins/connectors You will need a crimping tool and make sure it will crimp down to 20 gauge for the china ones. I have an Eastwood crimper with interchangeable dies which works out great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 I know you asked Steve, but I'll answer too. I just stripped and soldered the wires. Twisting the bare wires isn't as good because the receivers don't hold the bare wire as well, and they can fray and short out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Jeff As I am using an Aux out to trip a relay to the aux fuse box how do I get the M-Unit to send a signal as soon as it is turned on (without programing a button to it). The feeds from the fuse box are to the brain for the remote wheel buttons as well as the fuel pump and ECU so I need power to the fuse box to start the engine Thanks Steve That is the "ignition" output of the M-Unit. It is powered any time the ignition is on. So I just have that trip a relay that powers the fuse box for everything not directly controlled by the M-Unit (e.g. wipers, steering wheel controls, reverse light, ECU) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 I know you asked Steve, but I'll answer too. I just stripped and soldered the wires. Twisting the bare wires isn't as good because the receivers don't hold the bare wire as well, and they can fray and short out. If you do go that route here is a good way to tin the wires I used it for any wires not terminated with Ferrules https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017LG2FUS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 For the AUX relays, I believe you can configure them to come on as soon as the M-Unit is unlocked - there is a setting. Yep finally got the M-ride to find the M-Unit I set the aux 2 to engage as soon as the ignition energizes so that is solved as I now have an Aux fuse box very impressed at the customization option in the M-Unit. The setup seem to be working with the inputs/outputs triggering with the wheel buttons. Jeff: Under "Handlebar Controls" on the M-Ride did you set these up or are they just used for the M-Button? Now the frightening task of rewiring the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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