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New 7 owner in S'consin


rdhunt1

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  • 2 years later...

After a few crappy years I am back at the 7 and loving every second.  It started with what I thought was a valve tick that was too loud.  Clearances fine cold.  Fine hot. Knowing full well I wouldn't be satisfied till I knew what it was,  the head came off.   #3 valve guide had way to much clearance.  Roughly .073" at the head of the valve as shown in the pic. Everything else... about .003". 

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So here we are a week later!!

 

Really glad I pulled and disassembled the trans.  The amount of play in the input bearing was excessive!  The races look fine but side to side play is bordering on extreme.  The output shaft bearing is garbage!  The inner race is badly galled all the way around.  Likely been this way since I got it.  Can't wait to hear the difference in sound!

 

New u joints since I am in this far, as well as all seals and gaskets.  

 

'Old Ford blue' for the engine. 

'Cast iron' for the trans housing. 

Huge improvement!!

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Also believe I have fixed the speedo by remagnetizing the rotor. 

 

It has always read low.  About half.  Rolled the bezel off, disassembled, and spun in the lathe at a known rpm.  Definitely not correct.  Appearantly the rotors are magnetized to saturation so I tried to get them remagnetized with some good quality magnets. It's seems to have worked perfectly!!  I think I am within 1 mph of what it 'should' be and that could be needle placement...i tried to get it back to the identical spot.  I am waiting to test in the car against gps before reinstalling the bezel.

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23 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

AX block, lucky you!

Love project threads.

Exactly!  

 

At 16k miles the bores are excellent. Crosshatch still very visible as I would expect. Pulled a piston to check wear and any ringland issues but they still look new. Thought about aftermarket pistons just because but didn't.  

 

Lots of parts from burtons. They have gotten them to my door here in Wisconsin in about 5 days each order. Extremely fast service. 

 

Stripped the oil pan last night as it will be going ford blue as well.  New main seals installed, and i like seeing that they both have been upgraded to dual lip seals.  Cometic front and rear gaskets appear to be very nice rubber over aluminum.

 

I did make a new bellhousing to tailshaft gasket.  The burton part is just like oem and is like a thin brown paper bag. While I know this is common ( my 67 Enfield has some) I am going for reliably leak free.  The oem gasket is .006" and my thinnest good quality material is .018". I can't find any instance where the additional .012" will be an issue.  The tolerances of the whole trans just aren't that tight!

 

ARP bolts on the rods...just cuz i can, and when I did the diff years back I found the carrier bolts were stretching and wouldn't torque properly.  ARP studs also replacing the head bolts. 

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Ohhh, Xflow porn! 

but wait  

 

 

ARP bolts......

heres the thing, those bolt heads are too tall to clear some dry sump pans.  The good pans have a curved plate that is spaced close to the crank and rod ends so there will be some oil splash to keep everything lubed.  That clearance is too shallow for ARP.  So you aren't building a dry sump, not now.  But eventually you might so when that time comes, the bolts won't be an issue.   So  ARP bolts are better, right?  Not always.  Not saying they're bad, but in this 35-40 ftlb application,  that is hardly a high tension spec like head bolts or flywheel.  I would stick with standard Ford part on that.

 

I am wondering if there is a difference in crank seals between the 711M and the AX???

Edited by IamScotticus
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Definitely not a dry sump.  Only reason for the ARP even in this low torque application is the strength of the original bolts. My differential carrier bearing bolts did stretch and would not pull to the correct torque.   If those oe bolts could do that,  so could my rod bolts.  Entirely possible that new OE diff bolts would have been fine ( just like the rod bolts)  but, well...I just wanted ARP's.

 

Reassembly is going well.  Trans and engine will reunite tomorrow.  Still waiting on the head from the machine shop. 

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Head is supposed to be returned tomorrow!  Engine and trans look, and are, worlds better for having come out of the car.  Excited to get it back running.  

 

I do still have the lucas/aldon distributor with the pertronix points replacement that is running mechanical advance. Sounds like 34° max advance is pretty common.  Recommendations?

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 3/4/2023 at 10:24 AM, rdhunt1 said:

Also believe I have fixed the speedo by remagnetizing the rotor. 

 

Appearantly the rotors are magnetized to saturation so I tried to get them remagnetized with some good quality magnets. 

 

Maybe someone can explain the technical details of this to me.  I have never understood how a lump of metal in rotors loses magneticity (assuming thats a word) over time?   Is it heat cycles that does it?   Anyone got an explanation for this simpleton?

 

 

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OK, It was my job but I have slept many years since then,  So hear in a nut shell- yes heat cycles, vibration or shock, exposure to magnetic fields, and third and most important the makeup of the steel. As most know a wrench or screw driver make good magnets whereas a low grade soft (made somewhere in Asia) does not.  So like any other automotive application cost is of primary concern, so you will get a lesser Quality. And everything (almost) has a half life. And for the automotive world 10 years is a long one. Leave your car parked out in the high desert sun for 2 years and it will be clear.  Sorry but I have been able to get old and have become sarcastic. 

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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Been driving... A lot!  Love my 7!  All around wisconsin, towed down to Tennessee,  Illinois... as long as I don't have to spend hours screaming along the interstate I'm in.  I have been keeping my eyes open for a random type 9 to fall in my lap but it just hasn't happened yet.    

 

I did absolutely find the cause of oil that was getting flung around the tunnel and drooling into my floorboards.  The cap installed on the trans yoke was loose enough that oil behind it would would fling out.  Suprising, but true.  High temp metal epoxy has 100% fixed that issue. 

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Not much else has gone on with the 7. Still trying to have the aluminum professionally polished. 

 

in the meantime I brought a 1951 pontiac chieftain back to life for a long time friend.  In storage for 27 years and she now enjoys him (ponchovilla) as a substitute daily down in st Louis!

 

i am currently waking up a 74 alfa gtv2000 for another good friend.   Yanked from about 19 years in storage.  It is up and running on its original Spica injection and has just become a really good driver as cold and snow are coming to wisconsin.  

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Oh, and camping with a 7!   Spent the weekend at Blackhawk Farms Raceway during their annual AHRMA event.   Used to race with AHRMA and just wanted to go and hang out.  7's camp just fine!  Brought a cover for the 7 to keep it warm and dry during the overnight. 

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