Anaximander Posted June 27, 2022 Author Share Posted June 27, 2022 (edited) Vipergeek, Where is your intercooler located? Could it be that it is right in front of your radiator shedding hot air onto your radiator while cooling your turbos? Edited June 27, 2022 by Anaximander Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 There are pics and vids of Vipergeek's car on bringatrailer. The intercooler is right in front of the engine, behind the radiator. I use the highest amp fan I can find for the radiator core size. Amp draw is a great indicator when cfm is subjective. I like the hayden ultracool two speed fans that draw about 23 amps on high. Oem primary cooling fans for high output or displacement fwd applications typically pull 30-40 amps. The m142k pulls about 17 amps. On Vipergeek's car, I would remove the aluminum shroud between the fan and radiator in order to direct mount. The shroud is an attempt to improve fan efficiency but it is restricting flow through the core in the corners. Oems typically use rubber flap "check valves" with such a shroud so when the fan is creating a lower pressure inside the shroud, the flaps are closed. When air pressure is higher inside the shroud (such as driving over 60 mph), the flaps open. I'd also move things around on the shelf and wall to make some space to fit the largest volume expansion tank possible to add to the pressurized system volume, completely fill it (versus half way if no oveflow tank), and move the overflow tank as needed. It looks like it could hang off the left upper rail in front of the brake master with a base plate. The ecu and connectors take up a lot of space on the shelf. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vipergeek Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 12 hours ago, MV8 said: There are pics and vids of Vipergeek's car on bringatrailer. The intercooler is right in front of the engine, behind the radiator. I use the highest amp fan I can find for the radiator core size. Amp draw is a great indicator when cfm is subjective. I like the hayden ultracool two speed fans that draw about 23 amps on high. Oem primary cooling fans for high output or displacement fwd applications typically pull 30-40 amps. The m142k pulls about 17 amps. On Vipergeek's car, I would remove the aluminum shroud between the fan and radiator in order to direct mount. The shroud is an attempt to improve fan efficiency but it is restricting flow through the core in the corners. Oems typically use rubber flap "check valves" with such a shroud so when the fan is creating a lower pressure inside the shroud, the flaps are closed. When air pressure is higher inside the shroud (such as driving over 60 mph), the flaps open. I'd also move things around on the shelf and wall to make some space to fit the largest volume expansion tank possible to add to the pressurized system volume, completely fill it (versus half way if no oveflow tank), and move the overflow tank as needed. It looks like it could hang off the left upper rail in front of the brake master with a base plate. The ecu and connectors take up a lot of space on the shelf. MV8, Uh oh! This is stuff I haven't even thought about as I am still learning the ins and outs of the car. Thank you for these thoughtful and interesting suggestions. I'll take a closer look at the fan shroud. What do you think of the side baffles creating a pressure cowl nose bowl approach to greatly reduce bypass air around the radiator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anaximander Posted June 28, 2022 Author Share Posted June 28, 2022 Vipergeek, You communicated to me that you recently hardwired the fan because the relay did not seem to be activating it. FYI, because of the peak amp draws, it is recommended that you use at least a 12 gauge wire to not experience any overheating. A 10 gauge would be a bit of overkill but you would also be flowing a ton of electrons through that large a gauge of wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, vipergeek said: MV8, Uh oh! This is stuff I haven't even thought about as I am still learning the ins and outs of the car. Thank you for these thoughtful and interesting suggestions. I'll take a closer look at the fan shroud. What do you think of the side baffles creating a pressure cowl nose bowl approach to greatly reduce bypass air around the radiator? Baffles would be a big improvement. It looks like a lot of the airflow through the grill goes around and over the top of the radiator. Also, the fins are not parallel to the airflow and the core thickness makes it more restrictive to airflow. There are specially made cores for sloped mounting to keep airflow parallel to the fins and tubes. The one piece tilt front end and aftermarket radiator with no flanges on the sides makes it more difficult to seal. I'd probably make a tunnel out of .050 3003-h14 and pop rivets that attaches to the chassis and use silicone baffle material from aircraft spruce to rivet to the tunnel and lay over the edge of the radiator, so air pressure pushes the material against the radiator to seal. I'd be tempted to swap in an aftermarket scion radiator like this one with a larger core and vertical but it would take some fab to adapt with consideration for the pipe locations and angles. The pics on bringatrailer are not good for determining the best way to duct air to the rad. Mainly, without swapping parts, I'd pull the shroud, try to move the radiator to be more vertical and parallel to the airflow, and either duct between the rad and grill or fit a wall on the chassis behind the rad with a bulb weatherstrip against the tilt bonnet. Use card board to make patterns for the sides and top. I can draw some ideas for baffles on good pics of the area. Edited June 28, 2022 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vipergeek Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 4 minutes ago, MV8 said: Baffles would be a big improvement. It looks like a lot of the airflow through the grill goes around and over the top of the radiator. Also, the fins are not parallel to the airflow and the core thickness makes it more restrictive to airflow. There are specially made cores for sloped mounting to keep airflow parallel to the fins and tubes. The one piece tilt front end and aftermarket radiator with no flanges on the sides makes it more difficult to seal. I'd probably make a tunnel out of .050 3003-h14 and pop rivets that attaches to the chassis and use silicone baffle material from aircraft spruce to rivet to the tunnel and lay over the edge of the radiator, so air pressure pushes the material against the radiator to seal. I'd be tempted to swap in an aftermarket scion radiator like this one with a larger core and vertical but it would take some fab to adapt. The pics on bringatrailer are not good for determining the best way to duct air to the rad. Mainly, without swapping parts, I'd pull the shroud, try to move the radiator to be more vertical and parallel to the airflow, and either duct between the rad and grill or fit a wall on the chassis behind the rad with a bulb weatherstrip against the tilt bonnet. Use card board to make patterns for the sides and top. I can draw some ideas for baffles on good pics of the area. MV8, I have already received my baffle material from Aircraft Spruce which I ordered about 4 days ago (the red stuff). I also started mocking up some baffles with poster board that will attach to the radiator mounts with the red stuff angling forward to seal against the nose bowl as it closes and then air pressure will force it against the inside of the nose bowl when moving. The original builder of the car, who is also a builder of experimental aircraft, had to relieve the top of the nose to clear the top of the existing radiator. I didn't notice the bump on the nose until I started down this path. I'll start taking some pics. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastg Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 (edited) You should also pay attention to how the air exits the car after going through the radiator. I had a trim panel that want across the lower frame rails between the radiator and the engine. It had been sitting on the shelf I had never refitted it after the engine swap. So I think it was the winter of 2020 I decided to refit the panel, not thinking much about it. The following spring I started to experience overheating at VIR, my first track day of the year. When I got home I play around with thermostats, replaced the stock Honda plastic thermostat houses with a fancy billet unit. Nothing helped until one I said to myself I wonder if that trim panel is causing the issue, bingo no further issues. So getting the air into the radiator is a good idea, but it has to be able to exit. Graham Edited June 28, 2022 by fastg Spelling 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vipergeek Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 Anaximander and fastg, A-looks like I'll be doing some re-wiring based on your suggestion. Thanks! fastg-thank you for your suggestions and cautions. Airflow is a funny thing. I flew the F4 for 10 years and that beast never encountered a molecule it didn't abuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anaximander Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 (edited) Edited September 26, 2022 by Anaximander 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anaximander Posted July 18, 2022 Author Share Posted July 18, 2022 (edited) Edited September 26, 2022 by Anaximander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anaximander Posted August 2, 2022 Author Share Posted August 2, 2022 (edited) Edited September 26, 2022 by Anaximander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anaximander Posted August 10, 2022 Author Share Posted August 10, 2022 (edited) Getting closer to completion. Edited September 26, 2022 by Anaximander Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted August 10, 2022 Share Posted August 10, 2022 On 3/23/2022 at 2:03 PM, Anaximander said: Croc, We are now a two Stalker family. One for me and one for my wife. Guess I will have to teach her how to shift a manual again??? I think this is the best looking stalker I've ever seen. Beautiful! Does she drive it much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anaximander Posted August 10, 2022 Author Share Posted August 10, 2022 My wife won't even ride in a Stalker except x1 for each one I have owned and that is only around the block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted August 11, 2022 Share Posted August 11, 2022 She is probably smarter than all of us combined. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anaximander Posted August 18, 2022 Author Share Posted August 18, 2022 (edited) I can't wait to see how the car performs with the specific modifications made for autocrossing. Edited September 26, 2022 by Anaximander 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anaximander Posted August 21, 2022 Author Share Posted August 21, 2022 Well, I guess building cars is not for sissies. Was perking along just fine on the dyno today and then took the car for its first couple of miles around the shop that has a circular road. The car ran like the wind. Only problem was that when I got back from the run, the passenger rear axle was leaking some diff fluid from being partially pulled out. Either the circlips that hold the axle into the diff are bad or the axles themselves may be mis-sized? It is back to Scott Minehart shortly to figure out what I hope is the final conundrum. No autox tomorrow <sob>. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted August 21, 2022 Share Posted August 21, 2022 I expect the inner cup was not fully seated in the diff side gear when installed. I doubt the axle came out completely and just needs to be pushed in completely to seat the snap ring into the groove. Grab where the boots fits over the inner cup to push and wiggle it in, then compare the gap to the diff on the other side. No seal damage is likely if the inner cup didn't come out of the diff completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anaximander Posted August 22, 2022 Author Share Posted August 22, 2022 The snap rings may be the culprit. It will be inexpensive to get a pair of OEM Ford c-clips and attempt a reinstall. They initially appeared to lock in but no such luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 I hope they used irs 8.8 side gears versus the standard straight axle gears, which have no groove to retain the stub snap ring. Easy to check if the axle is out for new rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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