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  1. The diabolical devices are called Dzus fasteners, You can buy drivers designed for these type of fasteners. You can get cheaper ones on sites like Summit Racing. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=HARDDZUS Graham
  2. Dan, have you still got the original oil pump, if so put in a new seal and install it. I think these upgraded oil pumps are solving a problem that does not exist. I have used and abused a few Miata's over the years, never changed the oil pump. Maybe if you had a high pressure turbo setup it might help, but otherwise I think it's just money in the vendors pocket. Just an idea Graham
  3. Reverse bleeding sounds like a good thing, the air is naturally wanting to rise in the fluid, we are pushing it down. I have seen a coupe of race car setups which had like a dry brake on the caliper, they had a pressure supplied setup where they could replace all the brake fluid in seconds. I think it's more common in endurance racing. Graham
  4. I have both the pressure and the vacuum setups, both work well. I had have on of the old Myvac hand pumped and a compressor type. You can put a little grease on the nipple to get it more air tight seal on the vacuum type. With the vacuum type a little air leaking around the nipple does not change there effectiveness, as long as you keep the vacuum applied. I take the pressure type to the track because it simpler, I have a modified Tilton cap with a quick detach connector that you would use on a compressor, works great. https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html?_br_psugg_q=brake+bleeding+tools https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0100 Graham
  5. Well done, test drive next? Graham
  6. I think that is the default, i.e. nothing plugged in. I am guessing Fuel Load is fuel pressure, did you an an extra fuel pressure sensor? I have no idea what Ignition Load is in kpa? MAP sensor is disconcerting, but it should still run even with it unplugged, just not run well. Graham
  7. OK, you did some good tests and you know a lot more than you did yesterday. You have sparks and the timing is in the zip code. That is a good injector test. If you don't use the zip ties they fly across the garage:) Did you change the injectors or are they the original injectors? If you have swapped injectors there are high and low impedance injectors that can screw you up. Did you check the ground status? I remember there is a stud on the back of the head on the right side that is the master ground, is there anything attached to that stud? https://mx5unleashed.com/tech/megasquirt-pnp.html Graham
  8. How are you checking the sparks? Do the plugs look wet? Looks like you using IAC, are you giving it any throttle during starting process. I would get some starter fluid, remove the inlet setup back to the throttle body. A little starter fluid and a little throttle, if the timing is even close it should go vooom. Graham
  9. "10 degrees retarded" from what, 10 degrees ATDC (After Top Dead Center) will not work, you always need some advance to run, 10 degrees advance is a good status fixed timing starting point. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/base-timing/ But I thought we were thinking it was an injector problem, what changed? Graham
  10. Well you need to start with the harness, which one did you use, or was it an adapter? But start there follow the ground wires back from the injector all the way to the ECU. Megasquirt's on a Miata are very ground sensitive, did you use the correct ECU to engine ground? There might be something in the install notes, about grounds, if there is follow them to the letter. There is an amazing amount of support for the MS on https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/ almost 650 threads, they have been involved with the MS since the early days. There used to be a user Brainiac or something like that, he built 100's. Including mine. Graham
  11. My order is always 1. Fuel pressure (does the fuel pump run). 2. Sparks 3. Injection. Keep up the good work, you will figure it out. Graham
  12. A Garrett 6262 would suite my K24 Honda engine, it would be to large for your Duratec. I would not buy a Garrett for your situation, hell I would not buy one for my car, very expensive. There are a lot of good Chinachargers available, you can probably get a ball bearing turbo for $600 a Garrett would be closer to $1900. Graham
  13. Connet to the squirt and check the values, IAT, coolant temp, throttle position should move with the pedal. If all looks good, disconnect the fuel pump so you can crank the engine over and get oil pressure. Reconnect the fuel pump and make some noise. Just run it for a few seconds and check for leaks. Second start, get it up to temp so the thermostat opens. Graham
  14. Looking good. Make sure you remove any finger prints from the exhaust before first startup or the will burn in. Just use a solvent and rag to remove any residue. Graham
  15. My projects have a life cycle, a long term plan. Adding a turbo will probably be the final iteration. MV8 is right a low pressure turbo system would be simple and cost effective. Medium size turbo, you don't want one that spools up to quickly, nor do you want a large turbo that will cause to much lag, Garrett 6262 with a .83 exhaust housing is the favorite at the moment. Good waist gate priority to allow low pressure spring to be affective. I was thinking of a 4 pound base spring increasing to 8 pounds to higher rpm. 8 pounds would give me about 400rwbhp, so maybe a 6 pound max boost. I don't think an intercooler will be requires if you have good starting IAT. Or I could phone 4 Piston and order the 1000bhp all day setup:) Graham
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