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  1. Dyno shops don't really care about the car, it the engine and ECU. The only issue with the car is how to strap it down, but one look under the back will answer that question. For a basic dyno run they just need the engine so they know were to pick up the RPM signal. When I talk to a dyno shop I will say I have a Locost with a K24. Graham
  2. I would not start chasing dyno number, it's pointless. A Dynopack Dyno is a good setup, I think it's a hub dyno so it removes the tire drum interface. If the shop is convenient and the staff responsive keep using them. The numbers are for your reference so you can compare changes. Or you can go chase numbers, slip the dyno operator $50, he will pump the tires up good and hard, play with the temp and pressure setting, you will get some good numbers. But guess what the actual HP the engine produces will not change. Graham
  3. "301 RWHP at 14psi boost" is an astronomical number. In a perfect world 14.7 pounds boost will double HP, but the turbo exhaust system is very inefficient so you don't get double the power. So a stock 1.8 Miata on 12 pounds boost would be around 200 rwbhp. Graham
  4. I had a turbo NA Miata before the 7, controlled by a Megaquirt, it was a ton of fun. I like flyinmiata.com parts, super quality. You just need a simple log manifold and a Garret GT2560R eBay clone turbo and your in business. miataturbo.net is always a good resource, lots of Megasquirt information. Don't get sucked into the HP gains, the more HP you make the more difficult it will be to drive on/off boost. So stay at modest power gains and you will have a lot of fun. Graham
  5. I think your going to need a lot more information above "English Axle". But I have used https://chicagodriveline.com/ in the past with success. But I gave them the front and rear drive flanges, they used that information to source new components to build a driveshaft. Graham
  6. The cams, springs, can chain and followers were installed. It only took about 3 1/2 hours. We used a 'wack it with a hanger' valve keeper tool, it worked perfectly much to our amazement. Forgot to buy a O ring for the front timing cover, so once that arrived the engine should be ready to reinstall. Graham
  7. I was doing a little setup work for the cam swap, engine out, new 6 speed transmission in. I was inspecting the engine and the inlet valves/ports are amazingly clean, looks like they were just installed. Graham
  8. Checkout this listing you will find just about all the cars available. Croc diligently maintains this list, does a great job
  9. Dual lift inlet and exhaust, variable cam timing on inlet. Mapping is complex, you have a map for each lift level and cam timing. You have a low lift 0 degree timing and fuel map. low lift 10 degree timing and fuel, low lift 20 degree timing and fuel, and so on. Then the same for high lift. A LOT of maps, but they is one reason they run so well you can really tune the details. Graham
  10. Being a 2-stroke lover I have always been tempted by a Rotary, but the start have never aligned. The one on BaT looks very nice. Graham
  11. I am sitting at 209 rwbhp I am aiming for 220. The cams should allow it to make hp all the way up to the red line, so the improvements should be very useful. Because the dual lift cams I should pick up power everywhere, no loss of low end power. This is being mated to a new 6 speed box that should give me better ratios out of slower corners, so overall I am expecting big gains. Graham
  12. Parts, gotta love parts. Will install over Xmas and dyno test in the spring. Should really liven up the engine. This package cost twice the amount I paid for the engine:) The engine is a Honda K24A2 out of a 2007 Acura TSX. Graham
  13. I know, someone said they would give him 250 pounds for it:) Graham
  14. The original Locost is for sale. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1556670397899845/user/100041549080164/ Graham
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