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Kill Switch Pics.


NeoBear

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Hey Everyone,

 

So I am nearing that stage with my car where I need to start focusing on electrical. I just got yelled at work over the fact that I don't have a kill switch (I work at a truck dealership) .

 

I am sold on adding one but I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or recommendations on placement. We sale them here at my dealership but they are huge and kind of an eyesore. Looking for something functional and simple, if you can also maybe mention the brand and were you got it from thanks in advance.

274024483_344723714361602_3854038382124926983_n.jpg.ea1e5c5e3cacf5ab60e20bfbe3bceae4.jpg

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There are inertia safety switches that were used by ford in the 90s, normally found in the trunk, that shut off the electric fuel pump if the car is hit. It is a ball in a magnetic cup that can roll out, breaking the contact bridge through the ball. A button resets the cup into the ball. Used are well protected and work fine, especially if using to control a pump relay.

You can see a master cut off switch installed on GregM's DSK. The lever is hidden under the dash. His is installed on the ground side of the battery. There are different schools of thought on that. I'm not sure what the rules say exactly for what you want to do as to positive or negative, location, etc.

Not all master cuts are the same. Same have multiple contacts that make or break. Many different sources.

 

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What is your main concern in adding a kill switch? Security? Safety in an accident? Battery parasitic draw?

 

I'm considering a master battery disconnect switch to prevent battery drain between drives. I'm interested to see if anyone has any other ideas/alternatives to the standard Caterham switch location on the drivers side scuttle.

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Main reason I want a kill switch is to save my battery but everyone talks to me and says the same thing.

 

"WHAT ARE YOU GONNA DO IF YOU ROLL IT AND CANT SHUT OFTHE FULE PUMP HUUUHHHHHHHH!!!!!"

 

Look I am not saying that cant happen but Jesus haha. I also want some safety I guess. Another buddy even mentioned the starter could get stuck in the on position or something insane. But if I am being honest I just want to make sure the battery doesn't get drained if I don't drive the car for more then a week or so.

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My car has a master cut off that is under the scuttle out of sight. It is for battery protection and an added security feature. If the switch is out where everyone can see it, EVERYONE can see it. 

I have been going to the Petite LeMans forever and they have the grid walk before the race. Anyone and everyone are allowed around the racecars on the front straight. At least once someone has turned a master switch OFF. The crew was going nutz trying to get the car to start. They did get it going, but it is a lesson. Some people just cannot resist a big red switch.

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11 hours ago, NeoBear said:

 I just want to make sure the battery doesn't get drained if I don't drive the car for more then a week or so.

If it discharges in a month of sitting and temps are above 50f, then something is wrong with the battery condition, selection/capacity, or car wiring. Extra cca, while usually adding weight, extends the battery service life. Same slope to eventual failure but the batt with excess cca starts out further from the no longer adequate/failure point. The tiny sealed batts that claim high cca have their thumb on the scale as the testing temp is much higher.

 

My mom's recently acquired miata NB kept discharging the battery a few years ago. I found a gps system hidden in the car.

 

Also, many efi systems automatically shut off the fuel pump if the engine stops turning.

Edited by MV8
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