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Posted (edited)

I know it makes no sense to step down from side draughts to a downdraft, especially with an A2 cam and is driving well on 37mm chokes.

For my car, I'm not shooting for Hi-Po here, just a fun weekender show car that makes everyone pull out their cell phones for some reason.   All things 60's check my kitsch itch boxes so I've always loved the S3 hood scoop.  Something about it is just the right finishing touch on an already over the top road toy.

 

As I think more about the Downdraft carb, the more I think its not such a bad compromise.  There's plenty of support with the FF gang, as they're stuck with it.  Its simple,  fewer jets, less fiddling, no synchronizing, and automatic choking is available, if and when it works.  Is a Webber DGV worth the bonnet bulge nostalgia?

 

Looking for a bonnet scoop!

Got to find one first.  the rest is easy.

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Edited by IamScotticus
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I assume you'd prefer the yellow design to the green, but finding either will be tough. How are you with composites?

Maybe a loaner to have 3d mapped?

Posted (edited)

With a loaner I would take it to a glass man to cast a mold.  we have a few in the Houston/ Galveston area.  

If 3D print is the better option,  I'll try that too.

Then have several paintable made, sell them.  I doubt Cat would object.

 

Yes, yellow for my car.

Edited by IamScotticus
Posted

3d print or cnc mill foam cores but however you want to get there. However, if you cannot get your hands on one for any purpose, you have another option.

You could carefully measure the required dims for engine movement and shape a block of rigid foam to fit, then take it to the glass man to be used as a buck for your mold.

Another, more accurate option is to fit the new system, cover in painter plastic, then pack modeling clay around it to the tear drop shape you want. The clay and tools are available at hobby lobby or amazon. I suggest oil based. Then trailer the car to the glass man for a layup.

It appears the original was just a shell with the cut edge against the bonnet with no flange for mounting, just at the front for appearance. I expect studs were glassed into the shell for mounting.

If you cut the opening in the bonnet undersize, you can provide some rigidity to the edge by bending a vertical flange.

Posted

That's a lot of work when DCOEs and K&Ns are working.

 

No, I won't be doing any hack jobs.  I will only work with the genuine article or a reasonable equivalent.  One of the complications is that due to the curvature of the bonnet, the right side of the scoop is deeper than the left.   That's not something I will find in a generic accessory scoop.  Only perfection,  no substitutes.  

I still need to contact Arch about a bonnet and ask them about a scoop. 

Posted

I needed about 10 mm more clearance for the top of my 2x40DCOEs on my old Cortina GT 1500 motor in my 7. Had a beautiful teardrop made in aluminium. Shocked at the cost- it was more than I originally paid for the car when I found it in the UK a long time ago. Hand layup fiberglass-polyester must be the way to go for scoops

  • Like 1
Posted

Sorry if my info on scoops was confusing to anyone. I chose aluminium to match the look since my bonnet is unpainted 3003-H14. For anyone contemplating a composit approach and may be less familiar with the technology, the term "hand layup" refers to the method real craftsmen use employing a carefully done mold (female in this case) and appropriate layers of gel coat, surface veil and then the layers of glass cloth or chopped strand mat unless you want carbon fiber or Kevlar. Such a product is far superior to SMC (sheet molding compound -think Corvette) or spray up as used on mass produced items. It has a superior stiffness to weight ratio and should be less prone to cracking as well. My opinions are based on 30 + years spending time in many shops and factories employing all these materials and methods. So I have seen a lot of fine work and cheaply produced manufacturing as well. I will admit my communications skills are lacking however, but I am trying to share some important info and very much agree with others who shared info previously and it is fortunate that scoops are now already available.

Posted

Christopher, I believe Scott is referring to Chris Mintoft, the owner of Redline Components, Ltd.

https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/news/operational-statement-chris-mintoft-director-redline-components-ltd

I have experience in this area too and it seems very simple to me but I agree with Scott that it can easily result in a "hack job" on a first attempt. For anyone interested, the methods described are no hack and may be how they came up with the original scoops for the lower cost, single down draught option (which I would prefer to dual 40s on a touring car).

Posted

I only intended to infer that my amateur attempts at fiberglass would amount to a sub-par result.  I watched my father lay up fiberglass to make wings and tail sections for an aircraft at home.  he was very good at it but I remember the epoxy, the smell, fibers the mess and the commitment it takes to the process.   If I ever got involved in making fiberglass parts, it would have to be for the manufacturing of parts.  To duplicate one item, I am better off taking it to a professional who is set up for the work. 

I also learned much about Fiberglass during my dune buggy phase.  

I don't have space or place for a fiberglass project at home now.

 

@Christopher smith My apologies,  I was referring to Chris at RedLine.

@MV8 your input on this forum is always spot on and you're a guru for sure.  Thanks for your help here.  

Posted

Thanks.  Ive been able to reach him on FB in the past.  

He may get so much Email that its better to go to the social networks to get contact with the serious 7 heads. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Chris hasn't responded to me. 

He may be avoiding me because I made a Burton order for parts he worked up a quote on.

The Ukraine invasion was starting and Chris didn't have the engine stands.  I didn't want to wait.

Posted

I would not assume anything with a one-man operation. How long since he read your message? The FB msg you sent will show if and when the msg was read with a circular icon on the right side. I'd send another msg a week from the read date asking for the status.

If it hasn't been read in a couple days, I'd also send an email.

No reads or replies in a week, call.

I'd want to put my hands on the part before replying. If I don't have any and are not making them, check with my local sources.

Posted

talked to Chris M. today.

He has one original scoop he uses for casting repros.

He intends to have some made.

No promises on when.

 

He did tell me rhat he has moved to his retirement estate and will be working the "front end" of the business from there, the management side  while his son and family do the picking and fulfilling.  Chris will remain the point of contact for inquiries. 

 

 

Posted

I'd ask how many more standing orders are needed to produce the scoops "soon". You can always resell them here.

Posted (edited)

That is an enterprising idea, but I doubt there is much demand.  I expect to incur a 20% performance decrease wirh the downdraft.  I doubt many will want that.

Chris has only one original scoop and can supply the tiny global demand. I really don't want to thin out Chris's sales prospects competing If he does the investment and makes a quality item.  If he doesn't follow through and I found on original on my own, I would.  But its the same situation,  low demand and nobody would find me.  I would have to sell through a larger supplier like Redline or Demon Tweaks and the margins thin out with shipping, etc.

Edited by IamScotticus
  • 9 months later...
Posted

Hi Ian. You could try Xtra Special Sevens (U.K.) for the scoop as they also seem to make reproductions of Lotus parts.  If and when you decide to fit the top scoop to the bonnet of your car, either using your old bonnet or a new one from Arch or Xtra special 7s, advice from Bruce Robinson of Arch may help.  He advised me to install the down-draught manifold on to the engine with the carb correctly bolted on (engine in the car of course!).  Carefully lower the bonnet onto the carb with the air filter studs installed, and fasten the bonnet in place.  Gently tap the area of the bonnet that is directly over the carb with a leather or rubber mallet to provide an imprint of the studs into the underside of the ally bonnet.  Then remove the bonnet, and using the top of the air filter as a template, line up the holes in the filter top with the indentations in the underside of the bonnet, and draw around the filter top.  Allow a small bit of clearance around the hole to be cut out, but check the necessary diameter by placing the air scoop over your drawn lines to ensure that it is not excessive. Bruce also advised that Arch do not cut the hole in a new bonnet for a customer, as there are always slight differences in chassis, engine mounting brackets, and engine types (original 2737E Ford Crossflow slightly narrower block than the uprated 711M for example).   The original carb for the pre-updated crossflow was a Weber 32 DFM, later replaced with a 32/36 DGV or 32/36 DGAV with automatic choke.  There was also a 32/36 DFA or 32/36 DFAV produced by Weber (I obtained one from Dave Bean brand new) that correctly allows the throttle cable to attach to the carb in the orientation designed by Lotus for the Series 3.  The 'G' version has it attached the opposite way round.    Cheers, Will. 

  • Thanks 1

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