First day on the road

[Alex-Ks1]

All good points , as I'm reading at 2AM , the peddels pivot is totally free and fully floppy 

The outer cable had a rubber bushing it sits on at the bulk head .

There is no burr on rather end 

The CARB return spring is easy moving with little reverse pull 

The peddels  attachment is no binding fully floppy 

There's no burr at a cut end , pulled the center out and ran a small drill ti clean any burrs 

Attached to the foot feed and can It is sticky , unattached it's completely free .

Asked a guy at a farm  tractor repair this , he said get a larger diameter casing and use the old inner cable core . He said he seen this on older tractors , this fix works and the larger outer csseing uses less friction .. I have to wait 3 to 5 days for a new cable to arrive here 

 

 

[MV8]

2 hours ago, Alex-Ks1 said:

Asked a guy at a farm  tractor repair this , he said get a larger diameter casing and use the old inner cable core . He said he seen this on older tractors , this fix works and the larger outer csseing uses less friction .. I have to wait 3 to 5 days for a new cable to arrive here 

 

 

I agree with the tractor repairman. It wasn't clear what you had ordered that was "bigger".

[MV8]

7x7 is a good all around core for flexibility, friction, tensile, stretch resistance, etc.

More wires= more flexible=more friction in the housing.

Thicker=less flexible, higher capacity for less stretch (which is really the tiny gaps between the wires tightening up).

If soldering the ends versus crimping or a wedge type termination, galvanized is easier than stainless which requires an acid treatment for wetting/tinning.

 

Round or flat wire bowden housing doesn't matter if a liner is used.

 

Nylon tube is also an effective liner and the wire can be coated as well.

Preloading to 60% strength is worth the price difference so the cable won't need to be reterminated after a few days use if the cable is especially thin for the pedal loading.

 

[Alex-Ks1]

I found the problem ,,nothing I did ,, crap , junk , trash ,garbage , worthless Chi Com junk.

With the cable out on a bench , straight,  it's smooth , pit the least bend in it , and I'm saying a small radius ,it binds  not even a 10° bend .

So  I'll see what comes to me ,probley more Chi Com crap  

 

 

[toldfield]

I have used Flanders Motorcycle Company for years.   The handle quality stuff and will make up a cable for you.   They are knowledgeable and reliable.

 

http://www.flandersco.com/

 

Give them a call and see what they can do to help you out.

 

Tom

[MV8]

Could always use an oem cable too with some pedal and housing adjustment/stop mods to accept the end clips or cut a used, long oem cable and reterminate.

 

It's good that Flanders list the core for the housing. Unlike typical tolerances for most materials, the standard is that the size listed for wire rope is the minimum with the tolerances on the plus side, since they don't assume the rope will be in a conduit.

 

Edited August 20, 2022 by MV8

[Alex-Ks1]

Called an aircraft service center in our area , they make cables for light aircraft , they have to be replaced with hours use , and they can't use any Chi Com garbage FFA ruling .so I'm going there today get a core length and a slightly larger outer casing .All US made material 

I will overcome , adapt , and improvise ...... And I have my front fenders made then paint the hood and fenders 

[Alex-Ks1]

Got my new cable , works great and it's not chi com , that's why it works , no sticky peddels any more , runs even better than before 

And you can controll the carb lololol 

 I was stopped and some one came over and asked me a lot of questions, so I parked it , safer than in the middle of the street .

He wanted to know If I could do one with a automatic trans , Sure that's even easier than the five speed stick , and much more room in the peddle box area . He also asked about a 4 cylinder engine , even easier , I shot him a price and probley will never hear from him again .

Tire kickers are every where .

 

 

 

[Alex-Ks1]

So , it drives great noisy as hell ,flames shoot out of the exhaust pipes that's because of the cam size overlap, no big thing ,looks cool at night ,  and I'm doing the fenders now , I'll have them shaped and painted this week end , this photo is in the ruff , the fenders still have to be rounded on the edges ,. 

[Alex-Ks1]

Did some more work on my 7  first I installed a master clutch cylinder that lad a longer stroke , the old one was on the floor to release the clutch , re did the timing , and went for another ride , temp never got to the middle of the gauge , oil pressure stayed at 70PSI all the time .

   It ran great even at 75 it was smooth and still responding to more gas .  I'm gonna put some more miles on it then put it up for sale ,

It was to see if and how long it would take to build . Given the fact I had to do everything , rebuild the engine , trans , rear end .

Bla bla bla, paint it , do the sheet metal work , make seats , and all wiring , I can guess it would take about a month to do another one .

   The hard thing is finding NON CHI COM auto parts , you get what you pay for ,,