MV8 Posted December 20, 2022 Posted December 20, 2022 Hi Bill, if you are referring to the rolled edge toward the driver, you could roll a steel wire in, bend the scuttle to shape, then remove the wire.
IamScotticus Posted December 21, 2022 Posted December 21, 2022 Someone said the rubber is heated to be more pliable. When I last tried to put on the screen with new trim ( new screen too). I couldn't get the rubber to compress down enough to fit the 3 side screws. I didn't try the heat method. I can only assume its using a heat gun. The suggestion mentioned a caution ⚠️ about damaging any paint. My next attempt will probably involve spacing my stanchion brackets higher for more scuttle clearance. If I had 1/2 inch in there, it should go together. Its fidly.
MV8 Posted December 21, 2022 Posted December 21, 2022 Big pot of hot water (no need to boil) for the seal and some gloves. Warm kettle backup or a hair dryer. It is easy to do damage with a good heat gun. Constantly moving/waving for uniform heating.
TMRL7 Posted December 21, 2022 Posted December 21, 2022 To be honest I do not recall this being particularly difficult when I did it. I would recommend dish soap or some spray silicone to help it slide into the channel. Good luck!! Tim
Taber10 Posted December 22, 2022 Posted December 22, 2022 We had a little trouble with mine a few months back. We used the "two men and a boy" method with three of us struggling. We used a dilute soapy water as lubricant and kept at it.
Stevensonjr Posted December 22, 2022 Author Posted December 22, 2022 Ok, I found that pulling the rubber under the front leg of the triangle where the bottom front bolt actually goes thru a hole you punch in the rubber, then tightening the triangle frame bolts, will hold the rubber in place. If the rubber is not firmly by the tightened frame, it will slip out. 1
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