Lotus 7 Project Arrived

[MV8]

If it is fully welded, why braze? I have gas, stick, mig and tig setups, but I usually reach for what is the most convenient to drag out to where I'm working; Eastwoods 130 amp 110v with fluxcore wire so light (no bottle), upgraded ground clamp and an hbf automatic helmet. The flux comes off easy enough. The tig is not necessarily less heat than mig. It comes down to skill for both. Mig with shielding gas would be easiest to learn. If using a bottle, make it large as it runs out quickly and the cost is about the same to refill/exchange as a tiny bottle.

I use milwaukee angle grinders with various wire cups, grinding wheels and flap wheels, drills with carbide rotary files, and portable bandsaw with 14tpi bi-metal blade for metal work.

I use an electric 1/4 inch diegrinder with 2-3 inch cutting discs for detail work. Craftsman made high quality ones. Also handy to have a arbor to use a drill at lower speed in a pinch.

[Joe Petty]

Looks like you are getting down to business!

 

I had a new windshield cut and fitted 4-5 years ago and the shop just used a rubberized sealant.

Seems to be working fine, but I don't go out in the rain.  Come home in the rain sometimes, but I just duck down and maintain 45MPH!

 

The frame looks to be the correct shade of grey, except for some of the local repairs, so you are probably the first person to do a complete refurbish.

 

Not sure how much history you have, but always interesting to figure out why repairs were needed.

Figure most of these cars were inexpensive racers used by amateurs and those that weren't written off probably have many bruises and stories!

 

The triangular gusset plates are a racing add-on and look to be well done.

Not sure what is going on with the front fender pinch bracket.  Looks the quality of my welding, but not sure why it would have been replaced.

My roll bar rear braces are 3/4", which apparently was legal back then, but like most they anchor to the rear frame vertical bars.

 

Keep us posted and Good Luck!

 

[straightcut]

A good member here, Stevensonjr posted a write-up on his Series II restoration and reported he found a good match to the original Lotus chassis dark grey.  He said Tempo Aviation A219 - Lycoming Engine Gray was about as close to perfect as a paint match would achieve.  Unfortunately, I've found Tempo has ceased production of their spray paints.  My research has revealed Superflite has begun to offer a replacement to the Tempo paint under part #SF2100-A, Lycoming Gray.  I'll be picking up three cans tomorrow from Aero Performance Southwest in Chandler, AZ ph. 800/966-6936 - it's around $16/can.

 

Also, I haven't checked, but exact replica red seat covers with cream piping may be available from Xtra Special Sevens.  Also, they should carry the cream piping to purchase by the foot.  http://www.xtraspecialsevens.co.uk/body.html

 

I'm about to place an order for a seat kit and piping myself for a white (factory original color) '60 SII America.

[ianashdown]

1 hour ago, MV8 said:

If it is fully welded, why braze? I have gas, stick, mig and tig setups, but I usually reach for what is the most convenient to drag out to where I'm working; Eastwoods 130 amp 110v with fluxcore wire so light (no bottle), upgraded ground clamp and an hbf automatic helmet. The flux comes off easy enough. The tig is not necessarily less heat than mig. It comes down to skill for both. Mig with shielding gas would be easiest to learn. If using a bottle, make it large as it runs out quickly and the cost is about the same to refill/exchange as a tiny bottle.

 

I use milwaukee angle grinders with various wire cups, grinding wheels and flap wheels, drills with carbide rotary files, and portable bandsaw with 14tpi bi-metal blade for metal work.

I use an electric 1/4 inch diegrinder with 2-3 inch cutting discs for detail work. Craftsman made high quality ones. Also handy to have a arbor to use a drill at lower speed in a pinch.

There are a couple of answers to this I guess.  One is that I have the Nickel-Bronze Brazing setup, many years ago I put a complete new front end on my Formula Ford, so I figure the learning curve will not be too steep or long.  The other reason is the low temp nature of brazing.  I think this must be a plus for a repair to an existing frame.  I imagine if I were to send this to Arch Motors they would use brazing for the repair.

 

TIG would be my next choice, again because I used to be quite good at it, but also because it is so controllable it should allow for the least heat.  The problem is the cost.  I’ve had quotes of $2800-$5000 to upgrade the power, add $2500-$3500 for a semi decent welder, another grand for additional supplies etc., it adds up to quite a sum.  I’ve never used or liked MIG so I’m not going to start now.    In all likelihood this is my second to last restoration so it doesn’t seem like a smart spend.

 

I have all the death-wheels, grinders etc that I need, it’s just a decent fixture and a delivery of steel tubing and off to the races!  Not literally.

 

Ian

[SENC]

1 hour ago, straightcut said:

A good member here, Stevensonjr posted a write-up on his Series II restoration and reported he found a good match to the original Lotus chassis dark grey.  He said Tempo Aviation A219 - Lycoming Engine Gray was about as close to perfect as a paint match would achieve.  Unfortunately, I've found Tempo has ceased production of their spray paints.  My research has revealed Superflite has begun to offer a replacement to the Tempo paint under part #SF2100-A, Lycoming Gray.  I'll be picking up three cans tomorrow from Aero Performance Southwest in Chandler, AZ ph. 800/966-6936 - it's around $16/can.

 

Also, I haven't checked, but exact replica red seat covers with cream piping may be available from Xtra Special Sevens.  Also, they should carry the cream piping to purchase by the foot.  http://www.xtraspecialsevens.co.uk/body.html

 

I'm about to place an order for a seat kit and piping myself for a white (factory original color) '60 SII America.

I can attest to the seats from XtraSpecialSevens.  The PO had Mick make entirely new seats for my Seven, they are superb.

[ianashdown]

Thank you for the lead.  I’ll be needing all new seat upholstery, but I want to do all the frame work first as I think the tube that I’ll be adding across the rear of the floor might necessitate trimming an inch or so from the sear base.  I think I’m also going to add some 1” x 1/2” triangulation under the seats and I’ll need to check the fit of the base.  I’m OK with raising the seat up 1/2” for the additional strength.

 

Do XtraSpecialSevens also make hoods, tonneau’s and trunk covers?

 

Thank you,

 

Ian

[SENC]

7 hours ago, ianashdown said:

Thank you for the lead.  I’ll be needing all new seat upholstery, but I want to do all the frame work first as I think the tube that I’ll be adding across the rear of the floor might necessitate trimming an inch or so from the sear base.  I think I’m also going to add some 1” x 1/2” triangulation under the seats and I’ll need to check the fit of the base.  I’m OK with raising the seat up 1/2” for the additional strength.

 

Do XtraSpecialSevens also make hoods, tonneau’s and trunk covers?

 

Thank you,

 

Ian

I don't recall, but if not you can get them from Chris Mintoft at Redline.  He had a tonneau made for me that I'm very happy with.

[Joe Petty]

Here is a picture of the crossbar I had installed for the seat belt anchors and a seat cushion.

 

I got the covers for the seats and back from Tony Ingram in Santa Barbara.

At the time, I did not know the seat cushions would come with the notches for the seat belt anchors.

I guess this crossbar is a common improvement!

 

Good Luck - Joe

[MV8]

18 hours ago, ianashdown said:

Do XtraSpecialSevens also make hoods, tonneau’s and trunk covers?

The site says those items are "made to order".

 

 

 

[straightcut]

As a follow-up, I did pick up the three cans of Superflite SF2100-A Lycoming Grey ($14.95/can) from Aero Performance Southwest (Owned by Aircraft Spruce).  I sprayed a piece of carboard and held it up to the dark grey on my '62 Super Seven and it appears to be a match!  I had to strip down several layers to get to what I believe is the original chassis paint. 

 

After many calls and e-mails over the past month, I'm excited to have finally found pre-mixed paint - avoiding the need to tow my chassis to a paint shop for a color match.  I hope this is a help to others!

[IamScotticus]

can you take a sample to one of the hardware stores with a digital color matching code machine?

Edited August 8, 2023 by IamScotticus

[MV8]

Check out rustoleum professional greys at home depot. It looks the same on my screen.

[straightcut]

1 hour ago, MV8 said:

Check out rustoleum professional greys at home depot. It looks the same on my screen.

I looked at a large Ace Hardware at their selection - one was too light and the other too dark.  Also, there's an Ace brand dark grey that's a little too light.  

 

I'm happy I found a match with Superflite SF2100-A.  

[IamScotticus]

I can understand why you would want a color match, for authenticity.   But I doubt even Lotus paid much attention to the shades of grey the chassis were painted,  as long as it was a shade that would reveal cracks.  I wouldn't be surprised if all the various chassis builders used different shades. 

Edited August 9, 2023 by IamScotticus

[ianashdown]

My approach with color matching is, if I’m powder-coating, is to find one that is close to the desired color, then get paint matched to the powder-coat.  For a race car I choose the racers-tape first, then match the paint.  
 

In this case I’m not sure powder-coat will be appropriate, so I appreciate the lead for the correct colors.

 

Ian

[IamScotticus]

My chassis and suspension is a mess because of powdercoating.  All over the thing there are areas I need to sand down and recover.  It will never be done right until a full tear down is done. 

Paint is so easy to repair and re-apply.  

[ianashdown]

I think that powder coating may fall in to the category of over-restoring for this car, and I don’t think I’ll be going that route.  I have spray equipment and will probably buy a cheap 10’ x 20’ easy-up to use as a temporary spray booth.  I’m not very good at spraying so my finish should be in line with factory original.

 

Ian

[IamScotticus]

After paint, will you apply one of the Cavity rust inhibitiors like Fluid Film or Cosmoline?

I have a long list of candidates if you're interested. 

[ianashdown]

Yes I plan to.  Also there is some kind of foam made by 3M I believe that stop everything rattling around in the tubes.  I don’t think rust will be a big problem here as is dry, but for the next owner, in many, many years . . . 
 

I’m also trying to come up with a good plan for a flat base for a chassis fixture and welcome any suggestions.

 

Ian

Edited August 10, 2023 by ianashdown

[MV8]

"Boiled" linseed oil works well and the traditional choice for protecting the inside of tube frame aircraft.

A table is good for layout but you are not trying to align new tubes but hold when the tube is removed/repaired. You just need a jig frame to resist chassis warping and also not be in the way of final welding. You could weld a 1x2 11ga frame to clamp directly, weld a doubler/bridge tube to the jig frame on the leg against the tube to be replaced, then cut out the jig tube against the tube being replaced for access.

 

The clamps can be pipe with the right id for the chassis tube od, split with a pinch bolt to press against the cut away half of the pipe to prevent crushing/damage to the chassis tube including longitudinal clamps on the vertical close to the node/tube cluster to counter expansion and contraction from the heating and cooling.