Lotus 7 Project Arrived

[anduril3019]

1 minute ago, ianashdown said:

Hi,

 

The rear axle is Standard 10, I even was provided with a spare.  I’ll check the bolt pattern on both but I think they will be Triumph, both ends.

 

I’m not sure what look I’ll be going for, I quite like steel wheels and hub caps for a very period look on S2’s, I do have some steel bolt on Lotus wheels and hub cap from my Elan project and could use them, or a set of minilite style wheels would look good too.

 

Ian

Elan wheels with hubcaps is a good look on an S2. My original post said 4" PCD for Triumph, corrected to 3 3/4" which is what your Standard axle and Elan wheels should be.

[ianashdown]

2 hours ago, JohnCh said:

And not to derail the thread, but is that an Elan project I spot in the first photo?

 

Thanks,

John

Well spotted!  Yes, I am also working on a ‘66 S2 Elan Convertible.  Still just at the paint scraping stage, and lots to do for a total body off rebuild.

 

Ian

[ianashdown]

1 minute ago, anduril3019 said:

Elan wheels with hubcaps is a good look on an S2. My original post said 4" PCD for Triumph, corrected to 3 3/4" which is what your Standard axle and Elan wheels should be.

I’ll check later today and report back.

 

BTW, where does your ‘name’ , Anduril, come from?  I interviewed for a company with that name recently.  Didn’t get the job! 

 

Ian

[Christopher smith]

Sure sounds like you are going through quite a decision process, much like mine years ago when I imported my 1959 Series 1 that already had fiberglass clamshells and nose but no rear wings, petrol tank, engine or trans. Otherwise pretty stock. Series 1 had Sprite type rears and those tiny drum brakes up front that I replaced with Triumph GT6 discs. My 1500 Cortina GT motor was a tight fit particularly because the previous owner in the UK had trashed the unusual 1300 Alfa twincam and trans but wanted to go Ford power and welded in a mounting structure. I just developed a leak in my concentric slave cylinder so this should be fun fixing. Good luck with your project.

[anduril3019]

7 hours ago, ianashdown said:

I’ll check later today and report back.

 

BTW, where does your ‘name’ , Anduril, come from?  I interviewed for a company with that name recently.  Didn’t get the job! 

 

Ian

The screen name is a Lord of the Rings reference. Anduril, or The Flame of the West, is the sword wielded by Aragorn in The Return of the King. A fitting name for a defense company.

[ianashdown]

I wondered! 
 

Cool company and they do some cool stuff. I’d rather not work in the weapons business though. 
 

Ian

[MV8]

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005421

[ianashdown]

12 hours ago, anduril3019 said:

My original post said 4" PCD for Triumph, corrected to 3 3/4" which is what your Standard axle and Elan wheels should be.

I just measured the bolt P.C.D. and can confirm that both front and rear are 3.75”.

 

Decisions on wheel are way down the road . . .

 

Ian

SoCal

[SENC]

21 hours ago, ianashdown said:

Hi,

 

The rear axle is Standard 10, I even was provided with a spare.  I’ll check the bolt pattern on both but I think they will be Triumph, both ends.

 

I’m not sure what look I’ll be going for, I quite like steel wheels and hub caps for a very period look on S2’s, I do have some steel bolt on Lotus wheels and hub cap from my Elan project and could use them, or a set of minilite style wheels would look good too.

 

Ian

There is a scan of the Standard 10 manual section on the rear axle in the downloads section, should you need it.

[ianashdown]

Thank you!  I will go find that. 
 

I’m not sure if I’ll do the axle work or send it out, but it’ll be good to have. 
 

Ian

[ianashdown]

I’ve been going through the parts and trying to figure out what parts I have and what parts I’m missing.  Fortunately the former list is considerably longer than the latter!  There certainly are some missing items which will have to be found, and some that I have that will need to be replaced.  Who are the the best suppliers for S2 7 parts in the US and/or the UK?  Is it the same suppliers as for my ‘66 Elan?

I’m still formulating the plan for the chassis.  There is damage that needs to be repaired and I do want to add some reinforcements, add some triangulation etc.  The question is will it be better to send it to Arch (even though they didn’t build it originally) and have them fix everything (some new paneling too), do the work myself or is there a US fabricator that has a track record with these frames?

Some of the paneling is in surprisingly decent shape, some is in almost useable condition, and some is just rough!  If I send the frame to Arch the solution is simple.  The other options are not so straightforward, and it depends on if the finished objective is fully painted, part aluminum and part painted.  The hood has some damage that probably prevents it being aluminum.  The scuttle I think could be but it will have the scars of 62 years, I’m OK with that!  The rear panel is quite straight and damage free, but has been painted.  I’m going to try and remove the paint and see how the aluminum looks before making a decision.  The side panels are rough and will need to be replaced.

There’s lots to think about, plans to be made etc. but that’s all part of the fun isn’t it?  Isn’t it?

[SENC]

Your Elan suppliers DBE and RDE are both sources to reach out to, though they have fewer Seven bits.  Tony Ingram is also a good stateside supplier.  Chris Mintoft at Redline and Mick Beveridge at xtraspecialsevens are at the top of my list in the UK, then all the other usuals for the Elan.  Having said that, I've also had to spend a fair amount of time determining original source vehicle and haunting their forums (Anglia, Triumph, Standard) to find leads on bits.

 

As to paint vs aluminum... a prior owner of my 65 stripped the body and bonnet.  It looks fantastic, but it is a beast to polish and, I'm told, to maintain.  I did a comprehensive, wings off polish about 18 months ago and am trying to pay attention to how long I'm happy with it.  I suspect I will paint it (back to original) at some point.  If I was at a point where I had to choose one or the other, I'd paint for sure.

[MV8]

Sounds like you don't want to do a full resto. I'd tape the holes and fill the rails with metal prep/phosphorous and let it sit a few days before draining to dry, followed by the same process with boiled linseed oil, fill the old rivet holes with a mig and grind flat so if the new holes will not need to be exactly where the old ones were and if they happen to be, the rivets will hold. When filling close to a brazed joint, wrap it with a wet rag just in case. I'd start with a cold chassis close to the joints, working away, pausing and alternating to keep the peak heat down and prevent potential warping with thin wall tube. Similar to welding thin sheet steel.

Green scotchbrite pads applied with wd40 (rubbed longitudinally only) make a nice brushed finish that is low maintenance and can hide a degree of imperfection.

Edited June 7, 2023 by MV8

[IamScotticus]

Get the pannels from Arch.

Do the rest here.

Another S2 repanneling said his rivet holes matched!

Arch may not be able to make Lotus length bonnets, I would call about that.  Cats run an inch shorter.

[IamScotticus]

Ian,  can we gave a close up of that medallion on the tunnel?

[anduril3019]

1 hour ago, IamScotticus said:

Ian,  can we gave a close up of that medallion on the tunnel?

I’ll 2nd that. I was going to ask the same thing! Looks like a coffee can lid or something like that. 

[ianashdown]

1 hour ago, IamScotticus said:

Ian,  can we gave a close up of that medallion on the tunnel?

I’ll take one.  You’ll be underwhelmed!

 

Ian

SoCal

[ianashdown]

5 minutes ago, anduril3019 said:

I’ll 2nd that. I was going to ask the same thing! Looks like a coffee can lid or something like that. 

Something like that . . .

 

Ian

[ianashdown]

1 hour ago, MV8 said:

Sounds like you don't want to do a full resto. I'd tape the holes and fill the rails with metal prep/phosphorous and let it sit a few days before draining to dry, followed by the same process with boiled linseed oil, fill the old rivet holes with a mig and grind flat so if the new holes will not need to be exactly where the old ones were and if they happen to be, the rivets will hold. When filling close to a brazed joint, wrap it with a wet rag just in case. I'd start with a cold chassis close to the joints, working away, pausing and alternating to keep the peak heat down and prevent potential warping with thin wall tube. Similar to welding thin sheet steel.

Green scotchbrite pads applied with wd40 (rubbed longitudinally only) make a nice brushed finish that is low maintenance and can hide a degree of imperfection.

Hi,

 

It needs a full ‘rebuild’, some parts need a full restoration.  Some parts are in really surprisingly good condition and just need a good clean - years of Arizona dust!  The chassis need a fair bit of work.  There are missing sections, some that are damaged, a few that have been added that are just crap!  The roll hoop for example; I think it was made of gas pipe as I found some threads on on end of a diagonal!  Sawzall time!

 

Being kept in a very dry environment has definitely been kind to this car, there is very little serious rust.  It won’t get much more here in California.

 

I have TIG and Nickel Bronze Brazing with Gasfluxer so I can find the right process for each job.  The floor needs to be replaced, and I’m thinking I can take the time to match drill from the original. 
 

I have used the scotchbright and WD40 trick for years, we used to keep the aluminum monocoques looking good this way.  I like to use either the grey or white pads though.

 

I’m still formulating the plan and what the target is to be, but I think it will be a very true S2 resto, so it looks like a well kept 62/3 year old car.  Making some new parts look old will be part of the challenge!  I will make a few practical, but sympathetic, upgrades.  Front brakes are an obvious choice.  Slightly wider wheels/tires, maybe alloy wheels, electronic ignition are likely choices too.

 

This car clearly had some part of its life in some level of competition.  I’ve found numerous vintage style safety harnesses.  Old and dry and crusty!  I plan to do some strengthening of the frame and will include some proper anchors for a seat belt system.

 

It’s a journey, and I’m still choosing the direction!  Taking inventory and getting ready to make a start!

 

Ian

[Christopher smith]

I can send the "SCCA approved" Lotus drawing of the front frame area modifications. I assume some of our very racers in the USA found that cornering loads with wide slicks cracked the front frame members when way more than design loads were applied. They consist of 4 tube diagonals nicely placed as 3/4 inch round tubing. Pretty easy with the bare frame. I also added a couple more since my Series 1 was designed with a stressed member full floor pan all the way from the very back up and around the engine bay with appropriate cut outs below the diff and oil pan areas. I opted for a shorter floor pan similar to Series 2 (nothing in the engine bay) with higher strength aluminium for most but a 2024 stainless steel section across under the driver/passenger butt area. Highest strength aircraft "Cherry" rivets used throughout. By the way, Aircraft Spruce is a great place to find strong bolts and many other items and I would guess paint primer suited to aluminium.