MV8 Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 Your air horns are longer than most. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 You'll need an adaptor like this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/276306378622?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=276306378622&targetid=1645685074288&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9010076&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685074288&abcId=9312979&merchantid=6481494&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT14ddC4Lq5zxKU9JJdwuQqcw_Yk-0PmZ8cwOyi3l2BpIdXOi5jyaBxoCOdEQAvD_BwE I agree with JBCollier's recommendation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 Well, I can’t try it on your car but this gets everywhere for me: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 Unisyns block air flow and disrupt the operation of the carb. This makes it difficult to use as the real reading is only shown for a few milliseconds before the carb starts faltering. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 13 Author Share Posted June 13 The concept of the Unisync does not block the air flow but with our small engines you have to close the throat so far down that it effectively does choke the airflow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 I think JB knows how it works . Looking at your pics again, despite the longer horns, it looks like there is just enough clearance for the unisyn base between the front horn and the wing. The tube rotates on the unisyn base and should always be vertical in use. The elbow to fit the other type of air flow meter appears to take up as much space as the unisyn base. A vacuum guage (with adjustable damper/restriction) connected to the unisyn base instead of the pellet tube may be more sensitive (less choking needed to provide an indication) and more accurate. A vacuum port between the carb and head would be much more effective and without choking. I'd either fit 1/4" carb spacers with vacuum ports or drill and tap the runners for standard, weber vacuum take-off fittings designed for the newer carbs, then add vac caps or plug the holes with screws when not needed. Quad vac gauge sets are very reasonable and let you see all the cylinders at the same time, unchoked. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 Bought mine in 1976. Used it for nigh on half a century, literally on hundreds of vehicles. Thanks for explaining how it works and how it doesn’t block air flow while it does block air flow… actually you might have to go over that bit again. (insert eye roll) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 For balance it shouldn't matter much. For measuring volume, restrictions might have to be adjusted for, if they aren't already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdWills Posted October 22 Share Posted October 22 Just a note on the bolt type for the water pump pulley (and fan blade attachment fitted by Ford on some of their older Kent engined vehicles). The pulley hub may be threaded for metric bolts not Imperial. A Quinton Hazell manufactured water pump on my 711M engine has a metric thread. It requires metric bolts M8-16. Mine are 8.8 grade nickel/zinc coated, 1/2 inches long (slightly longer if a fan blade is attached). Burton carry a new QH water pump on their site and similarly advise that the required bolts are M8. Will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now